Schutt Industries - Xventure Owners

Roaddude

Long time off-grid vanlife adventurist
Hey gang -

I'm surprised I haven't seen this thread before. I'm usually out wandering North America; often back-country and way out of range for cell service, so am not always checking in with adventure forums.

I've had my 2017 XVenture XV-2 going on four years. I've had it out well over 600 nights; mostly pre-pandemic and in all sorts of environments and weather. When I go out I'm usually gone for months. Last big trip before the pandemic was eight months long.

I've used my XV-2 lakeside and forest camping in New England and up in the mountains of east Tennessee, in the bayous & swamps of southern Louisiana and on Gulf of Mexico beaches, and all over the southwest and Chihuahuan Desert borderlands.

canoeloaded-900.jpeg
Packed up and ready to roll.

I've been up to Schutt Industries in Clintonville WI a couple times, have met with Tim and crew there and on the road at shows. Tim is great and Schutt is an impressive operation. From what I hear they're wicked slammed right now; backed up with orders and inquiries from all the historic interest in outdoor recreation and the material shortages and logistics problems brought on by the pandemic.

In reading through this thread, I see several questions I may be able to help answer, with what I've learned about my trailer. I don't pretend to have all the answers, though you'd be hard-pressed to find someone who has used their XVenture Severe-Duty trailer more than I have used mine.

Small problems you may encounter with your trailer's options are not always the fault of Schutt Industries. Accessories and different packages are sometimes assembled/installed by individual dealers after a customer orders which options they prefer.

=================
ELECTRICAL:

@harryx46: The switch labeled EXP is for the optional Expansion lighting package. On mine, that means the Ridgid LED rack lights at rear passenger and tailgate.

All rack lights on mine, whether basic or expansion, are connected via the weatherproof connections at the rear of my rack; one on each side. They connect to the extensions available in the cargo bed inside each side of the tailgate. I only connect them when camped, not underway. When underway, I coil the extensions and tuck them into the loom at each side, and use the male plug to seal the rack connector as shown below.

I love these connectors; German in origin, I believe. One of these days I'm going to make a small pocket for each side inside the tailgate area to keep both the extension and male plugs.

lighting_6934-800.jpeg
Connection for rack lights, passenger side, XV-2. This is the male plug you keep in place when not connected to keep it clean.
...

lighting_6939-800.jpeg
Expansion light wiring plug, inside right rear of the tailgate, with plenty extension length to go up to the rack. Same thing driver's side for the galley lights on the rack. I don't travel with these extensions plugged in, unless only going a short way. I unplug and stow them when on the highway, and put the male travel plug in.

To be honest, I don't really use my rack lights much, preferring to use the pods from my Ready Lights for whichever area I'm working. I don't like that both the EXP and Bed/Galley switches turn on more lights than I need. I may add an inline switch to each of my rack lights at some point, though, so I can use whichever ones I want without wasting power to the others.

TIP: Even when I have my canoe strapped to the tonneau cover and nose box as seen above and can't open the nose box lid, I can reach in through the side port on the box and turn on/off the EXP switch, air comp, rock lights, etc.

When camping in a particularly buggy area, using primarily the rock lights will keep the bugs low. I've also put a yellow gel over the rack lights or my pod lights to reduce bugs being attracted.

Brake Controller: Yeah, absolutely, I can't see towing a trailer equipped with electric brakes without a good brake controller. I hooked up a Tekonsha 90195 P3 and have been very happy with it. I like that I can adjust the boost level, and that I can reach down while on a trail and apply just the trailer brakes if I want, like going over a rise if I want the trailer to hold me back a bit.

=================
NOSE BOX:

@TxTyphoon: mine has a rugged rubber seal all the way around on the upper edge of the nose box. Even with all the in-&-out of my various cases and containers and leaving the lid open a lot when in camp even under desert sun, the seal still works and looks like new. I've never had any water get in from the lid, even when I run a cord from the nose box 12v outlet to my van for the fridge, etc.

nosebox-latch_6940-800n.jpeg....nosebox-latch_6941-800n.jpeg
Rubber seal around upper edge of XV-2 nose box.

