Selectable lockers for front diff 2002 Taco, what's available?

[roving1]

So is there just ARB and Harrop E locker for this application? Wondering if I'm missing anything?

I don't really want to permanently mount my air compressor as a move it around a bunch of vehicles and honestly I seriously have lost count the amount of times I have seen some sort of leak make an Arb fail out on a trail.

But the Harrop is $1400 which is ludicrous. I can buy two truetracs and new ring and pinions for that price.

Anyone remember the electratrac that Detroit/tractech made right before Eaton bought them? It was a helical LSD that you could electronically fully lock. So awesome. They only made it for a short while. Such a bummer. That I would pay $1400 for but for just a regular locker, meh.

 

[bkg]

I'd personally go ARB, no question. Run some braided line if concerned about the plastic line (I've only ever had 1 issue - it was my fault). For air, run a Powertank so you can use it in other areas.

 

[Dopesick]

From someone who has a Tacoma and 4Runner (which use the same diff).

I'm going to contribute a thinking point. The IFS front diff is a small diff to begin with. Adding a locker to it, will place even more stress on the case and 3 mounting points. To me, this sounds like a terrible idea. Especially if you are adding upgraded CV axles.
Myself and a good amount of others, think stock CV Axles, and a limited slip, is the way to go up front. Especially if you have a "locked" transfer case, sending 50/50 power to front and rear. You gotta have a weak point. With tough axles and a locker up front, that weak point generally becomes the diff housing.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I'd think if you grenade a clamshell or break mounts you're flogging your truck too hard and should be doing a solid axle swap. I ran an Air Locker in my '91 (also a 7.5" diff, but admittedly a different housing), I broke less stuff using it, I think that's because you don't have to use nearly as much momentum and don't bounce as much. IMO an ARB is the only way to go. With everything locked you have no surprises. My experience with Air Lockers is that the CV axle is still the weak link.

 

[toy_tek]

Why do you want a front locker? Unless you’re rock crawling, you will seldom need it.

I’ve had an ARB in the front of my 4R (same diff as yours) for over 10 years. The ARB has given me no issues, and I never broke a cv, but honestly if I were building another rig, I would skip a front locker altogether. It just doesn’t get used. I did some really tough AZ trails (not “expo” stuff) for the first few years with it, and it worked great, but have rarely used it since. Given the cost of the locker, the install cost, and added complexity (ie failure possibilities), I don’t really see the value in it for most camping trail vehicles. If this were the Pirate forum, I’d have a different opinion.

 

[tacollie]

From my understanding the ARB is a stronger diff than the stock diff. I would rather break a CV than a diff. Lots of people do difficult trails with a front locker and don't break things. If you want a front locker do the ARB. If you break things with it you would probably break things without it.

 

[roving1]

Thanks for the responses.

I'm re-gearing so it's a now or never sort of thing.

I also have helical LSD's in two other vehicles and love the performance in every driving scenario except wheels in the air sort of stuff, although that is still manageable with ether parking brake or service brake application most of the time.

So it's a combo of deciding if I want LSD or locker in the rear and depending on that what I want in the front and the fact I never want to touch the ring and pinion or diffs again in this vehicle after I make a decision.

 

[kletzenklueffer]

Another perspective- IIRC, when XOverland set up the 13 Tacoma TRD, they dumped the factory rear locker and went with ARB's front and rear and have wheeled pretty hard for that truck with no noted issues.

My 14 has ARB's and my 93 80 series has factory e-lockers. It's hard to admit, but I like the ARB's better for the on board air and for the ability to lock each independently.

 

[blueranger501]

Does the arb in the front really make it stronger? Debating front winch vs front arb. Regearing...do it to have it, only use as last resort. You’ll be stoked in the long run once the install sting fades.

 

[bkg]

Does the arb in the front really make it stronger? Debating front winch vs front arb. Regearing...do it to have it, only use as last resort. You’ll be stoked in the long run once the install sting fades.

potentially. The ARB carrier is stronger than the open carrier... and it also solves the driver's side bearing "issue."

 

[xlcaferacer]

The ARB is definitely stronger than the stock differential. In simple terms; it is a solid case inside if the stock differential and thus, lessens some of the deflection that causes parts to misalign and break when the truck is used in a hard scenario.
When in use in a one wheel in the air situation it also lessens the chance of breaking a cv axle. When that wheel that is in the air returns to the ground, power is constantly split 50/50 between both Axles when it is activated. This means that both Axles are always sharing power delivery evenly. With an open diff, and even a limited slip way more power is sent to the free spinning axle that is in the air. When that axle finally touches ground it will be gaining traction again with most of the torque going to it. This is a huge cause of broken cv Axles. So when people say: "I broke an axle or differential with just an open front diff and I will never lock the front end", they don't understand the true benefits of what a full case case locker can do. Sure; if you have your locker engaged when making a really tight turn, you will most certainly find the weak point in a CV axle. But that is the beauty of a selectable locker. If you can't back up to find a straighter line while your locker is in use, you can just turn it off and make the turn without much worry for breaking a CV.
A lunch box locker (spartan, Aussie, etc.) will give you the added traction and safety for your Axles, but they have downfalls. First and foremost is steering is much harder (it sucks!) since you can't turn it off. Second is that it does nothing to strengthen your differential. Third is the fact that since you can't turn it off you risk the chance of blowing a CV when you do need to make a tight turn. So just avoid this option. I put one in for one trip and pulled it out as soon as I got home. It was a lot of work but I was glad to make it go away.
After years of figuring out if it was worth the $$, I finally put an ARB the front of my '89 IFS Pickup this winter and couldn't be happier with the money I spent. It has strengthened my front end in many ways and has made obstacles that were once hard, easy! I put it in primarily for the strength factor but: "Holy ******t, the traction!
Do it once, do it right and know there are many benefits it offers.