Project Victory_Overland 08 LR3 Build Thread!

Traxide and Spacers

Traxide USI-160 Kit with solar and aux plug came in yesterday. Took about a week from ordering to arrival in Hawaii. Thanks Tim for the fast and easiest process of ordering. Gave him my full set up desires and future plans for dual battery, trailer option and solar and he set me up. Also, can't beat the exchange rate right now.

http://www.traxide.com.au/complete-diy-dual-battery/land-rover-dbs-kits/discovery-3-dbs-kits/d3-bu--usi-160--abg-25.html

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My 3/4" (.75") wheel spacers also showed up today. I didn't want to go any wider than 3/4" and not sure if I will keep them on or not but I'll maybe look to install this weekend. Fast delivery and easy going on Ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252242841505?ul_noapp=true

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After reading the amazing build thread by DiscoDavis, I saw his post on the Nakatanenga Security Window Vents for Disco 3/4 and Defenders. I could not pass these up after the experiences of a few summer nights in Hawaii in the back of my Landy and the bugs. Thanks for the post DiscoDavis, Barbara at 4x4 Overlander was super awesome at ordering over email. She ensured the cheapest and most reliable shipping for my US Hawaii shipping needs from the UK.

Once they get here I will surely install and provide my experience with them.

http://www.4x4overlander.com/product/nakatanenga-security-window-vents-discovery-34-2/

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I have a bunch of pictures of my Traxide install, plus there are a couple threads on them here.... Nice toys...
I've definitely have been over your Disco pics a few times and will hitting you up on questions when I get around to installing. The Traxide kit is going to sit on the shelf a while as I'm swamped on other projects with work and such.

With that said, time is on my side because everytime I see someone install the ideas just get better and better for me to pirate and hopefully improve my install experience.
 
Nakatanenga Security Window Vents Installed

My Nakatanenga Security Window Vents showed up today from 4x4 Overlander (See Link Below, thanks DiscoDavis for the reference). Thanks Barbara and 4x4 Overlander in the UK for the order assistance and rapid shipping to Hawaii.

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Super easy to install, roll the window down halfway, drop it the vent (Side Specific) and roll the windows up until they auto-stop! DONE! Gonna drive them around the next few days to and from work and see if I like them for daily use or just the trails. As hot and humid as Hawaii gets on a daily basis, this might be nice to help regulate some interior temps from baking in the sun all day.

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DiscoDavis

Explorer
My Nakatanenga Security Window Vents showed up today from 4x4 Overlander (See Link Below, thanks DiscoDavis for the reference). Thanks Barbara and 4x4 Overlander in the UK for the order assistance and rapid shipping to Hawaii.

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Super easy to install, roll the window down halfway, drop it the vent (Side Specific) and roll the windows up until they auto-stop! DONE! Gonna drive them around the next few days to and from work and see if I like them for daily use or just the trails. As hot and humid as Hawaii gets on a daily basis, this might be nice to help regulate some interior temps from baking in the sun all day.

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Lookin sharp! :)
 
Dashcare Dash Cover......TECH version

I finally broke down and ordered a dash cover. My passenger side airbag is doing what LR3's do and is cracking. Not worth the time for me to fix and I've wanted a dash cover anyway so I did some research, found some photos and reviews and decided on the DashCare by Seatz Manufacturing out of SoCal. My only rub is I had to pay shipping to Hawaii!

I went with the modern TECH version in BLACK and headlight sensor hole(+$8.00). I was concerned about them not cutting the hole for the dash speaker but it actually looks and functions great without it. They claim the material is designed to be over speakers and not drown any noise and from what I can tell, no issues at all.

I have not Velcro'd it down and do not intend to put any 3M tape on my dash. I may run some along the window at the front of the dash because I am considering using a few Velcro backed pouches when I'm in the hills for GPS, some overflow stuff, etc... and it might add weight and cause the cover to shift. That's future thoughts.