I don't remember now if it was you or someone else who asked about the lock/latch on the nose box. I have not had any problem latching/locking mine, or with the front wall of the nose box being at all flexible. Though, if you have something in the way of the latch hook on the inside, it may make it difficult to latch and lock.

cubpacks-nosebox_6620-wmkd.jpeg
TIP: FRO Cub Packs and Flat Packs on end work really well in the XV-2 nose box

(cont'd. . . )
 
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Roaddude

Long time off-grid vanlife adventurist
cont'd from prev post. . .

=================
WATER SYSTEM:

@8-track: I see that was your only message here on ExPo, though I'm wondering if you figured out your slow tank-fill issue? I've never had a problem filling or emptying mine.

@Aspec44: I'm not a fan of leaving the pump switch on when not using one of the water outlets, especially overnight or if away from camp. I'll leave it on while preparing and cleaning up after a meal, or for a shower, though am in the habit of turning the pump off when done.

I've had raccoons climb about my galley counter and hit the faucet handle in the middle of the night. I had the pump off, though could tell the little bastards had messed with everything, including the sink faucet. I've also had folks wander through my camp when I'm gone, just to look at it all, and can see they tried the faucet from the drips in the tub.

@emulous74, @03tahoe: Water tank and baffle - I have to wonder if they changed tanks at some point. Mine is 22gal, has a baffle separating the sides so the contents don't all go rushing to one side or the other when off-camber on a trail (potentially throwing off your center of gravity), though I've never had any issues filling, using, or draining mine. In fact, when I first picked up the trailer I bought 25 gals of inexpensive spring water to start it off, as I was nowhere near a good known potable water source. Took all but a couple gallons.

I keep track now of how much I add by how many 5gal jugs I pour in while in camp.

@Russ Chung: I'm sure you've already found a way to clean and disinfect your water system, though I'll add what I do every time it sets for awhile, and every time I flush it from winter anti-freeze. I've taken to running the same solution through all lines and water heater, and letting it set at least overnight before flushing.

Easiest way to explain what I do for sanitizing is to repost the below explanation from a couple yrs ago:


Water heater:
I have the Triton on-demand water heater, armored and at right rear in the cargo bed, feeding both my sink at left rear and shower connection at front right. I haven't had any leaking problems with mine, and wonder with those that are leaking either at heater or lines if they at some point froze when owned previously, or if it's been an issue primarily with the pull-out kitchen deal.

If I know it's going to get to 28ºF, I drain the water tank completely and winterize it and all lines and heater. I've heard of a lot of adventure trailer owners not being thorough in winterizing and ending up with problems somewhere in their system.

TIP: Also good to run food-grade white vinegar through your water heater once a year to deal with potential scaling. A typical adventure trailer water tank may see all sorts of different water hardness go through it in the course of a year. The heater will, especially if not being run regularly, need de-scaling. There are commercial de-scaling kits, but you really can do it with a bucket and food-grade white vinegar.

Quick-connects: One of the simplest tricks to keeping your water system quick-connects easy to use is to smear a little vaseline around the hose ends, greasing the o-ring well. Before Schutt's main man in trailer assembly showed me that, I was just about busting my knuckles trying to hook up my faucet lines. I wipe them clean of grit and sand before connecting and make sure the trailer side of the quick-connect is clean too, and periodically rub some vaseline around the ends. I keep a couple of o-rings around, too, in case one gets buggered up.

Shower Hose: I found an 8' extension at a big box store and bought a threaded nipple and teflon tape to join it to my existing shower hose, so now have 16' of hose to work with for camp chores.

=================
PROPANE:
The propane quick-connect under front left of my trailer is one thing on this trailer I never use. It was meant as an already regulated line from the tank on the tongue for the drop-in stove they offered as an option for use in their folding galley counter. I haven't found, and quit trying to find, the right quick-connect for that. Sometimes I keep a propane Y splitter on the tank on the tongue, with one side of the Y going to my Partner or fire-ring and the other side hooked to the regulated line for the water heater. Sometimes I just use another 20# tank for stove and fire-ring and have it sitting under the trailer. I'm thinking about making a wider platform for the tongue to hold two 20# tanks.

