Ski Bum Truck V2.0, F450 Rough Road RV

java

Expedition Leader
For sealing roof penetrations, consider using polyurethane concrete crack filler. It sticks to anything, handles UV well and never completely hardens. Another option is to steal a page out of the marine world's handbook and use butyl tape. I have never really had great luck with silicone, caulking, RTV and that kind of thing. It works for a while then fails. If you don't want something to EVER come off and you need to seal it up really well, just mix up some 30 minute epoxy. It is sandable, paintable and can be UV stable.

For a ladder, I like the extendable/collapsable aluminum ladders and would prefer it to having something mounted to the truck, for several reasons. 'Tis a bit of a hassle to pack and unpack, when compared to something permanently mounted. There are certainly advantages and disadvantages to both.

A rip-stop nylon sheet can be laid perpendicular to the house and staked out or left to hang. When the roof packs with snow, pull the left side over the right side or vice versa = snow dumps in a matter of seconds, no shoveling required. Fans/vents could pose a problem with the tarp, but if your roof is covered in a foot of snow, I presume the same issue would be present.

If you have the cash, throw in a pair of Aussie lockers. They 'unlock' off-throttle to allow some slip whilst cornering, lock 100% under throttle and require zero maintenance. Additionally, there are no air lines or wires to run to the pumpkin.

In regards to heating, consider electric, underfloor heating mats (12VDC - 230VAC depending on output desired) from a company like Thermosoft. A thermostat can be tied to your existing system to cycle the mats off and on, maintaining a perfect 75*F temperature in your battery bank, assuming you have the heating capacity and insulation to retain the heat.

If the pneumatic cylinder does not work out for you, consider an extendable, carbon pole from a company like DragonPlate. They are lightweight, strong and impervious to road salt, mud, etc.
I used Sikafelx poly on the roof last time, it didn't last well. This stuff is supposed to be bullet proof. So far it seems to be holding up. Slippery as balls in the snow though.

I don't want to have to stow a ladder, they do work fine, I just would prefer fixed in place/no set up.

I like the sheet idea! I'm not sure I would be strong enough to pull though, we are talking hundred (thousands wet?) of pounds of snow.

The rear is LSD, nut sure aussie even makes one for a 110. I just need a little more friction modifier in it I think. Not a terrible idea for the front though! I know its available for a D60

If I were to build another truck, it will have radiant floor heat throughout. One thing I REALLY wish I had done. It will be hydronic though. I did look at adding the electric ones, but its a hassle with my floor already in. For heating the battery or future lithium, I have a PID controller and silicone heating pads in the garage..... Just have not gotten to that project yet!

Same thing with the ladder on the cylinder, I don't want something I have to store and set up. I looked at the carbon poles, but its another chore, especially when you move often. My antenna works pretty well in the down position even. But I don't know how it will hold up long term. Its a ~1/2" stainless shaft. Antenna is 6lbs IIRC




Another tip on the cell service. If you didn't already know, its common for towers to shunt you to a frequency which results in poorer throughput. In remote areas channel 13 (around 700mhz) often has the best throughput, especially when you have trees or poor line of sight. In more crowded areas changing channel width or moving to a higher (less crowded) frequency can give you better throughput. The channel with the best strength isn't always the one with the best throughput. Being able to lock your router to a specific channel can significantly improve performance.

Can you adjust your routers transmit power? In many cases you will have great downstream signal/noise ratio, but upstream is so slow that many web applications won't function properly.

Interesting on the bands, I didn't think about that! I think I can switch and force whatever band is desired on it. I will have to play around in the settings.

I am not sure on the power.
 

java

Expedition Leader
How about those cascading projects? :********: I wanted to add a tank level sensor to my Color Control, the little icon says "no tanks" had stared at me long enough. I have a SeeLevel gauge on it, JUNK. Stick on sensor that doesn't stick on, is inaccessible etc. It sucks.

So Victron makes a resistive sensor adaptor for the color control. Easy, it uses the can bus connection and I have a free slot there. Order the stupidly over priced adapter. Add tank sensor (KUS REALLY nice piece for the price). Run the wires, which is a major **********, they are at the back of a 48" deep, 9" wide drawer. I cant reach it, and I don't fit in that hole. But the wires are run, ends terminated, hook it up and nothing. After some googling, Well it turns out the color control does not power the can bus network. you need another over priced widget to power it. ******** this ********. For a few bucks more I can get the Cerbo, and the touchscreen. It has way more capability than the color control, including built in tank monitoring for like 6 tanks?

Returned the over priced adapter, ordered a cerbo. Oh but wait, the touch screen is a different size than the color control, of course it is.... And I have a cutout sized for the color control. Some more googling says they make an adapter. OK fine. Order that too.

So all the connections are at the back of the color control. The cerbo is a bigger box.... So I will need to re route all this ********.
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Sender in the tank, set in 3m 4000. Its all stainless, fuel and water rated. And the stupid adapter thing I immediately ripped back out.
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Big ass hole.
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And the adapter, the bezel is so ************** huge. Well that wont work either. (and I didn't set up an acct when I ordered it so I cant return it now....)
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Fawk it. Sheet of abs, make my own damn adapter.
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Mounted the cerbo on the other wall, re routed all the cables. Meh. Its a little messy. Oh and why do they put ************** blinking LED's on everything?? Electrical tape to the rescue.
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Well it works and I can see my water level. Now to run a wire to the propane tank :********:
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java

Expedition Leader
Glad you mentioned the SeeLevel as I was thinking of going that route. Sounds like I can save my money on that.
If it's on a spot You can access it might be fine...... but I could not get it to stay stuck to my tank

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You mentioned running a wire to the propane tank. Are you able to get the Touch GX to read propane tank levels? If so what kind of sensor does that require?
 

java

Expedition Leader
You mentioned running a wire to the propane tank. Are you able to get the Touch GX to read propane tank levels? If so what kind of sensor does that require?
I have not yet, but it's on the list.

Yes the color control should read it, it's a standard range ohm sensor. I don't remember what it is off the top of my head. You can tell it full and empty range

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I have not yet, but it's on the list.

Yes the color control should read it, it's a standard range ohm sensor. I don't remember what it is off the top of my head. You can tell it full and empty range

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Interesting, Ive just never seen an electric propane sensor. Anything I've seen is like an inline gauge or a sticker that you put on the side of the bottle.
 

java

Expedition Leader
Interesting, Ive just never seen an electric propane sensor. Anything I've seen is like an inline gauge or a sticker that you put on the side of the bottle.
ACME tanks have a float in them. I believe its magnetically coupled to the gauge, but it may be a thru tank float. Not 100% sure.
The gauge just have a 0-90ohm sensor in it. I am sure its not real accurate, but close. My tank is big enough I fill it every couple years.

 

Buddha.

None of this matters
I don’t know how the LSD works in the big trucks but on my old Mustang GT with the 8.8”you wanted less friction modifier for less slip. Drag race guys would run no modifier, but this comes with “chatter” with street driving.
For street driving it called for conventional gear lube plus the modifier. With some synthetics you didn’t need the modifier.
 
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