R50 Pathfinder Progression/Trip Thread


Thanks allof75. Unfortunately the shop I took it to was not, although they were happy to take my money. I will update once resolved.


Thanks allof75. Unfortunately the shop I took it to was not, although they were happy to take my money. I will update once resolved.
My condolences, I have some well documented battles with a terrible mechanic I once used. $1500 later, I was beyond livid. Hopefully you get it resolved.


This battle shouldn't be too eventful, they have agreed to re attempt the alignment with a different tech and if it doesn't work refund my money. Cliff notes are as follows:

Me: can you align my truck, I just put a lift on and need to get the camber back in spec, I installed camber bolts.

Shop: no problem

Me: did everything come out good?
Shop: yes
Me: can I see alignment printout? Why is camber the same after as before??
Shop: well you see we don't really have the right machine and your car doesn't spec adjustable camber, you will have to take it to another location 30 mins away if you want it right.

Me: umm...okay(I had already paid and was In a hurry). Left shop and steering wheel not even strait.

So, made a phone call today and they Agreed to look at it and fix or refund. Hoping they can just fix it...


That's not too bad then, I believe with mine they were to get it within factory specs with just a little camber. No effect on tire wear.


"Steering wheel not straight" is easy to fix yourself, and it's usually caused by toe not being set correctly. You will need a 13mm open-end wrench and an adjustable wrench (or whatever size open-end wrench fits on the tie rod lock nuts).

Find an obstruction-free, level surface to park on. As you park, straighten the steering wheel. Try not to turn it after you've stopped.

Get out of the truck, squat down in front of the truck and look towards the back of the truck, visually lining up the front and back sidewalls of the front tire with the sidewall of the back tire. You are attempting to draw an imaginary line touching the front and back sidewalls of both the front and rear tires.

If the toe is in spec, the front and back sidewalls of the front tires should line up with the sidewalls of the rear tires. You should barely be able to see the rear tires while simultaneously seeing the front and back sidewalls of the front tires.

If you line up the front and back sidewalls of the front tire, and you can see the tread of the rear tire, then the front is toed out. If you can't see the rear tires, then the front is toed in.

To adjust toe, loosen the large nut on the tie rod. Using the 13mm wrench, rotate the tie rod until the front/rear sidewalls of the front tire line up with the rear tires. Repeat for both sides of the vehicle.

Tighten the tie rod lock nuts when done.


I'd rather just make the guys fix it that didn't get it straight the first time. Plus, there is no way I can eyeball it well enough to prevent tire wear, not to mention I hate the tendency of cars to dart while braking that have too much front toe-in.

We are supposed to get another 6 inches of snow on Thursday, so I guess we will see if they are able to fix it then or if we will have to reschedule.

I also developed a clunking from my rear sway bar link(driver's side) today. I'm trying to decide if i'm going to remove the thing altogether or if i'm going to replace the links....decisions decisions...


Picked up nasty vibration above 30mph when in 4wd after the lift. Any ideas? Logic tells me must be cv axle but then I remind myself this is an automobile and logic doesn't apply.....


Semper Fi
As said on NPORA, CV axle(s).
Did you put spacers on top of your struts with the AC lift? If so, take em out until the springs settle down. Or, someone on NPORA made limiting straps, if your handy could make some to effectively lower the front lift until they settle.

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I did not install the spacer(yet). I placed an order for some manual hubs today, so I think I will buy one used oem cv shaft and see if the vibration goes away. I have an aftermarket pep boys cheapest they sold one in the right front currently, so for now I'm blaming it. In the snow today the vibration actually wasn't bad, of course it could have been because my bull bar had 6" of snow packed between it and the bumper to weigh the front down!

I'm about to take it on the most severe off road trip it has likely ever seen, so we will see how it all holds up.


Quick update: after the shop tried again to align it, it still isn't right. I'll live with it until after I install one new(used oem) axle to replace previously installed pep boys axle, and I will replace ball joints at the same time.

I also found I've got some cancer brewing under both rear fender flares, so that is going to me my most urgent priority.

I did decide to remove the step bars, looks much better now. I'll post some pictures and a trip log after next weekend.


They can't seem to get the steering wheel straight, it was left now it is right. The caster is out and they say it's not adjustable. It is "difficult" to drive on the highway-just doesn't feel right, it feels like the steering wheel won't fully center, it is always drifting slight left or slight right, unless I straighten it out myself and then it will stay straight forever. I still have positive camber and they say they can't adjust it out any further.

In a nutshell, something isn't "right". I suspect the caster is causing me issues, thoughts?

Edit: alignment sheet states-

Left front:
-camber .65(green)
-caster 1.95(red)
-toe .07(green)
Right front:
-camber .24(green)
-caster 2.55(green)
-toe .06(green)

Total toe .14 (green)
Steer ahead .01 (green)
Last edited:


Semper Fi
Caster is not adjustable on the R50.
Camber, rockauto and other places sell the camber bolts with up to 2_2.5° of adjustment. May need those.
As for the steering wheel not centering. Sounds like a the rack and pinion. With that, what shape are your rack mount bushings in? If those are worn. You will always have a left or right wander as the rack shifts left or right on a load. If they are suspect. Just replace them. They are very cheap $10-13 each. Are very easy to change out.
Good fluid in the power steering? Remember you have to use Nissan fluid or swap it completely for Nissan compatible transmission fluid. Most of us swap it for the tranny fluid. Cheaper and easier to get.
Also some wander may be the tires. On mobile so I don't know what you are running.

Sent from my Moto X


Thanks. I have upper camber bolts already installed, maybe I need to install lower as well?

With regard to the rack, I suppose it's possible but you'd think I would have noticed that before the lift, I had the exact same tires on before the lift and it drove fine. In fact the steering wheel was strait too until the first alignment...

I'll bring it to a different shop of the same chain and let them give it a go after I swap over the rest of the components. At 15.00 it may be cheap insurance just to do the rack bushings anyways...


Semper Fi
Ok. Same tires then. The fact that it seems to not want to auto center. Makes me think its something to do with the rack. Either it has a seal going, which makes it weak; because it bleeding off pressure. Or the bushings are letting it slide side to side.