YF_Ryan
Member
Thanks for sharing!! Yeah, as stated above, that upper mounting point didn't exist before. Definitely looks more stout/stable. I hope they carry that over to the Olympic and Yoho, but I won't hold my breath.
Scout Olympic vs Kenai
- Thread starter GeorgeHayduke
- Start date
YF_Ryan
Member
My last build had really tight access to snug my fridge straps down, too. But luckily I only ever removed my fridge like half a dozen times in 2 years so it wasn't a big deal. I figure it will be the same once we get our Yoho. But we will also need to put in our own mounts, as we are not using the offered fridge.
Hey Guys, néw to the forum but thought I’d chime in. We also have the Kenai and a couple quick updates:
1. Scout(Ryan and Chad) have been top notch. I give them big props for being so open about everything and willing to listen. For example, the jacks were an issue. They realized that and had a remedy within a short time period, the new set up should work just fine.
2. The Kenai has more room than one may think. We have 2 kids (11/13) w RTT, no issues
3. I also have the NL for a fridge. Has anyone contemplated using the base mount for the fridge? I was thinking one could possible bolt that to the area where the fridge goes and forego the strap method?
Nice on the NL. Baseplate Idea is interesting. I don't think it'll work tho as there are the jack base plates right there in that area and the NL base plate wouldn't be able to lie flush against the floor. You don't want to mess with those Jack plates either (the black metal plate in that area) as its so structural. I think I'm going to try a single tie-down anchor, screwed in with 5/8" screws and then rollercam.com straps to make it easier to cinch down. That being said, I'm still debating on whether to do two anchors per side or just one.
What are you using for your electrical plugs?
What are you using for your electrical plugs?
I basically bought another plug with the same gauge wire that had an Andersen connection, spliced that with the NL Andersen end plug, heat wrapped it and went from there. I now have a cable with Andersen plugs on both sides, one to the NL and one to the GZ. I used the output under the lid on the GZ. Seems to work just fine. Hope that makes sense. If not, I can send you a pic of the cord.
Makes perfect sense. I just bought some APP 45amp connectors and a crimper. I'll doing the same connection under the lid there. The NL fridges are pretty dang bullet proof. There have been some issues and a recall with the Dometic CFX3 line but plenty of people seem to be getting along well with them. I think NL, ARB and Engle are the more reliable fridges...but I don't have personal experiences with all of them. There is a thread here somewhere that has a bunch of comments regarding Dometic CFX3 vs National Luna.
I’m sure the Dometic will be just fine, lots of people have had success with them. I went with the NL for two reasons, one they just seem a little more durable IMO, and two, they draw SLIGHTLY less power off the GZ than the Dometic. In warmer areas/times, either one will be pulling pretty hard on the GZ, but to me the insulation and durability of the NL seemed better for nearly the same price. If you ever want to know more than you’ve ever wanted about mobile refrigeration, talk to the guys at Equipt.
YF_Ryan
Member
Wife and I LOVE our CFX75DZW. BUT, we have the original one from our previous camp setup, not the new CFX3 series. Ours does not have the issue of not being able to plug the 110 and the 12v in at the same time. That's how we always had it setup and it worked flawlessly. We added the insulated cover, but mainly to keep it from getting banged up. Definitely made it more comfortable to sit on! We also recently picked up an older ARB 50qt from a friend that has been heavily used for years. Looks a little beat up, but still gets down below freezing right quick. Originally when purchasing our AT Habitat from Equipt, we planned to buy the National Luna, but they were just FAR more expensive for a much smaller fridge. National Luna has since come out with a more competitively priced fridge, but I still have no experience with either. I'm betting they are great, but at the time I could not get my head around the price. Saved us over 500 bux, and it's worked out great for us going with the Dometic.
The OG CFX series seems to be well liked. The new one is a bit more mixed.
there is a lot of good info here:
there is a lot of good info here:
What is everyone using for the anchor points for the tie downs, going into camper/wall base? Yeti or something similar??
