Small Anderson connectors - is there a trick I'm missing?

[Martinjmpr]

I decided I wanted to hook the fridge up to my power box using the small Anderson connectors and a 12v cigarette-lighter sized socket.

So I ordered this from Amazon and replaced one of the 12v power outlets on my power box with it:

Amazon.com: Powerwerx PanelPole, Panel Mount Housing for Two Anderson Powerpole Connectors with a Weather Resistant Cover: Everything Else

Buy Powerwerx PanelPole, Panel Mount Housing for Two Anderson Powerpole Connectors with a Weather Resistant Cover: Generators & Portable Power - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Also ordered a set of Anderson connectors with the crimp-on connectors

Amazon.com: Anderson Powerpole Connectors 10 Pair Genuine: Electronics

Amazon.com: Anderson Powerpole Connectors 10 Pair Genuine: Electronics

www.amazon.com

So my thought was I'd put an Anderson connector on the end of the 12v fridge plug (previously I had cut off the 12v cig lighter plug in favor of two ring connectors that went to the possts on my power box. Very secure, but not quick to connect or disconnect.)

Well, I replaced one of the 12v power outlets with the double Anderson connector (although only the top set of connectors is hooked up.)

So far so good. But then I tried crimping the Anderson connectors onto the wire and it seems like the connection is very weak. If I move the wire at all it cuts the power. I've now crimped the positive connector on twice and I'm having the same issue.

Is there a trick to crimping these on? At this point I'm tempted to just go back to ring terminals.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Can you snap a photo of the terminals themselves and maybe your suspect crimp?

The small size PowerPoles can be one of three possible sizes and I would like to see what Powerwerx and the Amazon seller actually sent you.

The range of wire sizes is

• 15 amp contacts (PP15) are recommended for 20-16 gauge wire
• 30 amp contacts (PP30) are recommended for 14-12 gauge wire
• 45 amp contacts (PP45) are recommended for 10 gauge wire

All three terminals fit in the same so-called small PowerPole plastic housing.

When you crimp they should be a snug fit without a doubt. If the wire on your fridge cable is exceptionally small (maybe an undersized 20AWG, Chinese manufacturers aren't always spot on with AWG, if you follow my drift) you may have to strip it long and fold it in half to double its thickness.

 

[Chris Boyd]

Sounds like you might be using a smaller gauge than is recommended with the 15A crimps.

Strip a about 50 or 75 percent more than the depth of the crimp connection and fold the wire over,and then insert. This will give you a bit more mechanical bite for the crimp.

I crimp once, then flip and crimp so I get a crimp on both sides of the insert. I use a ratcheting crimped and sometimes it just takes two crimps.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Also, have you made sure the terminal itself has also completely snapped into the housing? You may have to *gently* use a small pick or screwdriver to press the terminal fully in. Andersen makes a tool to do this that makes working with small wire easier.

With larger gauges you can use the wire itself but with the small wire you set it in the tool such that the wire is cradled with the butt end of the terminal flush to the front of the tool. Then when you push you're pushing on the terminal and pulling the wire in with it, if that makes sense.

 

[verdesard0g]

I always solder anderson terminals, but gotta be careful and not be sloppy.

 

[Martinjmpr]

Thanks for all the input. The wire on the fridge plug completely fills the "barrel" of the connector so I don't know what the issue is. I did have some difficulty inserting the contact into the plastic plug, I think one of those connector tools would probably help a lot and make for an easier connection.

After going through a couple of crimp on contacts and still not getting a good electrical connection, I decided to go back to ring terminals. I may try with the Anderson connectors again in the future but for now I need something that works, all the time, with no chance of coming disconnected so the ring terminals will do that for now.

At least I still have the Anderson connector port on the side of the power box now so if I get something else that uses Anderson connectors I should be able to power it.

 

[jonyjoe101]

I been using the xt60 connectors on my fridge, that would work better then the ring terminals. But you would have to solder them but they make a solid connection. You can get 10 pair connectors for about 10 dollars. They can handle up to 60 amps, so a 6 amp fridge is no big deal for them. The max wire size for xt60 is 12 gauge. For the xt90 you can go up to 10 gauge.
Powerpoles are good but are on the premiun side of connectors.

This is my fuse box, I use xt60 for everything.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

I been using the xt60 connectors on my fridge, that would work better then the ring terminals. But you would have to solder them but they make a solid connection. You can get 10 pair connectors for about 10 dollars. They can handle up to 60 amps, so a 6 amp fridge is no big deal for them. The max wire size for xt60 is 12 gauge. For the xt90 you can go up to 10 gauge.
Powerpoles are good but are on the premiun side of connectors.

This is my fuse box, I use xt60 for everything.
View attachment 629429

Is that made out of a cake pan?

 

[slomatt]

What type of crimp tool are you using? The small Anderson connectors are widely used in ham radio and in my experience it really helps to use the crimp tool specific to these connectors. When I've used a standard crimp tool the wire either was not solidly connected (as you experienced), or the connector became misshapen and didn't fit into the housing When I've tried soldering the connectors it worked a bit better, but often it prevented the two connectors from completely engaging (no click).

