Project Victory_Overland 08 LR3 Build Thread!

DiscoDavis

Explorer
Eric,

I like the idea of the voltmeters for each battery. Especially a manual disconnect between the two. Your wiring is as far as I see (I am NOT an electrician), sound.

May consider:
>using a little blue sea (or other) fuse box between the batteries and each gauge/plug set, at very least an inline fuse on each feed wire
>use a maxi or ANL fuse from battery feed to your fuse box
>use a maxi or ANL fuse for the battery to battery, OR battery to solenoid (switch) to battery connections.
>A manual switch AND a large solenoid to switch the batteries together for charging/winch purposes. This way you can either use a large marine cutoff (2-3 position switch, marine plastic key thing) directly for a large feed wire for safety or theft purposes (winch emergency stop, alternator, starter, idk), or use a small remote mounted switch to activate or disconnect the solenoid that lives closer to your batteries.
>Better to connect the neg terminals of each battery to a good chassis ground, so they each have their own dedicated ground wire.

My one ten has a system (much simpler) like yours with only one volt meter (on auxiliary battery), but when they are connected for driving it will show both as they are connected in parallel by the solenoid. When stopped all I care about is the house, but can put the key in and they will connect by solenoid and I get the average of the two (aux is an older weaker battery so I guestimate the main battery is always in slightly better shape).

if you add a fuse box, it will also give you a good set of grounds if you ground the box itself to chassis (saves you multiple wires v one big wire)
 

DiscoDavis

Explorer
Correct, I believe I corrected that somewhere along the line but you are correct on this. My plan will be to go to the primary for the winch if I ever do put on in as I plan the vehicle will be running during any type of winching.

Good catch though and I hope I clarified the intent if I go the winch route.
Recommend using your traxide kit or DIY to make your two batteries run in parallel as one big battery for driving/lighting/winching purposes. You can make it so that the two batteries are separate when you are stopped or camped and only need to run house items.
 
Installed the bezel and ran my main Traxide harness into the cab through the firewall yesterday. Things are slowly coming together as I piece the interior together and get ready to cut my sleeping platform and take the seats back out since Mom and Dad are gone!

Here is the bezel install, I picked up some cheap switch blank-off plates on Amazon for the interim use until more accessories are installed. I only have my "Primary" battery installed at the moment!

Amazon Switch Blank-off Plates

BATT Monitor Switch ON........KEY OFF! (12.9 volts)
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BATT Monitor Switch ON........KEY ON, Truck Running on the Alternator! (13.7 volts)
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MAX4433

New member
Awning mounted ok and fit was great... BUT, didn't realize that the Shadow Awning needs support at the rear hinge point. The Prospeed roof rack needs to have something fabricated or some ingenious mounts made that are floating out there in the overland world. The C-channel that the awning is incased in started bending fro the stress of no support :(
No pics yet until I can figure this debacle.
Hi there, I'm thinking about doing the same thing, since I also have a prospeed rack. I have two of the prospeed awning mounts, and was wondering if you could mount that aluminum support bar they sell, to the prospeed mounts and let the aluminum bar overhang the rear about 18 to 20 inches and mount the shadow awning to that. Think that would be strong enough?
 

krick3tt

Adventurer
Letting things overshoot the back can be a problem but as long as the rear hatch, when lifted, doesn't conflict, all should be reasonably OK. Although, almost 2 feet might look a bit odd.
 

MAX4433

New member
Awning mounted ok and fit was great... BUT, didn't realize that the Shadow Awning needs support at the rear hinge point. The Prospeed roof rack needs to have something fabricated or some ingenious mounts made that are floating out there in the overland world. The C-channel that the awning is incased in started bending fro the stress of no support :(
No pics yet until I can figure this debacle.
Do you think using the Alu-Cab aluminum bar mounted to the prospeed awning mounts, then mounting the Alu-Cab awning to the aluminum bar, and letting the bar overhang the rear mount by about 18 inches. Do you think that would be strong enough to support the awning in the back? I would be using the alu-cab bar as a stiffener to support the rear of the awning where it swings opens. Then you can still fold the prospeed mounts back to lay the awning on top of the rack, to give it better clearance on the side.
 

harbinger808

Adventurer
Do you think using the Alu-Cab aluminum bar mounted to the prospeed awning mounts, then mounting the Alu-Cab awning to the aluminum bar, and letting the bar overhang the rear mount by about 18 inches. Do you think that would be strong enough to support the awning in the back? I would be using the alu-cab bar as a stiffener to support the rear of the awning where it swings opens. Then you can still fold the prospeed mounts back to lay the awning on top of the rack, to give it better clearance on the side.
pm what you are thinking about doing. i too had 2 of the PS awning brackets. they could not hold the weight of the shadowawning. i think even if i had 4 or 5 of them they would still flex and snap off at the hinges. unfortunately, my solution was to weld 2 supports to a steel plate and mount the rear (hinge) of the awning to that bracket. it can no longer fold down which is fine for our needs.
 

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Fellas, please post your individual modifications on your build page or another thread for specific kit designs (Maybe this was a mistake cut and paste!:unsure:)! The last four posts having nothing to do with anything I've done on my truck and don't want it to get overrun with stuff not related to my build.....I do love that Prospeed and AluCab kit though! :D

Cheers fellas! (y)

E
 
Any update on the sleeping platform? Im in the process of designing mine and am super curious to see what others have come up with?
Nothing further complete yet on the platform as I have been traveling a lot and came home to a waterlogged and broken yard fence.....lol.

