"Reacher"; A multi-purpose trailer build from Nerve Foundry by Spvrtan

Spvrtan

Member
I posted a while back about starting a build for a trailer design that I think is extremely unique and -- from my research across American and Australian trailer companies -- hasn't been done before (ie. going to try and patent the concept if necessary). If all goes according to plan with the prototype, then hopefully I can market it and build these on the side as a hobby for supplemental income but I won't be quitting my job anytime soon.

Well, I finally got around to starting it two weeks ago on my spare time. I'll keep this thread updated as much as possible but feel free to follow along on Instagram: @nervefoundry.

As a precursor, I am just a dude with sub-amateur fabrication skills that likes to make ****. I'm mostly a keyboard warrior by day as a work-from-home full-time software engineer. To add, due to my love of making random ****, I also made a free web app a few months ago that helps people document their builds; check out my Tundra's build page here:
http://buildprint.io/builds/3.pluto?v=m

Goals:
- Handle real offroad abuse apart from dirt roads.
- Standing room yet low-profile to address wind resistance.
- Multiple functions, such as using it for camping, hauling things around town
- Easy to clean and maintain.
- Solid construction and no fabrics to tear.
- Targeted toward the more "DIY" owner that wants to make the trailer "their own" via modular mounting options both inside and outside of the trailer.

The last item means that as a requirement the design has to be simple, strong, and spacious. The idea was, like the Go Fast Campers or Vagabond Outdoors truck campers, be an outdoors utility that can be taken anywhere yet withstand rugged abuse.

Amenities:
- Filtered water system inclusive of an interior sink and shower.
- Solar electric system.

I wanted to keep the trailer free of other items, such as a kitchenware, to keep costs low while letting people outfit those themselves; also will be minimal on excessive shelving/storage but modular add-ons are accounted for in the design.

Design:
- 5'x10' Enclosed box with swing down/up ramp/door.
- Steel frames and aluminum walls.
- Interior full-size bed roughly 5' wide and 6' long.
- Plenty of benches and tables inside (ie. rough sketch shows fitting 6-8 adults comfortably and based off me at 5'9" at 165lbs)
- Roof rack.
- Frame built out of structural shapes, such as channel, angle, and tee, for some weight savings but mostly to help with rust management.
- Tongue box with miniature roof rack ..though the electric system would take up most of the space.
- Water tanks under the frame.
- Optional interior storage boxes.
- Optional "slider" storage boxes.

The best part of my design will be unveiled in the future but it's hopefully patentable. Again, I haven't seen any trailers yet with my idea but there is one company that shares the general vision but are a step or two away. They were at Overland Expo West and seeing their trailer in person definitely gave me a boost of confidence in realizing my idea was very much possible.

Third-party products planned:
- Timbren half-axles with electric brakes.
- AT Overland coupler

I plan on modifying the half-axles with a long-arm type augmentation with optional dampening shocks for more clearance, travel, and handling boosts.

The prototype will be a little "extra" compared to what a basic version of the trailer might be because it's going to be pulled by my Tundra that's on 40s. So, naturally, the trailer will have matching 40s.

For those curious about my Tundra; check out my Instagram: @spvrtan
 
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ottsville

Observer
I have been excited to see this build since your teaser a few months back and have lots of questions but I'll hold off on them for now.

It's nice to see a build with channel finally.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
Would be great if the important details are also documented in writing.

For those that don't watch videos nor do social.
 

Spvrtan

Member
Would be great if the important details are also documented in writing.

For those that don't watch videos nor do social.
Yea, I plan on doing both. It's just easier sometimes to do a quick social media post but I'll try and keep everything here in more detail, too.
 

Spvrtan

Member
Why channel and angle instead of tube? You really should have coped the cross members to fit inside the channel side rails. What's with the two channels down the middle? Spring attachment?
Channel typically has weight savings but the fact that I'm using 3/16" channel versus the usual 1/8" tube kind of minimizes the difference. The main benefit of channel and angle is rust management. I know it'd probably be years of humidity for a tube to rust from the inside out but structural shapes just make it easier to spot rusting areas. Another benefit is it allows hoses and wires to be ran under the frame easier and somewhat shielded.

The two channels down the middle are both support beams and will be where boxes bolt to from the side (ie. going to have storage units under the trailer.
 

d110pickup

SE Expedition Society
Do yourself a favor and chamfer or radius every corner and sharp edge, especially those longitudinal channels on the bottom. The first time you slide under that trailer and snag skin you will be pissed!
Also It doesn't look to me (and I may be wrong) that you're welds aren't penetrating, there's no discernible HAZ on the side opposite a bead.
I'm speaking from 38 years of manufacturing experience.
Good Luck,
Mike
 

Spvrtan

Member
I was originally wanting to do aluminum for the whole cab but now I think I'm just going to do a hybrid approach. The top half will be aluminum for weight savings and durability since it also functions as the outer shell when closed. The bottom half will be plywood for durability, and strength but also because it can easily be replaced or modified (ie. drilling holes into it for some future additions).

Now I need to figure out what type of plywood to get. For the sizes, I'm thinking 3/4" thick for the floor and 1/4" thick for the walls. I was going to seal the wood but need to figure out what to use for that, too. The floor piece is going to be covered in rolled truck bed liner on the inside. I think for the underside of the floor I'm just going to coat it with some truck underside liner (ie. that rubber stuff).
 
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