Request for NL/Bigfoot Fiberglass Camper Owners - Drain Holes in Floor

[bch]

I'm in the process of completely renovating a Northern Lite 6-10 camper that had major water damage. The water trickled in and accumulated beneath the floor because it could not escape. I have heard that some of the NL/Bigfoots have vent drain holes in the floor, as mentioned here and here. Mine did not and I'm interested to see how this was done so that I can avoid this problem happening again. Was thinking to make 1 or 2 3/8" holes in every compartment between the floor stringers, but I'm not sure how to prevent water ingress or debris and bugs from entering. Do some fiberglass camper models have vent holes in the floor? How were they constructed? Any photos anyone would have of them would be a big help. Thanks in advance!

 

[AKU500]

I have a 2004 NL 9.6. There is a 3/8" drain hole at each rear corner of camper, see attached pic. The owners manual states when off the truck keep the front elevated 2" higher then the rear.

 

[Photomike]

Remember if you can let water out then water can get in. I would do more to prevent water from getting in then putting a lot of holes in. I had two holes in mine at the rear under the storage and in the dump valves and I found that spray from the tires in a heavy rain would get water in.

 

[bch]

I have a 2004 NL 9.6. There is a 3/8" drain hole at each rear corner of camper, see attached pic. The owners manual states when off the truck keep the front elevated 2" higher then the rear.

Highly appreciate you taking the time to take a photo. Interesting there is no sort of screen or seal on the hole.

Remember if you can let water out then water can get in. I would do more to prevent water from getting in then putting a lot of holes in. I had two holes in mine at the rear under the storage and in the dump valves and I found that spray from the tires in a heavy rain would get water in.

That was my concern. I suppose if the holes were on the bottom where it sits along the bed of the truck spray would be less of an issue.

 

[redthies]

I have a 2017 NL and there are no drain holes. Get it sealed and keep it sealed.

 

[Geek]

I have a 2019 NL 10.2 LE EX and there are no drain holes from the interior (it is water tight) but the "external storage compartments" do have drains in the bottoms - i.e. generator compartment and propane tank compartments.

 

[stephane.dagenais1970]

I was just in same position as you with my 32 yr old 6"10. Was thinking of doing same vent holes. I forgo that idea on the principale of just reconstructing everything with materials other then cheap ass spruce and watertight everything. At same time I took the 1" xps 20 and put in 1.5" xps 30. Framed with cedar. Glued up with PL adhesive and sandwiched with 1/2" ply and exterior with checker 1/16 reinforced upper/sides with 1/8 checker.
I only did floor, sides/seat and lower side cabinet. Up to date furnace cycling less.
Removed propane fridge and have 12v now. Blocked vent for old fridge and top vent. What a diffrence.
If you pm me, I can send some pics.

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk

 

[stephane.dagenais1970]

Forgot to ask, did you find a leak? These are fishbowls. Usually condensation will accumulate at floor level and rot the wood.
Also the insulation boards will delaminate from the shell.

Sent from my SM-A530W using Tapatalk

 

[redthies]

Forgot to ask, did you find a leak? These are fishbowls. Usually condensation will accumulate at floor level and rot the wood.
Also the insulation boards will delaminate from the shell.

That might be the case with the 32 year old models, but the newer versions have been improved. If you use your propane furnace a lot, you should have a vent open an inch or so to let the humidity that builds up escape. Nothing is perfect, but at least with this style of camper you have a chance at better than average resale, and longevity.

 

[trackhead]

I found the same in my Travelaire (fiberglass clam-shell camper). I just gutted the ENTIRE interior.......

 

[Photomike]

That might be the case with the 32 year old models, but the newer versions have been improved. If you use your propane furnace a lot, you should have a vent open an inch or so to let the humidity that builds up escape. Nothing is perfect, but at least with this style of camper you have a chance at better than average resale, and longevity.

Your propane furnace does not add humidity to your camper. A Buddy or other internally vented units will but a furnace will not. Always good to open vents and windows in the morning to dry out.

 

[redthies]

Your propane furnace does not add humidity to your camper.

I never said it added humidity. Any heat source will increase condensation in a camper. This condensation is, in fact, humidity. It may just be pulling the moisture out of the air, but buy “condensing” the moisture into actual water, it can also “condense” the damage the humidity can do.

 

[trackhead]

I took out all my rotten wood stringers and replaced them with a welded aluminum frame, then filled the spaces with 2" pink foam and laminated with FPS. All that stuff is impervious to water. So if it happens again, it won't rot out the construction.

I'm rebuilding my entire interior (walls/floor) with foam core construction with FRP panels so I can easily keep it clean and never worry about water intrusion rotting wood out. (fixing source of leak obviously)

 

[bch]

Thanks for the advice everyone!

I took out all my rotten wood stringers and replaced them with a welded aluminum frame, then filled the spaces with 2" pink foam and laminated with FPS. All that stuff is impervious to water. So if it happens again, it won't rot out the construction.

I'm rebuilding my entire interior (walls/floor) with foam core construction with FRP panels so I can easily keep it clean and never worry about water intrusion rotting wood out. (fixing source of leak obviously)

Sounds interesting, do you have any interior shots of the construction or end result?