Rear Winch wiring using jumper cables; what am I missing?
- Thread starter 11b4v
- Start date
DaveInDenver
Middle Income Semi-Redneck
Verkstand's is the key point.
Jumper cables lack provenance. Crimping lugs on cable pulled from a spool and calling it "overland winch approved" easily multiplies its value when compared to the same cable having unassuming clamps on the ends instead. But you usually get what you pay for, so caveat emptor.
Jumper cables lack provenance. Crimping lugs on cable pulled from a spool and calling it "overland winch approved" easily multiplies its value when compared to the same cable having unassuming clamps on the ends instead. But you usually get what you pay for, so caveat emptor.
luthj
Engineer In Residence
I have seen quite a few jumper cables that used part, or 100% copper clad aluminum wire (instead of pure copper). Also, not all cables match their advertised gauge (actually circular conductor area). So ensure due diligence.
For a bit of overkill, you can use tinned marine cable. Its very flexible, and has a excellent insulation sheath. Its a bit expensive, at around 3$ per foot for 2AWG.
www.genuinedealz.com
For a bit of overkill, you can use tinned marine cable. Its very flexible, and has a excellent insulation sheath. Its a bit expensive, at around 3$ per foot for 2AWG.
2 AWG Gauge Battery Cable Tinned Copper Marine Wire Black by the foot
2 AWG Gauge Battery Cable Tinned Copper Marine Wire Black by the foot. This item is In Stock with Fast Free Shipping!
www.genuinedealz.com
CampStewart
Observer
I wouldn't trust the insulation on jumper cables to hold up to being out in the elements and a lot of jumper cable wire diameter is not up to what is advertised on the package. I would use welding cable, it is very flexible and the insulation is very robust
Scoutn79
Adventurer
One thing to take into consideration is how long is the run? For a front mounted winch with 3' of cable from the battery to the winch 2ga might work. For the same winch rear mounted may require 16+' of cable and need to be 0 ga. Undersizing a cable is a bad idea.
As mentioned by campstewart above the insulation on low buck cables is cheap at best and will crack in short order. Good jumpers with quality insulation and clamps will cost north of $70 (last I checked years ago maybe more than $100 now)
I use 00 ga (double aught) welding cable for my winch with a 4' run. Overkill but it was free.
Darrell
As mentioned by campstewart above the insulation on low buck cables is cheap at best and will crack in short order. Good jumpers with quality insulation and clamps will cost north of $70 (last I checked years ago maybe more than $100 now)
I use 00 ga (double aught) welding cable for my winch with a 4' run. Overkill but it was free.
Darrell
i used welding cable for my rear winch wiring.i think mine is maybe 3 awg. not positive.it's been a few years.my wife brought it home for me,she ordered an extra 40 ft. "by accident" for the company she manages.it's way overkill,but the price was right.can't see why jumpers wouldn't work other than length or lack thereof.unless you get stuck in deep looong sections alot.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I used a section of 2 gauge jumper cable wire for the main power/ground wire for my rear mounted battery.
It is only about 6 feet from the battery to the main junction post on the frame.
I actually had enough left over out of the jumper cables to still have a decent set of jumper cables with a large Anderson connector.
It is only about 6 feet from the battery to the main junction post on the frame.
I actually had enough left over out of the jumper cables to still have a decent set of jumper cables with a large Anderson connector.
David_h
Member
I’ve modified jumper cables with Anderson connectors. The modified cables will reach the rear hitch mount winch. The front hitch mount winch does not need them as I wired a4 foot lead to military style battery terminals. Have not tried it yet though. I recall that these conductors were all copper looking.
Attachments
Pacific Northwest yetti
Expedition Medic
I have also modified Jumper cables with Anderson connectors, so far all holding up well( have been under my flatbed for a few months). I crimped, soldered and shrunk tube the connections for a tight fit. 4 Guage, made sure the wire was solid copper. I did the same for my dual battery set up, 200k miles ago....
Herbie
Rendezvous Conspirator
Just as a counter-point, all of the wiring for my house battery, from the ACR to the battery in the rear of the van, are 2-Gauge jumper cables. I purchased them locally, so I could open the box and inspect the strands (visible at the gator clamps) and verify that they were of appropriate construction.
Aside from chopping off the clamps, I also split the two cables apart, so that I could wrap each cable with an abrasive-resistant guard for the entire "outside/underbody" run. A fuzzy closeup:
I'm not sure what "overland winch approved" is supposed to guarantee, but these have served perfectly since 2011 with zero issues.
Aside from chopping off the clamps, I also split the two cables apart, so that I could wrap each cable with an abrasive-resistant guard for the entire "outside/underbody" run. A fuzzy closeup:
I'm not sure what "overland winch approved" is supposed to guarantee, but these have served perfectly since 2011 with zero issues.
robert
Expedition Leader
If you have a local scrap metal place, go by and ask if they have welding cable or forklift cable. Occasionally they get in runs of the stuff and since you're doing a custom job and will be installing your own ends, it's cheaper. You can also check welding shops and another option is forklift service/repair places; the one here will build new custom cables if they aren't busy. The local service truck sale place also sells all manner of cables and accesories and will make custom cables.
Years ago when I bought jumper cables I did the same as others here and made sure they were copper strand then lopped off one set of clamps and put an Anderson connector on. I've had to chenge the clamps once but I've had them over twenty years now.
Years ago when I bought jumper cables I did the same as others here and made sure they were copper strand then lopped off one set of clamps and put an Anderson connector on. I've had to chenge the clamps once but I've had them over twenty years now.
