Side Wall Pin Hole Repair - James Baroud Space XXL

[Chunks]

Son-of-a-B!!!

Some how I managed to get a small pin hole (will post pic later) in the side wall of my - BRAND NEW - James Baroud Space XXL. Its located near the flange of the shell's top half and near the rear clasp. I think the material was pinched and caught by a burr on the shell's inside wall face. At least that's my current theory. Anyway.... Looking for feedback regarding patching best practices.

Also, its seem like the tent needs to be packed (or stuffed) just right otherwise its harder to close than I would expect, or hope. Does anyone else share this observation? If so, thoughts / procedure for proper closing?

That's all, go way now.

 

[highwest]

For pinhole repairs, I prefer a small dot of seam sealer. Alternatively, a small circle of adhesive-backed ripstop nylon in the appropriate color would work. I believe Gear Aid is one company that offers both of these.

 

[NOPEC]

You might consider some clear Shoe Goo. We use it for everything fabric (coated, uncoated, vinyl, neoprene, etc.) in both our outdoor gear and camper. We have tent seams and kayak spray skirts that have been repaired and seams protected with it and have had virtually no failures, other than just plain wear and tear, in thousands of kilometers. It is a foundation item in any repair kit we carry. We even use it occasionally to repair shoes and boots. Clean the surfaces really well and use sparingly on both sides. Works equally well as a sealer by itself or as an adhesive for a patch.

 

[Chunks]

You might consider some clear Shoe Goo. We use it for everything fabric (coated, uncoated, vinyl, neoprene, etc.) in both our outdoor gear and camper. We have tent seams and kayak spray skirts that have been repaired and seams protected with it and have had virtually no failures, other than just plain wear and tear, in thousands of kilometers. It is a foundation item in any repair kit we carry. We even use it occasionally to repair shoes and boots. Clean the surfaces really well and use sparingly on both sides. Works equally well as a sealer by itself or as an adhesive for a patch.

Thank you - This is great feedback, much appreciated. Can you provide some specifics on typical surface prep?

 

[NOPEC]

Thank you - This is great feedback, much appreciated. Can you provide some specifics on typical surface prep?

I would lightly roughen up the area to be repaired (only to take the sheen off of it) with something like new 400 grit sandpaper or new steel wool. A light touch is all that is needed.

As your wall material is very new, there maybe a hint of factory residue remaining from the manufacturing of the fabric. After the "roughing up", wash and dry the area around the hole with good old soap and water, maybe use a very small amount of a diluted cleaner with a degreasing component, such as Simple Green and then use your sealer on both sides. From my experience, less is best, especially with a surface that has to flex. The treatment of the edges are as important as the actual hole. Ensure that the margins are well feathered and thinned away from the hole, as opposed to being a straight walled edge (such as you would get if you taped off the area, something to definitely avoid, just be careful!!). Use a small flat tool to apply (I use a small wooden stir stick) the material from the tube. Don't squeeze it out of the tube, the opening is way too large for anything other than a job requiring more coverage than your project. Good Luck.

 

[Chunks]

I would lightly roughen up the area to be repaired (only to take the sheen off of it) with something like new 400 grit sandpaper or new steel wool. A light touch is all that is needed.

As your wall material is very new, there maybe a hint of factory residue remaining from the manufacturing of the fabric. After the "roughing up", wash and dry the area around the hole with good old soap and water, maybe use a very small amount of a diluted cleaner with a degreasing component, such as Simple Green and then use your sealer on both sides. From my experience, less is best, especially with a surface that has to flex. The treatment of the edges are as important as the actual hole. Ensure that the margins are well feathered and thinned away from the hole, as opposed to being a straight walled edge (such as you would get if you taped off the area, something to definitely avoid, just be careful!!). Use a small flat tool to apply (I use a small wooden stir stick) the material from the tube. Don't squeeze it out of the tube, the opening is way too large for anything other than a job requiring more coverage than your project. Good Luck.

Thank you for the guidance. Makes sense and jives with my thoughts too. Its just so friggin annoying that this happened after only a month of ownership. Once I determine root-cause I will post my findings.... And notify JB if its a Mfg. boo boo.

...its been a day

 

[ThePartyWagon]

I'd simply use a piece of ripstop Tenacious Tape. I use it on everything from tents to fishing waders. Cut a patch that covers the hole; do the inside and outside if you're so inclined. They sell it in many different colors.

It works great, I love it. No glue, no drying.

If I were to use glue, I'd use Aquaseal.