Rear outlet always on, looking for a thread

bikerjosh

Explorer
Can someone point me in the direction for a thread on switching the rear outlet to always on? Wanted it to power a fridge on an upcoming trip when the Montero is off. Wondering if there is a way to do this w/out running a new dedicated from battery? I seem to remember someone on a different forum using a wire to act as a 'jumper' between an always on circuit and the accessory circuit to power it.
thanks Josh
 

Saguache

Adventurer
Easiest way is to trace the line back to the ignition console for the ACC power. Find the wire color and then switch the rear line to that with a tap.

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nckwltn

Explorer
Can someone point me in the direction for a thread on switching the rear outlet to always on? Wanted it to power a fridge on an upcoming trip when the Montero is off. Wondering if there is a way to do this w/out running a new dedicated from battery? I seem to remember someone on a different forum using a wire to act as a 'jumper' between an always on circuit and the accessory circuit to power it.
thanks Josh
I'm guessing that without the Montero pushing more than 12 volts from the alternator, there won't be enough capacity in the small wires running to the rear outlet to power the fridge. There is a lot of power loss in DC.

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Salonika

Monterror Pilot
This is out there somewhere, with a few creative solutions. I couldn't find anything either but I didn't look very long. I'd first check the fuse size before I did anything else to see how many amps Mitsu set that circuit up to handle. See what your fridge requires and go from there.
 

nckwltn

Explorer
Take a look at the FSM page 90-111 (page 116 of the PDF that I've got)

It looks like both front and rear accessory sockets are are activated by the accessory socket relay..... if you wanted to get crazy, locate the relay, and then jump pins 1 and 3 with heavy wire that will then run power directly to both accessory sockets...

Looks like the accessory sockets have a 15 amp fuse on them... FSM says it's fuse number 14.... guessing that the relay is in the junction box near the battery.

or... another, even better idea.... add a 2nd relay that is only activated by a switch.... and have that relay do the jump between pin 1 and 3... then, you'd have power anytime the switch is on, or anytime the car is running..... and you don't have to worry about feeding 12 volts back into systems that might have parasitic drain.

Ok.... just noticed this in the FSM.... on the same circuit as the accessory sockets, and branching off of the front socket is the lighting monitor/key reminder/seat belt warning buzzer, heated seats, heater??, and the rear diff lock system. I'd be most worried about the drain on the batter from the heated seats if you did add a relay that made those hot....

I guess you could add another relay on the circuit that branches off the front accessory socket so that the list of things I noted about is only active when the key is in the right position....


anyway... look on page 90-111, you'll see it.... the earlier pages in section 90 tell you where the junction boxes are located.
 

nckwltn

Explorer
Ok... look at 90-11, you'll see that the junction block (marked J/B on 90-111) is the main fuse block under the dash on driver's side. accessory relay is just above the fuse area on the left side.


that would make it super easy to add a relay or jumper the pins to always send power through..... Looking at the wiring diagram on 90-111, I would think that the circuit running to the heated seats and other items is under the center console, but it's not too difficult to consult the 90-* pages and find the connector, and then look at the diagrams early in the 90s to find out where those connectors are located.
 

nckwltn

Explorer
Looking at 90-111 a little further, I think that all of those items I noted above (heated seats, etc), just share the same ground with the accessory socket... so jumping the relay or adding a 2nd relay I don't think will provide power to any of those items..... was confused by the dashed line that connects before and after the accessory socket on the diagram.
 

bikerjosh

Explorer
Thanks Nick for all the leg work. I'm still looking into the transmission issue by the way.
I'll check out the relay/wiring this week.
 

nckwltn

Explorer
Thanks Nick for all the leg work. I’m still looking into the transmission issue by the way.
I’ll check out the relay/wiring this week.
It looks easy enough that I might try to make it happen myself!

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nckwltn

Explorer
If the outlets are on a 15 amp fuse, I'm thinking that a switch rated at 20 amps that bypasses the relay might just do the trick.

Still skeptical that there will be enough power making it to the rear to overcome the low voltage cutoff of the fridge when the car isn't running...

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Salonika

Monterror Pilot
Your fuse will decide that for you. If the circuit is on a 15a fuse I'd bet you'll get close to that at the back.
 
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