Questions about trailer solar systems and charging off the tow vehicle, and shore power

Ah, thank you. I'm usually pretty good with acronyms, but as has been made clear, I've strayed out of my area.

So would anyone care to point me to a quality shore charger that would be more suitable? Brand names to look for? Most of the quick search stuff on Amazon looks cheaper or shadier than what I have...I gather I'm looking for something AGM profile capable (whether I go that route or not) and of sufficient amperage, preferably that would plug into my system where the current one is? (I don't care about the mounting holes, I just mean something plug and play as far as how it connects).
 

dreadlocks

Well-known member
Sterling Power or ProNautic units are really nice, and adjustable if your bank requires something unique.
 

dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Iota DLS with the appropriate IQ control dongle. Probably the IQ-AGM variant. 30a minumum, 45a-55a max if (if you want to be able to run it from a 2kw genset or some clapped out and probably overloaded campsite shore power hookup).
 

john61ct

Adventurer
ProMariner Pronautic P series

shares the same motherboard with the ProCharge Ultra

Both are great, and yes the user-custom setpoints are great for future proof.

PowerMax PMBC apparently

Victron, Magnum, MasterVolt are top-notch but pricey

Iota DLS-X w/ IQ4 option

Progressive Dynamics
 
Thanks for all the tips...Bit of a rabbit hole I've fallen into but I think I can sort it out.

To clarify...this is a charger system for the battery, not an inverter/charger. Can I still keep the inverter for the AC outlets and USB ports? or are they mutually exclusive somehow?

ETA: I kinda like this one, but I might get the helm remote since I wouldn't be able to see it when mounted...

https://www.amazon.com/Mariner-Naut...6P1F5JXBS09&psc=1&refRID=1HESQ42GB6P1F5JXBS09

But this one seems right, for about half the price...difference being water resistance/marine application?

https://www.amazon.com/DLS-55-AUTOM...s=iota+dls45&qid=1558114645&s=gateway&sr=8-10
 
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dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Yes, keep the inverter for inverting, but don't feed it shore power so it doesn't try to charge the battery.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
You've received decades of knowledge/wisdom from good people.

My $0.0002 would be to choose the battery type and number of Ah (amp hours) leaving room for expansion then choose a charger that suits the battery manufacturer's charging specs.

FYI......I have a bank of Crown batteries. Crown charge specs is different in that the it uses a lower charge voltage along with the 4th (equalization) stage (5 stages for FLA(flooded lead acid) are bulk - absorption - float - equalization - storage/maintain) of charging more than other brands. A Victron inverter/charger+solar (can not be programmed to the charge specs) and/a ProNautic (can be programmed to the specs) charger is used to maintain the bank.

Lithium has 2 charging stages, bulk and float.

Once the battery charger is purchase then buy the smallest generator available that will run the charger.
 

peekay

Adventurer
I have two Lifeline 6v batteries on my trailer. The prior owner installed them. I do not see any benefit whatsover. In fact, the downside is that because they are so expensive, I feel relunctant to discharge them as deeply as I would if I had Costco 6v. Waste of money. Just get the FLA and be done with it. AGMs are for posers.
 
Ok, I traced some wires this morning and I have a better understanding of a couple of things. Sorry the pics are so bad, my phone and the dark don't mix.

516633

The picture above is the back of my inverter. The plug in the top right corner is marked AC Input and the wire comes from the outlet box that is in turn wired to the shore power outlet (inlet?). Unhooking that plug should prevent the inverter from trying to charge off shore power, I think. The wires on the left run to the main battery cutoff switch. Those will stay, so the inverter can draw from the battery to power the outlets on the front of the inverter as well as the external outlet on the trailer.

516634

This is the front of the inverter. The cord you see runs down to the external trailer power outlet I mentioned above. So that stays in place.

I will need to mount the new charger, someplace I can see the indicators, run wire from the shore power to the charger, and leads from the charger to the battery.

516635

This is the external power outlet. The larger cable runs to the shore power connector. The smaller two run to the front and back of the inverter, as described above.

516636

From tracing wires from here I've determined that three things are connected directly to the bank.

The largest wires go to the main battery cutoff switch, the big round black object top left. That in turn runs the switches for the lights, water pump, and unused aux. connections.

The smaller wires go to the solar controller, which then connects to the panel. Which leads me to believe that the solar connects directly to the bank, regulated by the controller, all the time and regardless of the setting of the main battery cutoff switch.

The last thing connected directly to the bank is a wire that goes into the main compartment for a tiny LED compartment light. Basically so I can rummage around without unlocking the electrical compartment. It was clearly an afterthought.

Ok technically there is a fourth thing directly off the bank. The negative terminal is grounded.

All the positive wires connect to the positive stud on the first battery. A heavy gauge wire, maybe a 2 or 4, runs from the first battery's negative terminal to the second battery's positive terminal. The negative and ground wires connect to the second battery's negative terminal.

Just for entertainment, here's a picture of our overall setup, full battle-rattle.

516640

Just the trailer...

516641

And a gratuitous shot from a campground near Moab.

516642

(ETA: I mentioned this was a prototype...Originally the product line was going to be called Basecamp, but then they realized that there are multiple product lines called Base Camp or some variation...so they changed to Borderland before they went into production. The prototype was later auctioned off for a Boy Scout fundraiser. I bought it from the auction winner for a fraction of what the production models sell for...They look amazing but I'm putting two kids through college here).
 
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dwh

Tail-End Charlie
Seems right. Dunno what shore charger you're going to use, but at least with an Iota I don't see any need to be able to see the blinky lights. Bury it and forget it.

While you're in there you might want to add a battery monitor, but if the solar controller has a screen and you can see it, you can read voltage from that, which can tell you quite a bit once you get a feel for it.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
I have two Lifeline 6v batteries on my trailer. The prior owner installed them. I do not see any benefit whatsover. In fact, the downside is that because they are so expensive, I feel relunctant to discharge them as deeply as I would if I had Costco 6v. Waste of money. Just get the FLA and be done with it.

Yes, people who are not willing to properly care for their bank to get longevity, or just don't care about that as a goal at all,

should just get the lowest cost - but quality, designed for deep cycling - FLAs available, like Duracell / Deka GCs.

AGMs only make economic sense for those where they are appropriate, or even required for that use case.
 

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