Initial reviews:

I love it and should have pulled the trigger before my dash cracked. Yes, one could it doesn't match the theme of the plush leather interior and so on. Well I hope it matches my Melvill & Moon seat covers that are coming from South Africa cuz that's all that matters to me.....:wings::ylsmoke:

The fit is almost perfect. Takes a day or two in the sun to roll out completely flat and it doesn't line up 100% in all areas but it protects my dash in every fashion and it does NOT need Velcro for normal use. I laid it down, stuffed it tight to the window and it has not moved since.

Pictures and link below if anyone was looking for a cheap cover to reduce temp and burn on the dash, I recommend it. If for some reason it fades after a year or so, another $50 or some dye and I'm rolling dirty again.......:smiley_drive:

http://dashcare.com/i-9461146-dash-cover-land-rover-lr3-2005-2009.html

Quantity: 1
Status: SHIPPED
Item: Dash Cover - Land Rover LR3 2005-2009 (9461146 - *99-115)
Choose Material & Color: 61, Tech, Black*Add($8.00)
Cut Hole for Headlight Sensor?: Yes - Please Cut for Auto Headlights
Sensor Hole

Unit Price: $45.99
Total Price: $45.99
------------------------------------------------------------------------
subtotal: $45.99
shipping: $11.36
------------------------------------------------------------------------
total: $57.35

THE LAST PHOTO I TOOK WITH FULL CLARITY CONTRAST CAMERA MODE JUST TO SHOW THE THREAD PATTERN FOR YOU VIEWERS. IT IS A CAMERA VIEW ONLY, THE OTHER PICTURES ARE HOW IT LOOKS IN REAL LIFE.

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CLARITY CAMERA MODE! HELPS BREAK OUT THE PATTERN YOU CAN'T SEE IN NORMAL MODE. IT DISTORTS THE COLOR AND IS ONLY LIKE THIS TO SHOW THE MATERIAL PATTERN.
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I have one fitted as well, I didn't even bother use the Velcro... cheaper than 1000 bucks for a dash.
No joke. I saw the project from another member on pulling the dash pad out and I immediately said "F that!" :Wow1: No chance it will go back in exactly like I want it with all the hardware and not squeak...

Its a simple fix to a big problem in LR3s. For me, a no brainer and for those who have LR3s without cracked dashes it should be a necessity to cover the dash anyway cuz its going to happen.
 
Tactical Rover Bumpers and Cooling Baffles arrived

After a long awaited trip from SoCal to Arizona and then to Hawaii, my Tactical Rover front and rear bumpers have arrived in the Aloha State! Eric and the Tactical Rovers crew delivered. Eric is absolutely a professional to work with and he made the process not only easy but kept the shop open for me on a weekend just so my buddy could come from Arizona to SoCal and pick up the bumpers. I was able to work out a shipping deal from AZ to Hawaii that I could not pass up and my buddy offered to drive out to AZ to pick the bumpers up for me to make the shipping timeline. Eric not only made my bumpers a huge priority, but also answered my every need and concern and to top it off, came in on a weekend to facilitate delivery. Absolute props to him...........too bad I didn't get any Tactical Rovers stickers to slap on Victory to show off in Hawaii..hahahaha :smiley_drive:
Also, the final parts consisting of factory cooling baffles that were smashed in the crash showed up.
TR Front and Rear Bumpers and Cooling Baffles
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TR Front Bumper and Winch Plate
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TR Front Winch Plate
Victory Front TR Winch Plate.JPG
TR Rear Bumper Christmas Wrapping Style
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Final repairs and Tactical Rovers front bumper installed

Last night I finished the repairs on the front of Victory. I had to disassemble the front end again to install some of the cooling ducts and the front cross member. When I removed the damaged front cross member, I cut it in half and used spot weld bits to cut the welds at each end and remove the damaged areas. I then dowel hammered out the bent areas to prep it for the new cross member. My research has found that this crossmember actually does not serve much structural importance as it does protection from the front end as it is a crush point.

My buddy came over and we shimmed and installed the new crossmember. The intent was to weld it in by drilling and plug welding it. Then we decided since there are two main support bolts on each end, why not install our own bolts instead of plug welds to allow it to be removable. Yes, I have a salvage title now (read the beginning of the thread if you want to know the whole story) so it didn't matter to me and drilling and bolting vice a few spot welds is more than strong enough behind the new steel bumper and winch plate getting ready for install.

