Schutt Industries - Xventure Owners

Superpanga

Active member
About to tackle installing some Redarc gear in the XV3. Space is so tight in the electric box. I was going to keep some of the Schutt installed systems but I think it might force me to a full swap for space. Or install some components in the cargo area. Anyone tackle this ?

For clarification, it is the large nose box,but also with the galley system so tight quarters!!

Thx!

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I also have the large cargo box but didn’t get the galley, already have a cooking setup I like. Schutt installed the batteries in the middle compartment of my cargo box. I’m moving them into the section with the switches, fuses, etc, and I agree it’s a tight fit. Can you put a couple photos up of your electric area? I’d like to see how Schutt set it up. I’m putting two Battleborn lithium batteries in the center compartment and keeping the AGM batteries for back up if I hit bad weather and can’t charge the Battleborn with solar.
 

Superpanga

Active member
I also have the large cargo box but didn’t get the galley, already have a cooking setup I like. Schutt installed the batteries in the middle compartment of my cargo box. I’m moving them into the section with the switches, fuses, etc, and I agree it’s a tight fit. Can you put a couple photos up of your electric area? I’d like to see how Schutt set it up. I’m putting two Battleborn lithium batteries in the center compartment and keeping the AGM batteries for back up if I hit bad weather and can’t charge the Battleborn with solar.


I'll snap some photos tomorrow- My weekend starts on Monday, so I plan n tinkering with this project tomorrow!
 

Superpanga

Active member
Started in on the Redarc project.

I've decided to strip out all of the Schutt-installed components in favor of a Manager 30 and Revision distribution box and panel.

I'd say I'm in the awkward phase now- wires are not yet loomed/tied away and I am still chasing a couple of the gremlins that got me started down this path!

I took the opportunity to run new hardwire connection for the ARB fridge in the cargo area. This will be switchable from the panel as well.

I installed a "weatherproof" 12v cigarette port over by the galley. Will be nice to have a handy port for powering the RTT or Awning lights, charging gear, etc.

I'll post better pictures as I button up the install, but overall I am feeling good about the choice.

When I'm done, there won't be anything on the door- bothered me to have all that hinge/movement of the switches and solar connection. I believe they will both be more stable on a fixed surface.

It's a ridiculously tight fit and so I had to arrange the equipment in perhaps not the way I'd like, but it will be clean and I have a pile of wires that have come out, so i like the simplification already.

I like that I can configure the phone as an additional control panel- turn things on and off from the jeep or RTT.
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Rooney

Member
glad to see there is a section for my trailer on here was wondering if anyone here has replace their water pump? Looking for a part number for the water pump so I can order it before I take everything apart. I have an Xv-2. It’s a 2015 model.
 

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03tahoe

Member
Here's some XV-2 updates, including storage, solar, lights, and propane. First post will cover storage.

Storage bins at the store
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Height check, this was all luck coming right in at 19.25-inches
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Storage in trailer bed. Upper right are two 5-gal. bins, to the left are 4 12-gal. bins stacked 2 high, behind them in the bed are two 20-gal. bins. The space over the top of the 20-gal. bins is just enough to put the Dis-co-bed XL bags (not shown). Under the rug and blanket are camp chairs and a camp table.
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Behind the bins in the back of the bed are sleeping bags, a cooler, the portable toilet, a propane grill, a NATO gas can, and space for random items around the water heater.
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Tongue box left electrical compartment has the faucet, propane grill and buddy heater hoses, tools/parts bag, LED lights, JBL speaker, and the sink.
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Center compartment has the tent and awning stakes, ratchet straps, mallet, and light guards (see bit on lights next).
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Fridge compartment has the ARB fridge in it. Since the Rhino Rack is raised 2-inch fridge top opens vertical, where before it would tend to fall back down unless you held it open.
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03tahoe

Member
For storage in the bed of the trailer I'd been looking for an upgrade to the rubbermaid bins we'd been using for camping for years. They worked great except that they were about 17-inches tall and the height under the tonneau cover on an XV-2 is right at 19.25-inches. This left some wasted space since I don't have much gear that's only 2-inches thick. After looking around a good amount on the internet for other options I ended up picking up Husky clear top storage containers from Home Depot. Best part is that two of the medium sized (12 gal.) containers stack right to 19.25-inches tall. The large size (20 gal.) is 15.3-inches tall, leaving some useful height between the bin and the under side of the tonneau cover. Also two of the small containers (5 gal.) stack to 19.25-inches tall and fit just right in front of the water tank fill location. Some modifications to how the front of the tonneau cover gets held down were needed to make the push all the way forward (sorry I don't have pictures of that now).
 

03tahoe

Member
Lighting covers to keep the Roof Top Tent Cover off the hot lights. You'll also notice that I moved the lights down off the rack and onto the vertical bar so the tent would open (this was done right away, but I don't think I put up a good photo of it. You can also see the nylon tipped set screws in the uprights that have been doing a good job keeping the rack quiet down the road and at camp.