Once I started using the proper crimp tool I've had a 100% success rate with a variety of wire sizes. At this point I have multiple Anderson connectors on both trucks (used to connect my fridge, ham radio, etc) and haven't had a single failure.

Here's the tool I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L85YMDJ

 

[DaveInDenver]

Once I started using the proper crimp tool I've had a 100% success rate with a variety of wire sizes.

Can't say that they are proprietary crimpers but the proper crimps do look unique anyway if for no other reason than they have long barrel bodies, probably twice as long as typical crimps.

The 3 options for terminals, the left two are the 15A and 30A and referred to as closed barrel. They can be crimped or soldered according to Anderson with the caveat AFAIK to do either but not both (good general rule anyway).

The one on the right is the 45A and is known as an open barrel which can only be crimped properly.

I have crimper dies for all three of the PP15/45 terminals as well as PP75/SB50 so haven't soldered them in ages. To my eye the proper crimpers are a variation on an "F" crimp. So any tool that can make up Molex, Tyco, Deutsch or similar terminals can probably be used in a pinch.

Closed barrel crimp:

Open barrel crimp:

 

[Martinjmpr]

FWIW this is the crimping tool I'm using:

Amazon.com: HAPDUX HS-8 Ratchet Terminal Crimping Tool Japanese Style Plier Crimper for Non-Insulated Terminals(Point Type) 16-8AWG: Home & Kitchen

Buy HAPDUX HS-8 Ratchet Terminal Crimping Tool Japanese Style Plier Crimper for Non-Insulated Terminals(Point Type) 16-8AWG: Crimpers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I normally use the smallest tooth on that for crimping these connectors.

I'm pretty sure the terminals I'm using are the 15A size (far left on the photo Dave posted above.)

The terminals seem to crimp on OK, I think the issue I was having was that after I crimped it on, and then tried to push the terminal into the plastic block, it would encounter resistance when I hit the little spring inside and then when I shoved the connector in, the wire would twist inside the block and result in a loose connection. Perhaps having a connector tool like the one pictured above would make it easier to push the connectors in far enough to "snap in" to place.

In any case, the ring connectors are not a quick on/off but since the battery box sits in the back of the truck, as does the fridge, it is probably better to just leave it that way. I do have a spare 12v power cord for the fridge with the conventional cig lighter plug in it as well, if, for example, I had to move the fridge to a different vehicle and didn't want to move the battery box with it.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Yeah Martin, it's your crimpers.

Yours use an anvil to punch into the terminal and smash it. This is an acceptable way to crimp some types of terminals designed to do this but not Andersons.



You need a Molex-type, known as an "F" crimp. See how the dies have two shoulders that roll the crimp?






BTW, that example on the left is actually a poor crimp. Getting the insulation under the crimp isn't good. Just clearly showed the shape.

One of the reason for this is so that the profile of the crimp remains round. If you flatten the terminal like with an anvil it won't fit in the plastic connector (housing) right, just as you're discovering.

FWIW, this is what Anderson specific crimp dies look like.

 

[Hosalabad]

What type of crimp tool are you using? The small Anderson connectors are widely used in ham radio and in my experience it really helps to use the crimp tool specific to these connectors. When I've used a standard crimp tool the wire either was not solidly connected (as you experienced), or the connector became misshapen and didn't fit into the housing When I've tried soldering the connectors it worked a bit better, but often it prevented the two connectors from completely engaging (no click).

Once I started using the proper crimp tool I've had a 100% success rate with a variety of wire sizes. At this point I have multiple Anderson connectors on both trucks (used to connect my fridge, ham radio, etc) and haven't had a single failure.

Here's the tool I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L85YMDJ

I recommend the Anderson crimpers as well. I've never had a miss with them.

 

[cruxarche]

TRIcrimp, the best Powerpole crimping tool for 15, 30 and 45 amp contacts

Designed by Powerwerx to provide a positive crimp for Anderson Power Products 15, 30 & 45 amp contacts in a single tool. The ratcheting mechanism guarantees a complete crimp every time. A built-in contact positioner holds the contact during crimping.

powerwerx.com

This is the tool I use. It is not exactly cheap. I use PP for all my 12v connections, even many that do not strictly need a quick disconnect option. The Voltage drop is minimal. I use them on all my ham equipment, fridge, lighting, pretty much anything 12v. Years later and probably over a hundred connections I have never had an anderson PP fail due to a crimp.

 

[burleyman]

I apply a dab of electrically conducting anti-oxidizing grease to the connector to help slide the connector past the overlapped snapping point.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-1-oz-Ox-Gard-Anti-Oxidant-Compound/4514334?cm_mmc=shp-_-c-_-prd-_-elc-_-google-_-lia-_-106-_-electricalaccessories-_-4514334-_-0&placeholder=null&&ds_a_cid=112741100&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5bz-BRD-ARIsABjT4njMYhRELIfrlQJzIv6EBHOVaJb4QEMwWP2f8nvv44e-1RYDOMd1Bt4aAki4EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds