Questions about trailer solar systems and charging off the tow vehicle, and shore power

[Pastryslayer]

So...Last night I hooked everything up. I elected to run the charger and solar to the battery, and everything else to the main cutoff switch. The monitor is working and networked with the MPPT. Both updated themselves through the app (or the app updated itself, I'm not sure). Point is, everything seems to be communicating.

When I went to bed last night the monitor said the battery charge was 100%. When I checked it this morning it's down to 88% and shows a 3 AMP draw (I assume that's draw on the monitor) even when everything is off...Does the monitor pull THAT much power? (This was off shore power, I wanted to see how it held overnight). If the MPPT draws form the battery maybe I should run it through the switch too.

The only thing I changed in the app setting was to correct the amp capacity of the battery. Wondering if I need to tinker with settings or zero something out. The manual isn't terribly helpful in terms of explaining it so I can understand it.

 

[john61ct]

best to ask in that CF thread, more experienced members including Maine Sail and @witzall from Balmar also participates

You should have a clamp ammeter for diagnostics anyway, see exactly what's pulling that load

 

[carbon60]

So...Last night I hooked everything up. I elected to run the charger and solar to the battery, and everything else to the main cutoff switch. The monitor is working and networked with the MPPT. Both updated themselves through the app (or the app updated itself, I'm not sure). Point is, everything seems to be communicating.

When I went to bed last night the monitor said the battery charge was 100%. When I checked it this morning it's down to 88% and shows a 3 AMP draw (I assume that's draw on the monitor) even when everything is off...Does the monitor pull THAT much power? (This was off shore power, I wanted to see how it held overnight). If the MPPT draws form the battery maybe I should run it through the switch too.

The only thing I changed in the app setting was to correct the amp capacity of the battery. Wondering if I need to tinker with settings or zero something out. The manual isn't terribly helpful in terms of explaining it so I can understand it.

Do you happen to have a DC clamp meter?

Maybe the 3A shown is solar input?

 

[PSea]

best to ask in that CF thread, more experienced members including Maine Sail and @witzall from Balmar also participates

You should have a clamp ammeter for diagnostics anyway, see exactly what's pulling that load

Yup! Well aware of their contributions. Just wanted to shine a light on a new BM that appears to differentiate itself in a very good way.

 

[dwh]

Anyone using the new balmar sg200 battery monitor? Looks very good. I'm leaning towards this when I begin overhauling my electrical system.

SG200 Battery Monitor - Balmar

SG200 Battery Monitor Balmar’s Expandable, Next Generation Monitor Learns & Displays All Critical Battery Parameters State of Charge (SoC%) State of Health (SoH%) Charge/Discharge Current Flow Time Remaining History, Faults & Alerts Support for All Common Battery Chemistries & Voltages Including...

www.balmar.net

Very interesting discussions here:

Balmar Smartgauge Battery Monitoring Unit - Marine How To

The Balmar Smartgauge Site Plug: Please help support MarineHowTo.com by purchasing from us. MarineHowTo.com cannot remain free without reader support. This site is 100% reader supported! Shop MarineHowTo.com (LINK) PREFACE: This article is quite in-depth but

marinehowto.com

Testing the Balmar SG200 Self-Learning Battery Monitor - Marine How To

The New Balmar SG200 A Self Learning Battery Monitor Site Plug:This site is 100% reader supported!AFILLIATE DISCLAIMER BUY SG200 & ACCESSORIES - AMAZON The

marinehowto.com

Balmar SG-200 Battery Monitor - Cruisers & Sailing Forums

New version of Balmar Battery Monitor SG200 Battery Monitor | Balmar Look for " Click Here to Download the SG200 Battery Monitor Manual" State of Charge (SoC%) State of Health (SoH%) Charge/D

www.cruisersforum.com

I replied to this then noticed that I was thinking of the older Balmar battery monitor. This appears to be basically the older SmartGuage algorithmic battery monitor, with a shunt added.

Combining the best of both types - algorithmic and shunt.

'Bout time.

 

[dwh]

Manual says the monitor draw milliamps. I highly doubt it's drawing 3a.

 

[dwh]

And the MPPT draws from the battery, but again, not that much.

I think you've got a new rig not yet dialed in and calibrated....but still...3a...

By any chance was that inverter turned on and idling?

 

[dwh]

I would run the Iota through a full cycle and then tell the monitor the bank was at 100%. Lead-acid batteries do "break-in" so you might have to do that a few times before everything settles down.

 

[Pastryslayer]

I had specifically turned off the main switch so the inverter couldn't do that...assuming I hooked them up right.

When you say through a full cycle, are we talking about running the batteries down and charging them back up? Or just getting to full charge and then telling the monitor it's at 100%?

 

[dwh]

Full charge/absorb. Wouldn't hurt to run em down once then full charge.

 

[john61ct]

Two separate issues.

A. The SG-200 will require many operating cycles to "learn" your bank, getting more and more accurate as it does. It can only do so drawing the bank down past say 30-40% SoC and then back to Full, say a couple dozen cycles.

Obviously it needs to be installed and configured correctly, and keep it powered on all the time or you start over.

B. A new lead deep-cycle bank should follow a specific commission charging process, and go through a breaking in period, just like a new engine, in order to reach full capacity in the first say 30-60 cycles.

Most people just start using it.

 

[Alloy]

B. A new lead deep-cycle bank should follow a specific commission charging process, and go through a breaking in period, just like a new engine, in order to reach full capacity in the first say 30-60 cycles.

I've asked for the commissioning specs for the last 3 banks (Crown, Trojan, Rolls) I've installed and been told there isn't any. Rolls told me to use them.

 

[john61ct]

Yes, just using them works just fine, but properly commissioning - for those with the time, gear and knowledge, will lead to reaching peak capacity sooner and overall longer cycle lifetimes.

Very similar process to doing a 20-hour capacity load test, but does not require that degree of precision control nor measuring Ah.

But for those wanting that initial benchmark anyway for later comparison as SoH requires, they can be performed at the same time.

Ah capacity is rarely as great as maker claims, so an accurate number makes your SoC readings that much more accurate as well.

SG-200 claims to give SoH readings accurately as well over time, but it is such a new model and that feature so novel, we do not yet know just how well it works for each different battery type.

Maine Sail says it is pretty good for LFP so far.

 

[john61ct]

Oh, and commissioning procedure is the same for all lead banks, just like 20-hour load testing

not specific to any one vendor.

 

[Alloy]

Oh, and commissioning procedure is the same for all lead banks, just like 20-hour load testing

not specific to any one vendor.

Anything on paper would be great see.

As to 20h load testing.....the last one I did at the manufacturers stated rate had the batteries at 11.9v in 7 hours.