Proper shock length

cr500taco

Adventurer
I cycled my rear suspension on my '97 Tacoma with the shocks off and took some measurements, because I will be getting new shocks, eventually and I want to make sure I get the correct ones. The truck is lifted about 2.5" all the way around and has custom Deaver leaf packs in the rear.

The drivers side measured 17.5" compressed and about 22.5" extended. The passenger side measured 19" compressed and about 23" extended. When I lifted each side, I couldn't get the opposite side tires, completely off the ground, but I'm sure they were close enough. I read a few articles about measuring for shocks and they said to subtract .5" off of the compressed length so the shocks won't bottom out, which makes sense. So, I am understanding that I should get a shock that has a collapsed length of 17" for the driver's side and 18" for the passenger side, is that correct? But, I am wondering if the suspension could compress more with the weight of the truck, gear/trailer at speed on rough terrain or just over bumps on the road. I will be getting the proper length bumpstops to keep from bottoming out the shocks. But, I want to make sure my shocks and bumpstops won't limit my up travel, too much. So, I am thinking of getting the next length shorter. I am going to be getting the Bilstein 5165's for the rear. I have 10" Bilstein 5125 shocks on it, right now and at rest height, they have about equal stroke distance between up travel and down travel and that's with the bed empty. I'm thinking the 10" shocks should be fine.

Those measurements are without any bumpstops and with the bed empty.

Just an update:
I just measured the ride height of the shocks from eye to eye. The driver's side measured 19.5" eye to eye and the passenger's side measured 21". Seems like I should have more than 2" of up travel from ride height.
 
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b dkw1

Observer
Keep both your shocks the same. Getting off the shelf shocks in different lengths with the same valving would be problematic. Even if they were listed as the same I doubt that they would be. You also need to leave some travel at full droop as your springs will extend a little further when they are moving.
 

cr500taco

Adventurer
Keep both your shocks the same. Getting off the shelf shocks in different lengths with the same valving would be problematic. Even if they were listed as the same I doubt that they would be. You also need to leave some travel at full droop as your springs will extend a little further when they are moving.

I was thinking about keeping both shocks the same, thanks.
 

cr500taco

Adventurer
Of course I dunno what bumpstops you have...
But think .5” extra to compensate for bumpstop compression is optimistically little.

I don't have any bump stops, right now. My stock ones were too short. and haven't got any until I got the correct shocks.
 
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MTVR

Well-known member
Can you explain what you mean by "compression is optimistically little"?

He means that those of us that have done this before, expect your suspension to be capable of compressing a lot more than just a half inch, after first touching any off road worthy bump stop.
 

Buliwyf

Viking with a Hammer
So 17" compressed, 24" extended.

King PR2508-SS

Just call them with your weights and measurments, they'll know what to get.

But you should remove your bump stops and remeasure.
 

MTVR

Well-known member
The Kings are nice shocks. They also make nice air bumps, if you want to add some progressive bottoming resistance.

A single 2.5" reservoir shock at each rear wheel would be fine for a vehicle of your size, as long as you aren't going fast off road. You will probably need more shock up front than in the rear.
 

cr500taco

Adventurer
He means that those of us that have done this before, expect your suspension to be capable of compressing a lot more than just a half inch, after first touching any off road worthy bump stop.

That's why I am asking here. I have never done this before.
 

cr500taco

Adventurer
So 17" compressed, 24" extended.

King PR2508-SS

Just call them with your weights and measurments, they'll know what to get.

But you should remove your bump stops and remeasure.

I am getting Bilstein 5165's. I have Bilstein 6112's for the front.
 

cr500taco

Adventurer
Just an update:

I contacted Downsouth Motorsports and they said either 13,6 X 22.4 or 14.2 X 23.6. I like the idea of the 14.2, because they have a little more travel and it will net me closer to 50/50 up and down travel on the driver's side and slightly more up travel on the passenger's side.

Wondering if anybody has any more input.
 
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GoinBoardin

Observer
I opted for the 7100 reservoir model. Like a rebuildable and revalvable 5165 for close to the same price. The 5165 is welded shut, once it's done it's done. Don't like the valving? Buy a different set of shocks. The 7100 can be rebuilt, so if you change the oil occasionally they should last the life of the truck, and if you need to tweak valving that's an option, not very expensive, and diy if you're up for it.

I used a short body shock, to get more travel out of the same length as compared to non short body, for a given extended length. This made for a 12" travel shock with a 16" compressed length, 28" extended. Completely different application in my case but it seems Tacoma's are limited in space for a long rear shock and would be a good candidate for the short body.

I would determine compressed length, accounting for absolute full compression of the bump stop (for the unseen water bar at 50 mph while loaded), then get a shock that meets that minimum length while maximizing extended length. When you cycled the suspension without shocks, was the leaf pack disassembled so it was only the main leaf?
 

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