Project Victory_Overland 08 LR3 Build Thread!

The swing aways look amazing. T4x4 for should take a lesson and ditch the Home harbor freight hardware for your design. The junk they call a latch and sell for 2k+ should be embarrassing, it was a total disappointment.

Thanks; its been a napkin design for a while and I am incorporating ideas to use common off the shelf items and we are considering reproduction once I get the bugs worked out.

I couldn't agree more; I was not happy with the TR swing out in the slightest. The TR bumpers are absolutely amazing IMO but the single swing out I had just seemed like an afterthought.

That looks awesome – the propane tank storage on top was a great addition too! I'll be interested to see how the side tables turn out as I've been thinking about something similar for mine.

Do you plan to incorporate any sort of lighting for your license plate?

Thanks for the comments; I am considering off the shelf tables and then I will just build the mounts that accept the tables to fit up to my bumper. I guess it just depends on the time available as I have the skills and access to build them but my time costs me money too so it might be worth designing for options of bolt on kit that already works.

I am currently wiring up a splice connector that will tap into the trailer harness under the bumper and therefore repeat the tail lights/brakes/turns. Each side will get one and it will run through the individual swing-arms and allow for additional Baja style lighting, whip/flag lighting for the dunes, and license plate lighting; right now I'll take my chances on the plate light ticket because I want to get the harness correct w/routing.
 
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JeepColorado

Well-known member
Here are the profile views.
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Single hand latching unlocks both sides at the same time; gas struts will swing both arms out to the 90deg automatic locking position as seen here.
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Both sides are the same width dimensions as the mirrors for parking lot considerations.
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Secondary opening position for camp grounds and those times I feel like I want something hard to walk into at night......:LOL::ROFLMAO: I will be installing two flip down tables; one per side and most likely stainless or aluminum for work/cooking surfaces.
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That's really incredible to have the ability to do that- awesome work. Looks great!
 
Thanks for the comments everyone; hoping to have some minor adjustments fixed within the next two weeks so I can get it off to powdercoat.

I'll post up the gas strut install and the Hi-Lift mount when I get a chance. I also found I need to reinforce my pin lock mounts as I forgot that I need to lift them to close the swing-outs and bent the hell out of one....oops; learning curve.
 
Since its been raining and COVID closures here in SoCal, I have not had much progress on the finishing of the rear swing-out; just add WD-40 and ride it out so I can complete it and out for PC eventually.

On that note, I have been shopping and updating my camping and kitchen equipment and the lull has me designing my under sleeping platform arrangements while I continue to peg away on Dual Battery and Solar set-up.

Regardless, I am considering Zarges boxes, Alu-Box ($$$$), or Wolf/Cub packs to design around my under platform storage over the idea of dedicated drawers. My theory is if I have drawers, they will get loaded, stay loaded, and most likely less organized; pluses and minuses of either design but I feel that drawers will maintain whatever I put in there all the time where individual boxes allow for some things to stay and others to go per my needs.

Therefore, if I make one sliding platform that comes all the way out and then have access to the boxes, maybe a row or two of equal size boxes on each side (4 total if not more) with a center divider then I can pack out my boxes, store them in one spot in the garage (Like @Ray_G); I already do this! Then I am able to just drop the boxes on the sliding platform and access when needed. The boxes will be positioned to allow for swing open covers or completely removed covers; their orientation is on the platform so access to all boxes is possible depending on how far out I pull the slider. Ultimately, the boxes will take place of the dedicated drawers freeing up configuration options, weight, and more storage room/cargo room when not fully configured. By my measurements, my folding electric bike I bought for the plane trips just might fit under there on the slider.

So long story short; I love getting advice and other opinions from you on the site. Any Pro/Cons or significant issues you may see with this potential design, please let me know.

Hokey little quick drawings right here with boxes on two sides only. Might run a small T-Channel divider down the middle for rigidity as well as having a center tie-down point; maybe even go with a recessed L-Track on the side rails and center floor instead of the T-Channel divider. All overland boxes would be generally the same size and likely design the slider around the type of boxes I would use. Internal dividers inside the boxes would allow for organization and separation of different types of kit. I've considered the squareness and cost effectiveness for the Wolf/Cub Packs for most of my gear but might want a few Zarges aluminum boxes that can stay out overnight with the kitchen kit; sometimes I am pretty remote and nobody is around so not a security issue but legality for bear places and such. I have plenty of Pelicans (Zergas are 1/2 the cost) that I use for the toss around kit and on the roof if needed. Attempting to keep the internal boxes as light and squared off as possible.

Fire away.......no question I have time on my hands now for this to plan it right!

Option #1: Simple slider and boxes for storage and organization.

Screen Shot 2020-04-08 at 2.36.27 PM.png

Option #2: A bit more complicated, smaller slider with room for bags or tool mounting on the slider face.

Option #2 would have a higher, flush mount slider face wall that slides further in and would allow for storage bags or tool mounting on the face . Under the back lip; if I run the drawer all the way to the vertical supports, I have roughly 4" of space between the tailgate and the front slider wall giving room for mounting solutions of Molle type storage bags, tools, etc. I would sacrifice a bit of slider space for this option, but depending on the box size this option might be suitable. Thoughts?
Screen Shot 2020-04-08 at 3.16.26 PM.png

What Option #2 would look like closed. The tan shapes represent Molle type canvas storage bags or something similar. If you can look closely I made the slider face transparent so you can see the storage boxes behind and also illustrates the roughly 4" of overlap space under the sleeping platform to hang bags or tools on.
Screen Shot 2020-04-08 at 3.10.30 PM.png
 
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TOUGE

Active member
I generally carry 4 Wolf packs, camp gear, tools, food, cooking gear. Tools and camp gear always live in the car because I live in a tiny apartment in LA and don't really have room to stack everything in a corner. I have a ARB small drawer/slider on the left with a Dometic CFX-40 fridge on top of it and the Wolf packs stack on the right.

