skinning a lid

[BigDaveZJ]

Planning on making a lid for my M416 once I finish up some projects on the Jeep and am curious how you guys have actually skinned your lids. I'm planning on a 1"x2" exterior frame (2" vertical) and 1"x1" cross bars with a 16-18 gauge sheet across the top. Are you guys just cutting the sheet to the same size as the frame, welding it and then grinding smooth or are you doing something else??

 

[loki646]

I'm at that same point too, but I can tell you that 16 gauge is overkill and pretty heavy. I'm looking into alternatives to a sheet of 20-24 gauge. Weight is my issue. The lid is already framed with 11 gauge 1x1 and 1"x2"s.

I'm considering 1/8" think acrylic/Lexan, fiberglass, and even PVC sheet. But my search just started last night so I'm curious to see what other responses you get on this thread.

 

[ntsqd]

I'll suggest first that the lid frame have a slight pitch to it for drainage. I'd think that 1"-2" taller in the center would be enough. Make it a gentle radius at the pitch line if using a composite for the skin. Most large steel vendors can roll those straight tubes into a arc of whatever large radius you might want.

Steel can be welded on, anything else will have to riveted, bonded, or riveted & bonded on (what I'd do). For bonding I'd look into the Silkaflex products and 3M's VHB tapes.

0.03" thick aluminum is available in rolls for building circle track race car interior 'tin.' This comes clad in various colors, so painting may not even be necessary.

"Seaboard" was one FRP panel trade name that I ran across years ago. This was a panel like the current smooth sided RV's use available in various sized sheets. No idea what current availability or trade names are out there.

 

[StumpXJ]

My frame is 1x1 11 gauge, and is skinned with 16 gauge steel. Its a little heavy, but I like being able to stand on it (310 pounds) in any spot and not worry about it. Plus I have my RTT mounted to it. I cut the sheet to the same size as the frame, but left it about 1/4" smaller around the perimeter. I stitch welded the entire thing, starting from the center on the cross braces, about every 10 inches or so. Ground them lightly to knock down any edges. Works great for me.

 

[gasman]

my lid is 14 gauge the end caps are 12.. i have no frame.. the strenght is in the folds.. i do have one cross bar on the underside just because.. i can stand on it no problem .. my tent is mounted on top it weighs about 160#

 

[Mayne]

I'll suggest first that the lid frame have a slight pitch to it for drainage. I'd think that 1"-2" taller in the center would be enough. Make it a gentle radius at the pitch line if using a composite for the skin. Most large steel vendors can roll those straight tubes into a arc of whatever large radius you might want.

Steel can be welded on, anything else will have to riveted, bonded, or riveted & bonded on (what I'd do). For bonding I'd look into the Silkaflex products and 3M's VHB tapes.

0.03" thick aluminum is available in rolls for building circle track race car interior 'tin.' This comes clad in various colors, so painting may not even be necessary.

"Seaboard" was one FRP panel trade name that I ran across years ago. This was a panel like the current smooth sided RV's use available in various sized sheets. No idea what current availability or trade names are out there.

I googled the VHB tape, and like the idea over riveting aluminum to steel. Although I can't figure out which type should be used. Foam core?

Mayne

 

[Toolman]

I used 18g and a 1X2 frame.. RTT mounted on top and is very durable. I had the metal shop MK make cut and bend it for me... tacked it in place, welded on the front and back... primer and bed liner...DONE !!!!
It made a huge difference in clean up when I got home last time... everything was clean..:wings: