Recovery advise

jhill15

Explorer
I was going to purchase a hitch d ring from ebay http://m.ebay.com/itm/181638231999?nav=SEARCH
0d2bdb297bf635894c2049608e4b9dc9.jpg


Has anyone ever used this particular brand?

Also, someone mentioned to me that I could just remove the ball from my hitch and put a d ring in the place of the ball and it would be the same thing.

Is that safe...

On another note the same person said that I could use the hitch pin and put my snatch strap in the receiver with the pin through it, but I googled that and it sounds like alot of people say no that the pin could bend.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated as im leaving for a trip next friday where I will be doing some offroading.

Thanks in advance everyone!

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Airmapper

Inactive Member
I have one similar that I've used several times. I don't know what brand, I'd assume both mine and that one you link are made in China.

I'd use that instead of removing the ball from a normal receiver, or using a hitch pin alone. It's just a cleaner setup. It holds the shackle firmly in place, no flopping around or misalignment which in turn provides the best possible strength from the shackle. (Angled pulls on the shackle decrease it's strength, having it firmly captured and held in position ensures it will not find an odd position to be pulled from on the pin.)

I see the shackle has stamped ratings on it which is good. I'm sure there are better out there, but that is quite adequate. As far as the receiver insert portion, if it's decent steel, that shackle will bust long before the receiver does anything given the thickness of the metal. Actually this week I drilled a hole in mine to properly position it in my hitch, it appeared to be decent steel, although it's not high grade tool steel or anything.

For typical recovery of normal sized 4x4's that should be fine, I'd definitely use that over something rigged up on the spot like what will happen if you don't have that in your kit.
 

SDDiver5

Expedition Leader
I've used a Chinese version of that for years. Bought it when I was 16 for my Scout II at a swap meet. I still use it on my current truck. I have used it many many times and I've never had a problem with it. I think its better than the other ways you mentioned because its safer. Recovery of a stuck vehicle is dangerous and the other two ways will work but wont be as safe.
 

tarditi

Explorer
I've had a warn one for many many years. In a pinch you can use the receiver pin - just make sure to not try a kinetic recovery (the old "running start") unless your recovery points and strap are set up for this.
Never loop a strap over a tow ball for recovery, of course.
 

SDDiver5

Expedition Leader
One other thing to remember. Don't use your reverse gear to pull someone out. It is not designed for that. Always use a forward gear.
 

Airmapper

Inactive Member
Note this on the HF page:

Maximum load capacity: 10,000 lbs.

On the other one, it says 10,000 but really it's limited by the shackle, a WLL of 4.5 tons, or 9000lbs. WLL is "Working Load Limit" which is nowhere near the breaking point.

Read this:
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/40148-About-shackle-WLL-and-breaking-strength

On the chart there, it says a 3/4 shackle rated at 9500lbs WLL, has a breaking point of 47500lbs. Huge difference.

So, on the HF unit, they claim it will break at 10,000. On the other, it's just a WLL at about 9,000lbs. (Ebay listing is off, but whatever, use the shackle rating.)

I'd never buy recovery equipment at HF, much as I shop there, don't buy anything your life or safety may depend on there.
 

SDDiver5

Expedition Leader
A general rule of thumb regarding Harbor Freight is only buy something there if you plan on using it only once. They are not known for quality.

I'd go to a 4 wheel parts store or whatever type of local off road shop is near you and buy one...or look on amazon and make your best bet as to price/quality.
 
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Antichrist

Expedition Leader
You can get the Smittybilt 29312 for $29 ($30 from Amazon with free shipping). I'd ask the ebay seller what brand it is. If some off brand I'd probably go with the Smitybilt instead.
 

Ducky's Dad

Explorer
I use a Reese hitch D-ring that I got from WalMart, and I think I have seen the same one at Home Depot. It's old enough that I think it was actually made in the USofA, and seems plenty heavy for my big *** Dodge. I wouldn't trust HF for mission critical stuff like this, and just about everything from SmittyBilt is now made in China, so...? Using just a hitch pin might be OK in an emergency, but that only works with small straps.
 

jhill15

Explorer
I try not to buy to many things from harbor freight that have more than one moving part lol. I love harbor freight its just some of their stuff is more like renting tools for one time use lol. So that hitch d ring is out!

I have some shackle washers that would keep my d ring centered if I would have to use my hitch without the ball in it. However im gonna have to wait to order the smittybilt or rugged ridge d ring cause I hopped in my rig and my 4wd lights were flashing so its off to the mitsu service department tomorrow morning.

Thanks everyone!

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Ducky's Dad

Explorer
I try not to buy to many things from harbor freight that have more than one moving part
The dead blow hammers from HF are a great value when on sale. No moving parts at all. Probably why they continue to work.
 

jhill15

Explorer
The dead blow hammers from HF are a great value when on sale. No moving parts at all. Probably why they continue to work.
Lol I have one of those too. I also buy all my sockets, breaker bars, and wrenches from hf. Ive even bought a cement mixer...I haven't used it yet, but so far it works, also pancake air compressor "works great" among other things, however I try to stick to the no more than one moving part hf rule lol. I would like to try out their fluxcore welder but the consensus tell me its worthless.

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