=================

Here's an animated ten-shot of how the elements of my adventure rig set up for complete base camp:

tensetup-1028.gif
(refresh your screen if not still animated; it usually goes through three times then stops)
...

basecamp_2572-1000.jpg
I use this configuration a lot. I've found having just a couple sidewalls up can make a huge difference in comfort during both breezy weather and overly sunny weather.
...

coldweather_5639.jpg
For freezing weather I set up walls all around and keep my fire-ring going while still awake. The walls attach quickly via 3" tall strip of HD hook & loopon the awning's under-edge.

I'm making skirts that will attach via marine snaps to the trailer's fenders to block drafts from coming under the trailer. If I want access to storage under the trailer from the kitchen side, I'll snap the skirts to the ladder side. If I want access from the ladder side, I'll snap the skirts to the kitchen fenders.
...

roaddude_XV2-milkyway-7124-1000.jpg
XVenture XV-2 adventure rig under Jupiter and the Milky Way. The Rio Grande and Mexico are steps away. I solo-camped here for weeks on end.

My XVenture XV-2 has simply been the biggest boon to me getting out, staying out longer, and being more self-sufficient off-grid than any piece of gear I've ever owned.


.
 
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Superpanga

Active member
Finally snapped some photos of our new XV3.
DJI_0142.00_01_21_19.Still002.jpg
DJI_0142.00_00_00_00.Still003.jpg
DJI_0142.00_00_24_25.Still001.jpg

Some thoughts-
Schutt sent me a replacement hose for the shower feed. I ran it as they have built it, but I cannot help but think that this needs to be moved top eliminate the potential for this to pinch/fail again. Also- seems strange to put the shower on the other side away from the temp controls and closer to the electrics.

The Rhino Batwing feels cheap and flimsy. I have an Ostrich Wing on another vehicle that is built like a tank. I think the Rhino is going away.

Considering a Snomaster low profile fridge/freezer. (Have a small dometic drawer fridge in the Jeep now). Anyone have one in their trailer? On a slide? I'd love to see photos of how people are rigging/using the cargo space!

Looking forward to a first trip.
 

J squared

New member
Hey, all! Brand new to here and almost XV3 owners! We got an email from Tim at Schutt saying our XV3 Deluxe Plus will be ready by the end of next week and we weren't expecting it until early- to mid-August. So now we need to quickly find a mount for our 2" receiver on a Subaru Crosstrek XV. The top inside edge of the receiver is 11 1/4" off the ground. Asked Tim back when we ordered the trailer and he thought it needed to be at about 22". Can anyone please let us know if 22" is the right level? We just got the standard wheels/tires (31" LRR on 16" wheels). If it really is 22", then do we really need to get a 10-12" rise? Can we get away with a shorter rise or is that dangerous? Also, any opinions on aluminum versus steel, again since it's not a huge trailer? Hope you all can help. Found this site and thread today, read the whole thing and got a lot of great information.
 

Roaddude

Long time off-grid vanlife adventurist
I have an XV-2 (as shown prev in this thread), so can't say with certainty what the XV-3 height is. You can sure count on Tim to be correct, though.

What you want is enough of a hitch riser so your trailer is level when hooked up. You don't want it dipping down towards the tow vehicle.

hitch_4616-1080n.jpeg

My van hitch, while 3.5" higher than your vehicle hitch, is lower than a typical pickup truck hitch would be, and is at around 14.75" to top inside:

hitch-riser_7106-900n.jpeg
...

I picked up a good receiver adapter with a 9" rise/drop from a good trailer outfit in Louisville KY when going through there once. It turned out to be just right.

hitch-riser_7108-900ny.jpeg

...

hitch-riser_7110-900n.jpeg
...

There are also adjustable receiver adapters that you can slide up and down to various heights/drops and lock in place.

If you can't find a suitable solid receiver of the height you want, you may be able to find an adjustable one.

Here's a page on eTrailer with adjustable:

Something you'll probably have to watch with either one, though, is if it interferes with the operation of your rear hatch or tailgate. Even if it does not, it's gonna stick up a ways when you want to get in and out of the rear of your vehicle for any reason.