Crossmember installed, bolted and secure.
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Front end reassembled. If you look at the top of the crossmember, you can see there is a section of the magnesium radiator support cut out and trimmed where it was damaged. Someday I may replace that piece but $800 from the stealership or $500 elsewhere plus shipping lost the vote to ingenuity...hahaha
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After all was finally put back together, I did some corrosion prevention all around the exposed area and reprimed and painted. Also pirated DiscoDavis' recovery point paint, only I chose to go RED.
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Tactical Rovers front bumper install

I finally got around to installing the Tactical Rover front bumper tonight. Keep in mind, my front bumper was already completely removed from the crash so that portion of removing OEM parts is probably the hardest part of the entire job. Also, the winch plate is pretty heavy, almost as heavy as the bumper itself due to thickness. I planned to weigh them but honestly forgot.

I put the Youtube link below if anyone wants to see the process recommended by Eric at TR. I will say I followed it about 95% of the way but did a few of my own things to ease my process since I was performing this project solo. The fit is damn near perfect with some minor tapping of adjustments for left and right to my liking.

Tactical Rover Install Video if you chose to watch. If you are installing, a must watch before you start, then come up with your own plan if needed to refine the process like I did.

https://youtu.be/0o_lwhNRInY

Major differences from video to my installation procedure:

1) I measured and found centerline on all components before I even started. I marked the Rover in two places, the winch plate in two places and the bumper in two places that I found would make it easy to have complete alignment once everything was snugged down and prior to final torque. The main purpose was fit the winch plate to the truck, install the bumper and aligned the bumper to the winch plate and then make the final nudge needed to get the winch plate in the exact spot to center on the vehicle. Since I was working alone, the jack and rubber hammer to tap into place were paramount and the above procedure minimized the amount of time taking the bumper on and off for minor alignments. Sorry I'm a perfectionist in this area.....maybe my OCD of sorts for kit! lol To be clear, there is very minimal movement for adjustment as Eric and the team jigged this thing up nicely. It does have some lateral movement for adjustment but vertical and leveling its pretty much spot on which tells me there is no concern for undue stress on hardware for winching or jacking.

2) I used a motorcycle jack to install the bumper and support it when i was moving the main bumper around. Makes the job easy for minor adjustments and supports the entire assembly. I kept the winch mount snug so I could jack or tap with the dead blow in the areas I needed for adjustment to install bolts and level the bumper. With the two front main bolts installed and fairly tight, the entire assembly will move to make small leveling and lateral adjustments of the entire assembly but keep the winch mount and bumper aligned. Once you have it all exactly where you want it, remove the two main bolts holding the bumper to the winch plate and then final torque the winch plate to the Rover. The bumper will now reinstall 100% level and centered if that is where you put it in the first place. Measure three times, install once......like a champ.

Winch plate installed. Installed the top bolts first, found centerline and snugged to allow it to move a bit if needed. Installed the lower bolts loosely for now.
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Placed the bumper on the winch plate and aligned to the best I could at this point. Some minor fender trimming is required to allow the bumper to slide all the way into position.
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Marked the fenders and fender flares for trimming. Used my cutoff wheel for both. Ensure you do NOT cut off the tab for the OEM flare you see under the cut line of the fender otherwise returning to stock is going to be a problem. Filed, primed and painted. I cut my fender flares level to the bottom of the lights as I plan to install some weather stripping to fill the gaps. You can cut as high or low as you wish, I preferred the line to be high vice low. I marked them with a flat edge on the bumper to the lights. Then used 550 parachute cord to run the line and ensure it was level before I cut. Measure three times, cut once! I will trim a bit more on both once my weather stripping choice is made.
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Installed the fender flares and slid the bumper all the way into full mounting position. Verified alignment with the two main large mounting bolts torqued down. I tapped as needed and jacked a bit. There are two bolts on the bottom near the recovery point and removable bash plate. Ensure these fit before you remove the bumper to conduct final torque of the winch plate. Once you confirm alignment, remove the bumper for the final time. Torque the winch plate to spec. Install the bumper on the winch plate, torque the two main mounting bolts and then the bottom two bolts.
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After I was done, I went around and sealed all of the hardware with gasket sealant and painted it black to match the powder coat. The main goal is to hopefully help with some corrosion protection. In the coming days, my plan is to replace all supplied Grade 8 hardware with Stainless Steel Grade 8 hardware once I get to town and visit Fastenal.
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perkj