2 wolf packs fit perfectly width ways across the tailgate and even though you don't use your middle row, 2 will fit length ways from back of the middle seat folded down to tailgate.

I can take some photos of them in different orientations tomorrow if you would like so it's easier for you to visualize.

Also is that the 2000 ARB awning? I cant decided weather to go the 2000 or 2500.
 
@TOUGE anything helps. Per the dimensions no the FR site, are the outside dimensions pretty close to advertised; sometimes dimensions are all over the place on where they measure a case. On that note, knowing the dimensions are exact to advertised, I can then make an assessment on which boxes to order. Honestly, for about $100, I can get 4 Wolf or Cub Packs and I am sure I can find use them them even if they do not ride in the truck all the time.
 

TOUGE

Active member
Just measured 2 of my packs both are 2-3mm bigger in every direction external and external. I'm an Australian living in LA so still learning to use freedom units haha.

I will go take some photos once this rain slows down.

When stacked they lock together very well, you have to lift the tops ones off, no sliding the bottom ones out. In the car they don't become unstacked even off road with out being tied down. Strong enough to be used as a seat or to stand on getting stuff on/off roofracks.
 

Ray_G

Explorer
I would go with option 2 just because there may be times when you are on an angle, need something (tool/recovery gear) and don’t want the whole drawer coming out at you to then have to push it back in.

Will be a little more work, but if the Wolfpack’s fit in addition to something like some Blue Ridge Overland or some Springtail solutions bags can tuck on the back as depicted I think you’d have an excellent setup.
R-
Ray
 
Just measured 2 of my packs both are 2-3mm bigger in every direction external and external. I'm an Australian living in LA so still learning to use freedom units haha.

I will go take some photos once this rain slows down.

When stacked they lock together very well, you have to lift the tops ones off, no sliding the bottom ones out. In the car they don't become unstacked even off road with out being tied down. Strong enough to be used as a seat or to stand on getting stuff on/off roofracks.

Thanks @TOUGE; thinking about ordering two of each (Wolf/Cub) from Amazon and worst case I can free return if needed to get the full compliment on the ones I need for the entire build. I would not be stacking other than in the garage; the vehicle configuration would surely be side by side with a strap over the top. I mean if I need to stack in the vehicle for some reason, this does seem ideal to ensure nothing slides around so great info. Also helps for stacking at the camp site but my concern is weather proofing and sitting outside which is why I am considering dropping some cash on the Zarges aluminums; buy once, hurt once, enjoy for life.....lol

Keep up with those "Freedom Measurements"; I work international with metric and always have to pause and compute in my brain the conversions like an idiot and you would think by now I would have metric figured out but NOPE!......lol. FYI, we have partners in Melbourne and can't wait to get back down there once travel opens up.

I would go with option 2 just because there may be times when you are on an angle, need something (tool/recovery gear) and don’t want the whole drawer coming out at you to then have to push it back in.

Will be a little more work, but if the Wolfpack’s fit in addition to something like some Blue Ridge Overland or some Springtail solutions bags can tuck on the back as depicted I think you’d have an excellent setup.
R-
Ray

Agreed........my thoughts exactly. I am not sure yet what I would put in those pouches but their "quick-er-ish" access outside and not needing to pull the slide out and open boxes makes the bags a desirable option. I would most likely plasma table a molle type panel to screw onto the slider face or just use 3M HD Velcro on the face/bags. Leave the center open for a lock/latch or just stick with the slider lever latches if I go that route.
 

Ray_G

Explorer
The Velcro route is a good one for any of the bags I noted (or any of the amazon collection of MOLLE tear-away style pouches).

Ordering a yard or two of black (or whatever color) loop side Velcro isn’t expensive and provides a good looking base to the back. For extra security just add some straps with fastex buckles and you are in business. Something I have done all over my trucks where MOLLE would be great but I didn’t feel like buying/making a panel for that specific setup.

That said, check the dimensions on Springtail, they have a lot of interesting setups. There is always Gray Man Tactical too but those are $. For good reason, but still, with Velcro and straps you really don’t need to the MOLLE.

As far as what to put into them, depends on the rest of the truck but what we have found is those things that you want to get to relatively quickly-like a coffee setup (jetboil), bug spray, or things for the truck like recovery gear (tree strap, soft shackles, pully block), etc.

R-
Ray
 
Great advice........I like it. Yeah would be a bad idea to just go with a tight loop carpet back too and then use the industrial hook on the pouches cuz we know that sticks to anything like that.

Molle is nice to hook up with ease but nothing quick about disconnect; velcro is fast and easy all around for initial and reconfiguring and grab and go type stuff. I think I made my mind up on that part.

FYI, I am in the works of designing aluminum gull-wing windows for the 3rd row rears on the LR3/4. I am starting with one side and will have an aluminum cut out and OEM commercial variant style for Phase I testing. I'll be looking for people who have the balls to remove their windows as well for crowd-sourcing reviews. wink wink, hint hint.
 

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