I leave mine in almost all the time, as it doesn't go so high that it bothers me climbing in and out of my van and does not interfere with the doors opening. In face, I just removed it last week for the first time in almost four years.

Good luck - hope you find just the solution for your situation and that it works out well.

Enjoy your XV-3!
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J squared

New member
I have an XV-2 (as shown prev in this thread), so can't say with certainty what the XV-3 height is. You can sure count on Tim to be correct, though.

What you want is enough of a hitch riser so your trailer is level when hooked up. You don't want it dipping down towards the tow vehicle.

View attachment 670623

My van hitch, while 3.5" higher than your vehicle hitch, is lower than a typical pickup truck hitch would be, and is at around 14.75" to top inside:

View attachment 670617
...

I picked up a good receiver adapter with a 9" rise/drop from a good trailer outfit in Louisville KY when going through there once. It turned out to be just right.

View attachment 670618

...

View attachment 670619
...

There are also adjustable receiver adapters that you can slide up and down to various heights/drops and lock in place.

If you can't find a suitable solid receiver of the height you want, you may be able to find an adjustable one.

Here's a page on eTrailer with adjustable:

Something you'll probably have to watch with either one, though, is if it interferes with the operation of your rear hatch or tailgate. Even if it does not, it's gonna stick up a ways when you want to get in and out of the rear of your vehicle for any reason.

I leave mine in almost all the time, as it doesn't go so high that it bothers me climbing in and out of my van and does not interfere with the doors opening. In face, I just removed it last week for the first time in almost four years.

Good luck - hope you find just the solution for your situation and that it works out well.

Enjoy your XV-3!
.
Thanks, Roaddude! I figured it would need to be level. I'm going to shoot Tim an email tonight to get the measurement for sure and there are a few places around me that will hopefully carry some options. Will make some calls and track something down. Always a 9-hour drive to Clintonville to pick up that may have more choices too. LOL! Thanks again!
 

Roaddude

Long time off-grid vanlife adventurist
Thanks, Roaddude! I figured it would need to be level. I'm going to shoot Tim an email tonight to get the measurement for sure and there are a few places around me that will hopefully carry some options. Will make some calls and track something down. Always a 9-hour drive to Clintonville to pick up that may have more choices too. LOL! Thanks again!
.
Yeah, my pleasure. Do a search along the route you're taking for the larger trailer rental and trailer vendor places. In my experience they usually have a showroom full of stuff. If you give them advance notice what you're after, they may be able to get something in stock if they don't have it already.

Tell Tim and the crew Road says hey!
.
 

Superpanga

Active member
Did you figure it out? I can go measure mine in the am. I am on 285/75/17's and can give you the tongue height as well as some pics of the receiver.

Ian


Hey, all! Brand new to here and almost XV3 owners! We got an email from Tim at Schutt saying our XV3 Deluxe Plus will be ready by the end of next week and we weren't expecting it until early- to mid-August. So now we need to quickly find a mount for our 2" receiver on a Subaru Crosstrek XV. The top inside edge of the receiver is 11 1/4" off the ground. Asked Tim back when we ordered the trailer and he thought it needed to be at about 22". Can anyone please let us know if 22" is the right level? We just got the standard wheels/tires (31" LRR on 16" wheels). If it really is 22", then do we really need to get a 10-12" rise? Can we get away with a shorter rise or is that dangerous? Also, any opinions on aluminum versus steel, again since it's not a huge trailer? Hope you all can help. Found this site and thread today, read the whole thing and got a lot of great information.
 

Superpanga

Active member
Really starting to think about how I want to configure the trailer- what kind of storage systems and how I want gear to be secured, accessible. I mounted a couple of Rhino-Rack "Stow-its" underneath the Pioneer rack using the crossbar extrusions. Thinking primarily canoe paddles, maybe fishing rods, etc. I wish the rack had tracks underneath (or was frankly mountable upside down) as I think there is a tremendous amount of functionality in the underside of the rack.

I am planning on mounting a Snomaster fridge, likely in a slide. Then I thought perhaps the slide should extend far enough out to make sure there isn't difficult access created between the fridge and the head of the bed.

While I have a couple of nice aluminum cases that I love, I think I will switch to rubber/plastic tubs for less impact in the bed liner. Any thoughts on securing these loads while traveling?

