Question about 99 4.0l

[bldeagle10]

why is it so hard to find parts for the 99 4.0? flipping through the mopar catalog and most other catalogs they are specific about years which is understandable, but they generally go 91-98, 00-01 (specific to the Cherokee, they are also specific as to what Jeep it came in, i.e. Grand Cherokee zj wj, Cherokee xj Wrangler yj tj.... anyways, they always skip 99 for some reason, why is that? I can't find what I want, the only one that makes slight sense is the gasket set because the intake on the 99 is different? or so I've heard. but isnt the intake in the 99 the same as 00-01 for the XJ at least?

what about the 99 is so different the don't have parts listed for it?!? it is irritating.

 

[jeepdreamer]

Because 99 is a "change over" year. Makes it really hard (as your discovering) to just walk into the auto parts store and get what you need. There are some minor and semi-major diffs between models and applications. Where as a YJ or TJ has a decent amount of room under the hood, an XJ or ZJ doesn't. So often things get changed/redesigned at the factory to make it work. First example to come to mind is the oil filter position. On some models it simply exits down at about a 20* angle. On some it does a 90* turn to the rear to clear the motor mount. Generally speaking, a lot of these things will interchange provided you have space. But don't quote me on that as gospel... Jeeps have some oddball facets sometimes.

 

[Bodo]

What exactly are you looking for? Nothing really changed for the 99 XJ 4.0 The 99 GC changed over to the distributorless ignition system, 0331 Head and new intake the XJ followed in 2000. 2000 is when things get strange: new block casting and a whole lot of external changes.

 

[bldeagle10]

mine has the 90* angle filter, pain in the *** when changing the oil, impossible to avoid a mess really.... anyways.
basically I am at 330,000 miles and have been thinking about a rebuild just to really make sure everything is in tip top shape. it runs strong but a lot needs to be replaced as far as electrical and sensors go. trying to browse through catalogs is becoming a pain...

 

[Bodo]

I work at NAPA. If you need part numbers, let me know

 

[reece146]

At 330,000 miles do a compression test. If it doesn't read between what the FSM says are appropriate values then think about a rebuild. Otherwise don't waste your money.

2¢

 

[bldeagle10]

I'm waiting on my pops to grab the leak down gauge and right fitting for his compression gauge. as soon as I have those I will be running both tests ASAP. I at least want to do the head, I will be hand port and polishing it myself, roller rockers, basic clean up of the head, clean up any casting issues, clean the valves off. lap the valves, probably have it thermal baked or sonic cleaned and throw a fresh coat of engine enamel on it to make it all purty... I am also thinking about the rod bearings and lifters just because the lifters are known issues and the bearings are heavy wear items.. I at least want to look at them since I need a new rear main seal anyways and the pan will be off.

Thank you Bodo, I will keep that in mind!