Project Victory_Overland 08 LR3 Build Thread!

I've been going over and over on how to work my center console modification; do I build my own or buy one like a Tuffy or a Defender lockable. After a bit of research, I found one online from what I believe is CruiserCrap (Toyota bubbas) and sold by Wild Horses 4X4 (Bronco Shop) out of Lodi, Ca.

Lock and Load Security Console

Anywho, after much consideration, I went with this console and plan to incorporate into my center console set-up. I really like the quality build of this lockable console and the extra accessory set-ups that do not come with a Tuffy box. I decided against the Defender or Series console due solely on cost and not getting the total package that this console offered. Furthermore, after seeing reviews on Tuffy and then getting my hands on one, this console is much higher quality build, more secure, and comes with way more standard options included than the Tuffy and I didn't have to pay for shipping. Of note, the Tuffy does not include an internal strut and without one, I've read people losing fingertips under the steel door. Tuffy sells it as a $25 separate sale option if you chose to buy one and honestly, the lid is cumbersome and dangerous without it so it should be standard like this console has.

It comes with everything seen here, modular in design to add or take away whatever I decide in the remainder of the custom set-up. I will admit, it is quite heavy as it is made out of steel and powder-coated. It has a vinyl armrest that is stitched up nice and a combination rotating lock on the top. With the top open (gas strut inside), there is a lever that unlocks a sliding drawer in the back which conveniently may or may not hold my Glock 19 in perfect fashion.

Two dual cup holders included (Not sure I'll need either) that install on the front and back of the console with threaded inserts if one desires to install them. The angled bracket in the top left of the picture is a mount designed for a older style Bronco but it may actually work in the LR3 (TBD).

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The two front panels are included; one is blank for custom applications and the other is laser cut with pop-outs for a total of 3 power type outlets and 4 switch housings. I've seen people cut the entire switch housing area out and install a 6 or 8 Blue Sea switch panel which is probably what I will do.
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The inside bottom of the enclosed console is vented and designed with an internal shelf for a communication radio install or a power converter, however, the imagination is probably the limit on what could be installed in there. I plan to put an ICOM, Yaesu, or Kenwood in there eventually. This internal shelf is accessible through the front panel and inside the cubby via a removable panel. Of note, the storage cubby is a completely separate area so installation of items inside the radio shelf does not limit available cubby space. You can also remove the drawer if you wish to have more space, however you would need to install a cover on the empty drawer cut-out in the back if you went this route.

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The inside cubby is much larger than the factory LR3 setup, lockable and has internal removable panels to access or route wiring. The second shelf inside the cubby is designed for a radio install so it is secure inside the cubby. I may look at ways to install the faceplate for the ICOM, Yaesu, or Kenwood, radios, or whatever is installed. You can see the internal gas strut and the spring-loaded locking lever for the bottom drawer in this picture. The drawer can only be opened with the top cover open. There is also a document holder built into the underside of the door. Granted, lockable is more of a time delay as nothing is completely safe, however, this is a good addition to internal security.

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Last photo, is completely opened up with the locking drawer in the rear/bottom of the console. There are two shelves inside the cubby and a removable front inside access panel.

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More info to follow once I build the mounting plate and forward extension panel for the shift lever and such to connect this to my factory front radio console.

Here is a picture of it installed in one of Wild Horses' Broncos. The armrest is available in black or tan vinyl or they offer a custom fabric option for additional cost. The pad is easily removable with four screws on the inside. I went with black to keep it simple and may install a canvas cover to match my M&M covers at a later date.

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A.J.M

Explorer
Typical. Only sold in the US. Could do with some decent nuts for mine.
I've changed all the factory ones, and i'm still having the swelling issues on some of the newer ones, only 3 years old as well.

@A.J.M you know I'll coordinate shipping for you man if you need something or find something specific! Just hit me up!
 

A.J.M

Explorer
Eric. That’s a kind offer.
And one I think I’ll take up soon.
Those wheel nuts and also a swing away carrier bearing as I’m making my own.
 

TexasTJ

Climbing Nerd
How much of a pain is it to pull the console apart? I want to pull the chiller box out of mine and put in the real storage cubby.
 

Ray_G

Explorer
For the sake of discussion if folks start looking here for info on the 17" conversion...the KM3 has an 18" size that is ~32.5"...

Not that they are cheap, but for those looking to retain factory 18's, it's now an MT option.
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How much of a pain is it to pull the console apart? I want to pull the chiller box out of mine and put in the real storage cubby.

Not hard at all. Just have a plan for what you want to put in there in position; there is a ton of wiring and rear ducting to the back of the console that will need to be addressed. It's a bit more of a project then just pulling it and leaving it alone because of the TC/EAS control, E-brake, and shift module are all under there. With that said, you'll just need a plan if you want to rip it out on how you are going to manage that stuff and where you plan to put it ergonomically.
 
For the sake of discussion if folks start looking here for info on the 17" conversion...the KM3 has an 18" size that is ~32.5"...

Not that they are cheap, but for those looking to retain factory 18's, it's now an MT option.
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Good looking set-up right there. Yeah, nothing cheap about any KM2 set-up, but good to know there are more options in the wheel sizes we are working with.
 