Any thoughts on mounting items like hatchet/axes, or anything frankly- to the inside walls? Hate to drill through, was thinking about installing some kind of mounting panel for flexibility.

After the plumbing failure I had at delivery, I think I will be re-routing the shower feed to a better location, eliminating the need for the long hose and one less break-prone component. Currently thinking about moving the quick-connect fitting to the galley drawer, just forward of the water heater so the hose doesn't have to recoil when closing the drawer system. Thoughts?

Also, the lighting system seems very bright and bug friendly for camp. I will be gelling them amber.

I'd appreciate a peek at anyone's organization systems or mounts for their rigs. I think a pro and con of the XV3 vs the more compartmentalized trailers like a Turtleback or Patriot is the wide open bed- more flexible, but less obvious in terms of moving in!
 

Aspec44

New member
Really starting to think about how I want to configure the trailer- what kind of storage systems and how I want gear to be secured, accessible. I mounted a couple of Rhino-Rack "Stow-its" underneath the Pioneer rack using the crossbar extrusions. Thinking primarily canoe paddles, maybe fishing rods, etc. I wish the rack had tracks underneath (or was frankly mountable upside down) as I think there is a tremendous amount of functionality in the underside of the rack.

I am planning on mounting a Snomaster fridge, likely in a slide. Then I thought perhaps the slide should extend far enough out to make sure there isn't difficult access created between the fridge and the head of the bed.

While I have a couple of nice aluminum cases that I love, I think I will switch to rubber/plastic tubs for less impact in the bed liner. Any thoughts on securing these loads while traveling?

Any thoughts on mounting items like hatchet/axes, or anything frankly- to the inside walls? Hate to drill through, was thinking about installing some kind of mounting panel for flexibility.

After the plumbing failure I had at delivery, I think I will be re-routing the shower feed to a better location, eliminating the need for the long hose and one less break-prone component. Currently thinking about moving the quick-connect fitting to the galley drawer, just forward of the water heater so the hose doesn't have to recoil when closing the drawer system. Thoughts?

Also, the lighting system seems very bright and bug friendly for camp. I will be gelling them amber.

I'd appreciate a peek at anyone's organization systems or mounts for their rigs. I think a pro and con of the XV3 vs the more compartmentalized trailers like a Turtleback or Patriot is the wide open bed- more flexible, but less obvious in terms of moving in!
I can take pictures of my setup this weekend. I have thought about doing organizer boxes (FrontRunner or Plano), but so many of my items are odd size (folding chairs, stove, sleeping pads...) so I have just organized in a way that everything is secure and there is no extra space so it doesn't move around when off road. I run an ARB fridge in my vehicle so just add a Yeti cooler if I need extra space for cold food/drinks in the back of the trailer. I will say my friends has a Turtleback Trail Getaway and although he likes the kitchen setup, finds it's much more difficult to bring the other stuff he wants because the space is limited and spread out.
 

Superpanga

Active member
Small mods: I picked up amber covers for the Rigid rack lights- Will make a HUGE difference at camp. No bugs, less intrusive lighting, but easy enough to pop off should we need all the lumens. Now to either replace or gel that LED lightstrip on the forward edge (or maybe an inline switch). On the subject of rack lights- anyone else absolutely bran themselves on the reverse light? I think that one has to go- did it myself and watched a few others get taken down! Might either move it to a corner or swap for a lightstrip. Can't decide if functionality as a reverse light vs a tailgate light is more important.
20210728_103209.jpgDSCF6536_rd.jpg
 