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03tahoe

Member
Solar. I got a Renogy 100W flexible panel and put rubber edging around it to keep it from cutting into something like the tent or awning fabric. Also picked up the needed adapter cables and 24-ft of cable so the panel can be placed where the sun is best.
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Getting 4.# amps out of it in January sunlight.
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Storage is going to be under the rooftop tent cover. I've got the attached annex folder up under the cover already, and this solar panel fits cross-wise not problem.
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03tahoe

Member
Propane. To allow the use of a Brunton two-burner stove that runs on ~12psi I added in a adjustable regulator and a 90-deg. fitting with a 1-lb bottle type port. There's a second regulator after the split under the trailer on the line side that goes to the hot water heater so that still only gets 0.5 to 1psi. The 1-lb bottle type port is where I connect the propane grill or the buddy heater. I can also run either of those off the 6-lb propane tank on the back of the trailer. So yeah, no more need to use the 1-lb bottles.
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Superpanga

Active member
Anyone here running the gelley/hot water system? On our XV3 it has been nothing but $#^$ trouble. Today, in prep for a trip I was running system tests and water began spraying everywhere from the propane heater. Clearly it isn't a unit solid enough for rugged use. The aluminum tubes feeding the radiator fins are split. Now the whole unit will have to be unbuilt, again. Anyone using these things in less than ideal conditions? Unfortunately, because Schutt opted to feed both cold and hot through the unit, there is no bypass to just run cold. I am considering dumping the heater and making direct connections. That said, for a unit that has few miles on it, it will mean that I will have given up on two major systems- electrical and water. This is not a discount piece of gear and should not be built as such.

Anyone tackle removing the heater unit from the galley? Thoughts on alternative systems?
 

Russ Chung

Observer
I too have had a lot of trouble with the water heater. I have an XV-3 with the slide out galley. It came with the Camp Chef Triton 5 liter water heater. I took delivery in September, 2018. Almost immediately after I picked it up, the water heater sprang an internal leak because one of the internal fittings came loose. I had to unmount the water heater from the slide in order to reach and tighten the fitting. A few months later, the mounting bracket separated from the water heater frame because the welds broke. I again took it apart, drilled some holes, bolted the bracket to the water heater frame and re-mounted the water heater to the galley slide. About a year later, the heat exchanger separated from the water heater frame. It was rattling around but it did not leak. I could not repair it and I ordered another Triton 5L water heater directly from Camp Chef. Before I installed the replacement, I took the cover off and checked the internal fitting and found it was loose. I tightened the fitting, installed the water heater and it worked fine for about a year. It sprang an internal leak, and this time, there was a crack in the heat exchanger. Camp Chef was out of stock, so I went to my local Camping World and got a different brand, an Eccotemp 5L. I've had the Eccotemp for about a year, and there have been no leaks but recently, the temperature control has gone haywire and the water gets very hot and then the heater shuts off. Bottom line, three water heaters in three and a half years and possibly a fourth water heater.

Some observations:
1. The suspension on the XV-3 is very stiff. The water heater, the camp stove and the Pioneer rack have taken a beating because of the trails in the Southwest. I lower the trailer tire pressure to soften the ride when I take it off road.
2. When the water heater sprang a leak, I bypassed it by using a 1/2" diameter plastic pipe fitting between the inlet and outlet lines.
3. I seldom use the water heater for cooking or cleaning. By the time the system fires up and the warm water reaches the faucet, I waste a lot of water. For cooking and cleaning, I fill a pot with cold water and heat it on the stove. I only use the water heater for a shower.
 

Superpanga

Active member
I too have had a lot of trouble with the water heater. I have an XV-3 with the slide out galley. It came with the Camp Chef Triton 5 liter water heater. I took delivery in September, 2018. Almost immediately after I picked it up, the water heater sprang an internal leak because one of the internal fittings came loose. I had to unmount the water heater from the slide in order to reach and tighten the fitting. A few months later, the mounting bracket separated from the water heater frame because the welds broke. I again took it apart, drilled some holes, bolted the bracket to the water heater frame and re-mounted the water heater to the galley slide. About a year later, the heat exchanger separated from the water heater frame. It was rattling around but it did not leak. I could not repair it and I ordered another Triton 5L water heater directly from Camp Chef. Before I installed the replacement, I took the cover off and checked the internal fitting and found it was loose. I tightened the fitting, installed the water heater and it worked fine for about a year. It sprang an internal leak, and this time, there was a crack in the heat exchanger. Camp Chef was out of stock, so I went to my local Camping World and got a different brand, an Eccotemp 5L. I've had the Eccotemp for about a year, and there have been no leaks but recently, the temperature control has gone haywire and the water gets very hot and then the heater shuts off. Bottom line, three water heaters in three and a half years and possibly a fourth water heater.

Some observations:
1. The suspension on the XV-3 is very stiff. The water heater, the camp stove and the Pioneer rack have taken a beating because of the trails in the Southwest. I lower the trailer tire pressure to soften the ride when I take it off road.
2. When the water heater sprang a leak, I bypassed it by using a 1/2" diameter plastic pipe fitting between the inlet and outlet lines.
3. I seldom use the water heater for cooking or cleaning. By the time the system fires up and the warm water reaches the faucet, I waste a lot of water. For cooking and cleaning, I fill a pot with cold water and heat it on the stove. I only use the water heater for a shower.

Thanks for your notes. I think I am going to radically simplify the plumbing, eliminate a bunch of moving hoses and add a bypass for the heater. I agree- usually I frankly have the heater off, fill a pot, etc. I don't like that the heater must be functional in order to move water, so I think a bypass is key, especially as fragile as these seem to be. And yes- the torsion suspension is a bear- I air down whenever possible. As for the pioneer rack- again here is a place where I think Xventure has done themselves a disservice by not selecting a welded rack vs a modular rack. I just picked up some mounting bracket gussets that will effectively marry the sides to the fronts and should help with the twist and abuse of the Rhino rack. Again, should have been a welded rack IMO. Onward.
 

Superpanga

Active member
Had a great conversation with the guys at Schutt today re: the heater and service-ability. Gave some good advice and also admitted to it being near impossible to remove the unit without taking out the whole galley slide.

I can't get a wrench where it needs to go, due to space constraints. May just have to cut the unit out. Pretty disappointed really, but this is a weak spot that I will be eliminating- either no more hot water or making it a portable/quick release setup as these tankless units are best described as disposable.

Wish I wasn't trying to do this in the cold!
 

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