Ski Bum Truck V2.0, F450 Rough Road RV

java

Expedition Leader
And back to the bags, the easy button is taller bags of the same diameter. I could get ~1" more uptravel.

Cut the bottom bracket down 2", use taller bag, add external bumpstop. Now the shock becomes an issue...

Here is full bump with the current bags, the OE bumpstop goes just below the frame there behind the shock. Although I dont have much shock travel left..... Its always something.

 

cjken

Explorer
Thanks guys!
Great info!
And apologizes on the Hijack!

Truck is just under 14k
I’ll repost post question on my own thread when I get a chance
 

java

Expedition Leader
Thanks guys!
Great info!
And apologizes on the Hijack!

Truck is just under 14k
I’ll repost post question on my own thread when I get a chance
No worries! I'm a bit over 14k

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java

Expedition Leader
OK been driving this beast and thinking all day. A few things come to mind.

One, use the bags I have, cut brackets lower to run the bag taller. Less bottoming, and puts it in a flatter area of the load curve. But higher bag pressure.

2020-09-18_05-27-52 by Gabe Engler, on Flickr


Two, back to the tires just being bricks? I have never ran anything but 19.5's (although factory 450 guys seem to like kelderman and come on 19.5.s). How much safety factor is in LT tires? I would be running them pretty much at max load rating 100% of the time.

Three, trans tune. I wish it would drop and hold a gear on grades sometimes. Instead it runs lower rpm's whcih drives boost way up. more rpms seems to make it flow more air and drops boost down. Thoughts?
 
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luthj

Engineer In Residence
If you are under the load limit, you can run LT tires. Just choose the pressure accordingly.
 

java

Expedition Leader
The limits are conservative for liability reasons, so if you are under or less than 3% over, its not a problem.
I will be right at it. I'll get weighed again before I decide anything 100%

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java

Expedition Leader
Big truck stuff is heavy and really tight..... And we are supposed to get 1.5" of rain today.... So I worked late last night to get as much done as possible.

Front end work list:
Check alignment again, add more toe.
Replace track bar (re-center axle)
All new brake components (after seeing how bad the rears were.....)
New tire balancers
New wheels/tires


First find 30mm socket, and proceed to bend breaker bar....


Track bar was supposed to be the easy part. As soon as I disconnected it, everything moved ~3" to the DS. Remember big truck stuff is heavy?? A bottle jack between the tire and fame wouldn't move the axle... Ended up having to block the frame up, take the wheels off, use floor jack under front axle (after dumping all air and taking it off jack stand) a BIG ratchet strap between the axle and frame, and as much strength as I had to get it back centered. And now to bitch about the track bar. Its nicely made, but its just a hiem joint on one end for adjustment. IE one side must be unbolted to spin it.... So no adjustment when its installed..... Hopefully I got it close, because this is a HUGE paint to get out apparently.




But its in....


On to brakes. They are big and heavy, and hold a lot of fluid.... Kept the rotors, they are in good shape, and no grooving. Other side looks the same, just later and darker....


Did not get to alignment, tires or balancers....
 

java

Expedition Leader
Are you scrapping your current tires AND wheels or just the tires?
I'd love to, but I don't see another good option right now.

I am swapping the spare (new still) and the extra I have in the garage on. So I'll have new on the front at least.

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Fatboyz

Observer
That's what worries me about Singles. When I get my front fender cut out flares in I'm going to see If I can trial fit some singles at Western Canadian Rockwell. If everything seems to fit well I may order some First attack. I have a neighbor that does long haul down to the states and he can bring them back from Texas for me. I do like the DBL and his service has improved but the are pricey!
 

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java

Expedition Leader
My roof creates a super low pressure zone right where my front fan is. Its constantly pulling up on the lid. I have left it open a few times which probably didn't help either..... But the lid is cracked, hinges ovaled out, and a weld broken.... Duct tape held almost all the way home....




New maxxfan acquired. But first lets deal with a little issue with them. Here you can see the circuit board that runs everything. I have had one fry due to condensation getting on it in the winter. Maxxfan replaced it for me under warranty, bu this time I will take a little action to try to prevent it. There are 4 screws under the screen, and one in the crank knob. Pop those out and you can access the board. Its held in by three screws. Remove those. Cover the comm ports with a bit of tape and hose the whole thing down with some conformal coating. Should help a little anyway I hope. Reassemble and install.





Much better.


On to the next project. After alignment and shifting the axle over the steering wheel was off center a fair bit. Well go figure that adjuster was nice and rusty..... Lots of PB, a torch, a 2' monkey wrench and 5' cheater bar and it finally started moving..... But that took a long long time.


Better. Weekend time now.


Centramatic and new tires on the front as well.

 
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luthj

Engineer In Residence
With the circuit board, you can coat with rattle can clear coating spray. Another option is to pot/encase it in hot melt glue (or epoxy if you feel the need). There are purpose made conformal coatings, but they typically are expensive for a one off job.

I have wondered if riveting a small spoiler to the top of the fan cover would produce enough downforce to prevent the rattling? Mine does it some, its much better since I moved my light bar a bit down.
 
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