I used a simple D-ring anchor from home depot on the area where the fridge sits. I put a tiny pilot hole in and then a 5/8ths screw (maybe a touch longer if the bracket is thick). So far so good. I also put an anti-slip mat under the fridge and its just strapped down via the cam-strap.
Something like this:
Something like this:
CURT 1" x 1-1/4" Surface-Mounted Tie-Down D-Ring (1,200 lbs., Clear Zinc) 83730 - The Home Depot
This CURT D-ring tiedown anchor is designed to be surface mounted and add a convenient anchoring point for cargo straps, ropes or cables. It comes with a 2-1/4" x 13/16" mounting bracket and two 1/4" diameter mounting holes, spaced 1-1/2" apart, center to center. This rope ring features...
www.homedepot.com
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I'm adding in a couple of small 5.1mm pigtails on the wiring to connect to a Sirocco II fan. Its low draw, about .5amps on high I think. The question is...do I need to have the camper wired in with fuses at? Everything is just running through the main APP port with the fridge connected to the extra one under the lid. Power draw is rarely ever above 6amps as the electrical stuff is pretty efficient.
Or is there a panel somewhere that I've just missed?
Or is there a panel somewhere that I've just missed?
A couple of updates to ours:
1- Electrical - I dug around and there is no panel or fuses etc, but GoalZero got back to me and said I don't need any of that. The wiring is all pretty simple. Seems like most of the runs are 16 AWG and tucked behind the plywood corner pieces or nicely hidden and wrapped in that flexible plastic cover.
2- The National Luna fridge is awesome and the simple Curt D-Loop mounts with a single strap on either side has worked great with the fridge. It doesn't move around when driving on super potholed bad roads. I do have an anti-slip mat under it that helps I think.
3- The Airhead Toilet is fully installed. Its so freaking sweet to use. No chemicals or mess and its a perfect fit with the larger 2gal liquid bottle too. I routed the vent hosing out the top with a JR Products mushroom vent and Mangus Bond 75AM sealant/adhesive. The fan wires in nicely a half in away to the existing wiring too. I use hole saws to cut into the plywood cabinetry so as to route the housing in a hidden way. The ceiling hole was done with a 2.5in hole saw as well and was really easy. I used a custom switch for the vent fan so I could turn it off if I want.
4- I'm wiring in the Sirroco II fan this week and will use some thumbscrews to mount it to the upper brackets on passenger side. It'll give me some flexibility in figuring out where I want it. Wiring it into the 12v run that is below the fireplace. There is wiring already there for the small fan on the heater. Using 18 AWG and some basic crimp connectors.
1- Electrical - I dug around and there is no panel or fuses etc, but GoalZero got back to me and said I don't need any of that. The wiring is all pretty simple. Seems like most of the runs are 16 AWG and tucked behind the plywood corner pieces or nicely hidden and wrapped in that flexible plastic cover.
2- The National Luna fridge is awesome and the simple Curt D-Loop mounts with a single strap on either side has worked great with the fridge. It doesn't move around when driving on super potholed bad roads. I do have an anti-slip mat under it that helps I think.
3- The Airhead Toilet is fully installed. Its so freaking sweet to use. No chemicals or mess and its a perfect fit with the larger 2gal liquid bottle too. I routed the vent hosing out the top with a JR Products mushroom vent and Mangus Bond 75AM sealant/adhesive. The fan wires in nicely a half in away to the existing wiring too. I use hole saws to cut into the plywood cabinetry so as to route the housing in a hidden way. The ceiling hole was done with a 2.5in hole saw as well and was really easy. I used a custom switch for the vent fan so I could turn it off if I want.
4- I'm wiring in the Sirroco II fan this week and will use some thumbscrews to mount it to the upper brackets on passenger side. It'll give me some flexibility in figuring out where I want it. Wiring it into the 12v run that is below the fireplace. There is wiring already there for the small fan on the heater. Using 18 AWG and some basic crimp connectors.