I'll try and get the platform on the frame this week or next.
 
Selling my Tactical Rovers LR3/4 Rear swing out. Single side for the TR rear bumper. The carrier was never power coated so there is a bit of surface rust but otherwise in perfect working order. I am selling because I am fabricating a custom carrier that extends across the entire bumper and do not need this anymore.

Sells for $560 from TR new; asking $360!

All hardware is included that came with the carrier. I have the brand new gas strut for it as well that I never used (comes with, just not in the picture).

Located in Oceanside, CA but I can deliver to Orange County or Riverside/San Bernardino this week if needed as I will up there for work.

Pick-up or local area meet up only as I am not willing to go through the shipping process.

$360 O.B.O.

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From the TR Site!
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So I finally got around to getting part of the top down on the sleeping platform. Here is the progress so far and I expect to have the side portions of the fridge laid down over the seats later today; wishful thinking.

I am using 1/2" black starboard for my platform; Starboard is heavier and more expensive! However, in my opinion, Starboard much easier to work with and does not require sealing and such as most wood platforms should have. Bottom line, this is a personal preference which allows me to cut and install and be done with it.

Using my better judgement and doing the math on cubic storage, I decided that making full side panels with marine type storage insert cubbies on the side was not worth the extra labor and cost; I decided to put the OEM side panels back in with the small cubbies and cup holders as this meets my needs and will allow for factory fit of another design project I have in mind later on.

The plastic protection still on the starboard and I used 1" self tapping (predrilled the Starboard) to secure platform to the frame. At some point, I will remove the cover and install Rivnuts and machine screws for panel removal as needed. The RED arrow and GREEN box will be where I mount the electrical panel (mounted on front side) for items such as the BlueSea Accy Fuse Box, Solar Controller, etc. since that seat will stay in the truck, folded down, and only used if absolutely needed; all other seats will be removed permanently.

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Another long day pecking away at the fit. I have some trimming to do yet and finish the legs on the right side where the second row seat would be. So far so good, solid, no wiggle or vibration, and ready for me to take the measurements for the sleeping pad. I have to lower the fridge a 1/2" so I can put a drop in panel over the fridge; the other option is just use a thicker pad in that area that drops in and out to access the fridge!

Suggestions alway welcome!

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Ray_G

Explorer
For the fridge leveling I think it depends on where you see your head. If down on that end of the truck, worth the investment of the time to do the panel-if you see yourself facing the other way, I'd just put a pad on it and be done since ultimately either solution will get in the way of fridge access the rest of the time (to some degree or another).

What's the area at the front going to be used for adjacent to the fridges, under the structure?

Looks good, well built and clean.
r-
Ray
 
@Ray_G I agree and have decided since I know I prefer my feet out the back hatch, I will take the time to lower the fridge and level it to clear a drop in panel. With that said, I realistically could have lowered everything almost another 1.5" if I had removed all of the carpet in the cab (2nd Row) area, but, my goal was to preserve as much insulation and sound proofing in that area since the 3rd row area is completely bare.

Left Hand 2nd Row Seat:
This seat will stay installed and folded down in its lowest setting. The purpose is to have a seat available in the event I need to put someone in for some other purpose than normal operation and have a seat belt (Take an extra buddy, recovery from trail, etc.). Under the sleep panel (LH Side Fridge) I built a cubby that actually levels the panel on top of the seat and supports the weight of the platform. The panel is held in by 3 x 10/32 stainless screws and rivnuts connected to the welded frame. I can take this panel out in less than a minute by removing the screws. The cubby is approximately 2.5sqft (17"x17"x10.5" inside dim) and will have access from the top by a 13"x17" marine grade flush door. (Still in the mail).

13" x 17" Marine Access Door Template
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Approx: 2.5sqft of storage (Bottom not installed until the access door arrives). Panel is upside down for the photo!
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Left Hand Side Platform Installed:
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Right Hand 2nd Row Seat:
This seat will be permanently removed! I am building a support frame that will house a fresh water tank with valved drain and it will sit as low as possible to the floor for CG purposes. I decided to put this tank on the opposite side from me as I will always be in the vehicle and may or may not have a passenger in the co-pilot seat. Therefore, having the water weight and potential heavy storage items in this area will help keep me balanced as much as possible and opposite me and hopefully I keep around a skinny co-pilot! Hahaha!

Right Hand Platform Installed: (Awaiting adjustable threaded rod for legs).
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Finally, the original design had my Power Distribution Panel (PDP) on the right hand side where it is installed today. I will cover the LH side as well and may decide to move the components to the LH side once I have everything installed. I am unsure of what side will have the easiest access for troubleshooting, but more than likely it will be the RH side where it is installed now due to ease of removing the RH sleeping platform panel without the cubby modification. I am debating on making a cubby on the LH side as well but will not make that decision until the water tank and such are installed and I can confirm the actual dimensions. I may install the marine door regardless to gain access to any components under the panel.

I was able to successfully lower the fridge almost a full inch and you can see my Traxide harness laying on the NL Weekender 50 fridge tray. I will run that main power for the house battery to the BlueSea box that will be installed on the PDP; this should make it easy to disconnect by removing the power and ground in the event I need to remove the platform.
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