And you haven't posted pics why? Lol !! That's awesome!
Rango.....1942 Willys MB
- Thread starter Metcalf
- Start date
And you haven't posted pics why? Lol !! That's awesome!
bishopdunn
Observer
Great thread, did you use a backup piece of metal when you welded the hood and wheel well extensions?
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
No backing plate in those areas. I did use a copper backer on some of the hole repair sections.
bishopdunn
Observer
Thanks. I'm lengthening my MB 8" CJ6 style but will probably utilize an 18ga. back piece on the undercarriage and inside the sides. I'm also adding additional bracing across the extension.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I would recommend getting LOTS of these little clamps....very very handy!
Edit: link....
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-butt-welding-clamps-44751.html
Edit: link....
http://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-butt-welding-clamps-44751.html
bishopdunn
Observer
I saw them in one of your earlier posts. Brilliant! I picked up a bunch hand have already tried them on the floor pan. I will be borrowing several more of your tricks as the build progresses. Thanks for the thread.
bishopdunn
Observer
Are you starting another thread for the EJS pics?
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
I started a thread here...
http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/76625-Easter-JEEP-Safari-picture-thread-2012
I was too busy gawking at all the cool stuff to get any decent pictures of my little flat fender. I about lost my voice talking to people about it however!
jeepdreamer
Expedition Leader
njtacoma
Explorer
his build reminds me of this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T90FP59Gw2Y
I always wanted one in my youth, now I want one like Metcalf's.
I always wanted one in my youth, now I want one like Metcalf's.
Last edited:
jalbrecht55
Member
A spare tire full of lead shot hanging off the back would probably do it.
Metcalf
Expedition Leader
Update....
Picture for scale. You can also see the windshield is now attached. I need to make some rubber bumpers on the top to set the angle relative to the A-pillar since the windshield isn't exactly straight after 70 years.
I had a small disagreement with the rear output seal on the transfer case. I won! Then I cleaned everything up and added a new Timken seal. I think this has cured the leak at the rear yoke....
Then I rigged up a ramp with some 2x10's and tried to get the suspension to twist up a bit. It worked. For new springs I don't think its that bad. I have a few areas that need some attention....
I'm eating up most of the front shock travel. They are just a hair over 9" of travel units. No contact anywhere which is good. I think I need to add a small limiting strap or cable or something for droop. As the springs get worn in I suspect I will see a little bit more travel.
Max compression on the front right now. I need to add bumpstops all around to prevent spring and shock damage. For new springs I am pretty happy with the results....especially cheap $84 each springs.
The tie_rod passes the pitman arm on compression. I need a pitman arm with slightly less drop ( basically flat ) and slightly longer to gain a little steering knuckle travel I lost with the new steering box.
In the rear I need to trim here or move the axle forward about 1/2". I will be trimming. I also need to weld in some round rod onto the edge since the tire gets that close.
I will be installing a 1" longer rear shackle to get the spring away from the bumper. The rear shocks use just about all there compression travel. I have about 1/2" left. The rear axle needs bumpstops too. And limiting straps or something.
Overall for no frame flex at all as far as I could tell, it flexes pretty decent for a little pile of junk and cheap leaf springs still spring under.
I just about threw the holley 2bbl across the yard yesterday. I am going to rebuild the motorcraft/autolite I picked up and stick that on. If that doesn't work I might be able to be talked into TBI or something else.
Picture for scale. You can also see the windshield is now attached. I need to make some rubber bumpers on the top to set the angle relative to the A-pillar since the windshield isn't exactly straight after 70 years.
I had a small disagreement with the rear output seal on the transfer case. I won! Then I cleaned everything up and added a new Timken seal. I think this has cured the leak at the rear yoke....
Then I rigged up a ramp with some 2x10's and tried to get the suspension to twist up a bit. It worked. For new springs I don't think its that bad. I have a few areas that need some attention....
I'm eating up most of the front shock travel. They are just a hair over 9" of travel units. No contact anywhere which is good. I think I need to add a small limiting strap or cable or something for droop. As the springs get worn in I suspect I will see a little bit more travel.
Max compression on the front right now. I need to add bumpstops all around to prevent spring and shock damage. For new springs I am pretty happy with the results....especially cheap $84 each springs.
The tie_rod passes the pitman arm on compression. I need a pitman arm with slightly less drop ( basically flat ) and slightly longer to gain a little steering knuckle travel I lost with the new steering box.
In the rear I need to trim here or move the axle forward about 1/2". I will be trimming. I also need to weld in some round rod onto the edge since the tire gets that close.
I will be installing a 1" longer rear shackle to get the spring away from the bumper. The rear shocks use just about all there compression travel. I have about 1/2" left. The rear axle needs bumpstops too. And limiting straps or something.
Overall for no frame flex at all as far as I could tell, it flexes pretty decent for a little pile of junk and cheap leaf springs still spring under.
I just about threw the holley 2bbl across the yard yesterday. I am going to rebuild the motorcraft/autolite I picked up and stick that on. If that doesn't work I might be able to be talked into TBI or something else.