It has finally arrived. I ordered my XV-3 this time last year, with covid causing work stops and delays in getting components it was finished late last fall. I headed out to get it, I’m in Southern Idaho, the first week of December. Ice in Wyoming brought my trip to an end when I rolled my truck several times, it was totaled but I popped my seatbelt and walked away unhurt. I’ve been building up an 89 Suburban, bought it from the mechanic I’ve been using the last thirty years, to replace the truck and wasn’t finding time to go get the trailer so I arranged to have it shipped here. Wednesday morning at 9am it pulled up in front of my house, HELL YEA!!
Now it’s time to set it up. I’ve ordered a Rhino cargo bag for the rack until I decide on what I want to build. I’ve got two Battleborn lithium batteries arriving Monday and my solar panel setup also comes in Monday. Right now I’m rigging my Rotopax fuel tanks, three of the 4.5 gallon, to hang on the bottom of the rack. If I didn’t have to be here for the deliveies next week I’d all ready be camped on a river fly fishing.
The Suburban, Beast, is still a work in progress. It’s got a new engine and extensive repairs and upgrades completed, but it currently is one of the ugliest Suburbans on the road. Being pretty can wait until everything else is finished. Options for buying a roof rack, rock sliders and bumpers are few so I bought a welder to do the fabrication myself. It’s been over thirty years since I last welded but I’ll get it done.
By next spring at the latest my dogs and I will be living out of Beast and the XV-3 full time, we’re going to travel the backroads of the US and Canada from one fly fish area to the next, the more remote the better. Thinking I might name the trailer Beauty, then I can be rolling down the road with Beauty and the Beast.



80C70128-C6F3-4D86-B31B-F57C89C26DCC.jpeg
 

Superpanga

Active member
Hey- congratulations! I remember your story from last year. Glad to see you headed back on the right track!

When I was a kid, I drove what was surely the ugliest Suburban. Bought it at the Salvation Army for $25 and drove it, sort of, home. The front bumper had long fallen off and previous owner had welded on an I-beam! Everyone got out of the way of that thing!

Looking forward to see how you set it up. Thoughts about rod holder/storage? I was thinking about attaching a tube to either the underside of the rack, or perhaps the uprights. I have someof those Stow-its from Rhino Rack that can clamp on a rod that I sue for short trips, but they are not offering any protection from dirt, etc.

Glad to hear you are back on the road!

It has finally arrived. I ordered my XV-3 this time last year, with covid causing work stops and delays in getting components it was finished late last fall. I headed out to get it, I’m in Southern Idaho, the first week of December. Ice in Wyoming brought my trip to an end when I rolled my truck several times, it was totaled but I popped my seatbelt and walked away unhurt. I’ve been building up an 89 Suburban, bought it from the mechanic I’ve been using the last thirty years, to replace the truck and wasn’t finding time to go get the trailer so I arranged to have it shipped here. Wednesday morning at 9am it pulled up in front of my house, HELL YEA!!
Now it’s time to set it up. I’ve ordered a Rhino cargo bag for the rack until I decide on what I want to build. I’ve got two Battleborn lithium batteries arriving Monday and my solar panel setup also comes in Monday. Right now I’m rigging my Rotopax fuel tanks, three of the 4.5 gallon, to hang on the bottom of the rack. If I didn’t have to be here for the deliveies next week I’d all ready be camped on a river fly fishing.
The Suburban, Beast, is still a work in progress. It’s got a new engine and extensive repairs and upgrades completed, but it currently is one of the ugliest Suburbans on the road. Being pretty can wait until everything else is finished. Options for buying a roof rack, rock sliders and bumpers are few so I bought a welder to do the fabrication myself. It’s been over thirty years since I last welded but I’ll get it done.
By next spring at the latest my dogs and I will be living out of Beast and the XV-3 full time, we’re going to travel the backroads of the US and Canada from one fly fish area to the next, the more remote the better. Thinking I might name the trailer Beauty, then I can be rolling down the road with Beauty and the Beast.



View attachment 674050
 
By next spring at the latest my dogs and I will be living out of Beast and the XV-3 full time, we’re going to travel the backroads of the US and Canada from one fly fish area to the next, the more remote the better. Thinking I might name the trailer Beauty, then I can be rolling down the road with Beauty and the Beast.

You are my hero. Fly Fishing the US is what I am doing right now too. Once COVID restrictions ease up, I will also be going north to Canada. Congrats on the new XV-3, I have been looking mighty hard at getting one.
 

TwinStick

Explorer
A good tip for water tanks someone gave me 40 yrs ago: Sanitize with regular bleach. Not concentrated, not scented. If after it's sanitized, you don't like the bleach odor. Refill with clean water and add some mouthwash. Let sit overnight. Then drain & refill. It works.
 

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