Explorer
Do they make Grade 8 SS bolts? I always thought SS wasn't strong enough for grade 8 or even 5


UPDATE 1: you may want to check this out first - https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

Update 2: I found the following. It appears 17-4 SS is what you want but it comes at an extreme cost from what I've found. 17-4 is the only SS that meets grade 8 specs:

Carbon Steel used in Grade 8 Fasteners:
91 ksi in single shear
130 ksi tensile yield
150 ksi tensile ultimate

17-4 Stainless Bar heat treated to H1025 (this would be the likely condition for a bolt)
95 ksi single shear
145 ksi tensile yield
155 ksi tensile ultimate

ARP makes bolts from 17-4, and here is one online store where you can buy their 1/4"-3/4" diameter stainless bolts up to 12" lengths. They are all flanged head bolts: http://stainlessbits.com/cart/shopd...Strength+Standard+Thread+Fasteners+Inches<br>

BEWARE: Impact strength is SIGNIFICANTLY reduced for 17-4 Stainless at subzero temperatures!
 
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Do they make Grade 8 SS bolts? I always thought SS wasn't strong enough for grade 8 or even 5


UPDATE 1: you may want to check this out first - https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Materials-and-Grades/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

Update 2: I found the following. It appears 17-4 SS is what you want but it comes at an extreme cost from what I've found. 17-4 is the only SS that meets grade 8 specs:

Carbon Steel used in Grade 8 Fasteners:
91 ksi in single shear
130 ksi tensile yield
150 ksi tensile ultimate

17-4 Stainless Bar heat treated to H1025 (this would be the likely condition for a bolt)
95 ksi single shear
145 ksi tensile yield
155 ksi tensile ultimate

ARP makes bolts from 17-4, and here is one online store where you can buy their 1/4"-3/4" diameter stainless bolts up to 12" lengths. They are all flanged head bolts: http://stainlessbits.com/cart/shopd...Strength+Standard+Thread+Fasteners+Inches<br>

BEWARE: Impact strength is SIGNIFICANTLY reduced for 17-4 Stainless at subzero temperatures!
Perkj, great information and thanks for doing some research on this for us. The link didn't work as it went to a cart so I will research the main website for my needs.

To clarify, the winch plate bolts are the factory bolts that hold the bumper support on the OEM configuration. These 8 bolts are reused on the TR installation procedures. I plan to upgrade these bolts since I do not really know what their OEM spec is. For the 8 x winch plate mount bolts, they will be upgraded to Grade 8 with a wet install of aviation grade corrosion prevention compound for maximum corrosion prevention as they hold all of the winch load and bumper weight. These 8 bolts are completely hidden so once installed and torqued, there is no real way to inspect them.

The OEM recovery point is used for snatch rope or tow and/or snatch-block winch recovery etc... so again, no load on the bumper bolts other than bumper weight.

The four bolts (2 x large, 2 x small Grade 8) that secure the bumper assembly to the winch plate only hold the weight of the bumper itself. They are not under any load unless I really bash it hard on the rocks, or burry the nose, etc... which I do not intentionally plan to do of course. They are completely exposed to weather and as you know, Grade 8 does patina fairly quickly and is surely not a desirable look or function. Yes they will probably hold forever, but the galling of the bolt and the bumper material will lead to future rusting issues I do not want. Therefore, the plan is to go stainless or carbon steel with thread sealant and like characteristics of Grade 8 as to not compromise integrity, but still maintain that wonderful finish and corrosion protection.

Hope that helps explain my logic. I'll be searching through those links you sent tonight so I can get what I need on order ASAP. Thanks again.
 
TR rear bumper and trailer wiring install

I'm getting ready to pull my OEM rear bumper and start the trailer wiring from Atlantic British and install the Tactical Rovers rear bumper. Is there anything that anyone suggests I do while I am back there messing around with all the stuff removed?

Thanks in advance!
 
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