I started the install of the center console over the weekend with help from a friend. We started with a basic design cut on the plasma table from steel to get some basic measurements and then moved over the 1/8" aluminum. We are welding to the basic design and then adding to the final CAD drawing which we will be able to bend on the finger brake after the table cuts to perfection. Things are coming along as planned thus far and I have the console in and bolted down to a solid platform to begin designing the enclosed radio panels and switch housings.
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Once the first fit check was complete, we welded some wings on the front sides to contour the floor tunnel, provide extra support, and allow for wiring channels under the base plate. Using 1.5" aluminum square tube, we made support feet for the factory bolts holding down the original mounting plate on the trans tunnel. We then boxed off the rear portion and added gussets for extra support. Once final measurements are made, we add it back into the CAD where we will be able to finalize the overall design for reproduction. The wing supports and rear box will be bent on the finger brake on future mounting plates if we need to reproduce. The square cut in the middle allows for all of the LR factory wiring and any new wiring safely and securely into the new console.
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I then took a 3.5" hole saw to the bottom of the new console and dimpled it for support and smoother transition of wiring. I will add chafing barrier to the hole once it shows up in the mail.
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Installation of the plate went off without a hitch. We then bolted the console down to the plate from the inside so no hardware is accessible. Theft prevention is more of a time delay based idea; if they want it bad enough, they will get it regardless of how it's installed.
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We decided to update the CAD and make the back of the console mounting plate slightly larger than what you see in this photo below. The hole drilled there is for my NL fridge plug that I will final wire in this week. By extending the box frame, we will be able to add as many 12v or USB plugs as desired. I have no use for those but I will plan to install my factory 12v rear console plug next to the NL plug just to have it there in case its needed.
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I then installed the Range Rover L322 traction control panel I picked up on fleabay for a few pennies. I took the circuit board from the original and installed it in the L322 panel and it works like a champ and looks so much nicer than the original lever/wheel design. The guts literally swap out from one to the other so they are factory fit, form, and function and I have been using this TC panel for about 8 months now with zero issues.

I will only use the shift panel trim and the E-brake switch from the factory console. I am considering moving the E-brake to the floor next to the seat but have not decided just yet on the final location.
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Unfortunately the console will stay like this for a bit until we finalize some designs and complete the sleeping rack before the Western Rally. The function is okay for me right now and I am making a temp panel to secure traction control panel and the E-brake for now but it will most likely stay in this position, just cleaned up with a laser cut panel for final assembly.

Finally, as a temporary solution, until the rest of the console is complete, I velcro'd down one of the cup holders that came with the console to the base plate to get those creature comforts back within reach. Eventually, the ashtray, power outlets, and cig lighter will come out for the ICOM radio head unit install in that area. I will add a switch panel for accessories near the shift area and come up with a better location for cup holders. I plan to scratch it out on paper and stare at it a while until it makes sense. The goal will be able to make the panels moveable as to have the option of where and what I want in there such as lighting, power outlets, radio options, etc.
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Overall, the design is coming along perfectly and has been really fun!
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We started work on the sleeping rack yesterday. After standing around and staring at our paper design, we made a few changes that would ease the install and removal process in the event it needed to happen. 99% of the time, the rear portion will stay in the truck and is easily removable with the old 3rd row seat mounting bolts.

First things first, get the carpet out. That was about a two minute process and cleared the way for a smooth install which will follow up sound damper after the rack is complete.
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Installed the mounting rails and kept the original floor tie-downs for use until the drawer system is complete. The platform is just that, a platform for now with the final design having drawer(s).
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Found the angles for the platform to follow the cabin lines, milled two mounting rails and duplicated the left and right sides.
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First install!
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We then installed the front and rear rails, center support beams, and then fitted for the front support beams.

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Final welds this weekend and next week we will start the front removable platforms on the side of the fridge/freezer!
 
Just posted a few parts up on the Classifieds.

*Used, excellent condition: LR roof rails

*Brand New: Cooling deflector for behind the OEM bumper

*Brand New: Genuine ZF transmission filter and gasket

All in Oceanside, SoCal

Check out the CLASSIFIEDS or PM me.
 
Since I missed the Western Rally, I decided to get a bit of work done. While I was away, the trans filter mod, Redline fluid, and Terrafirma 818 sliders arrived.

The slider install was fairly easy, minus the driver's side interference of the rear A/C lines running along the inside frame. Once I bent the bracket and cleared the lines, install was a snap. I cleaned the under sill off, fogged the inside with WD-40, applied blue Loctite and torqued it up from bottom to top, inside and out.

Once the sleeping rack is complete, we will start on the underbody protection with various thickness of aluminum where necessary.

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jrose609

Explorer
I installed the same sliders on my LR3. Install was a breeze, and the sliders are a good deal for the price. They don’t protect the compressor or the tank like some sliders, but they are a nice addition and look great
 
yeah I'm gonna add some aluminum plates for the underbody once the sleeping rack is complete and the new swing out is done.

TF sliders were a great added budget upgrade.
 

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