Project Victory_Overland 08 LR3 Build Thread!

We started work on the sleeping rack yesterday. After standing around and staring at our paper design, we made a few changes that would ease the install and removal process in the event it needed to happen. 99% of the time, the rear portion will stay in the truck and is easily removable with the old 3rd row seat mounting bolts.

First things first, get the carpet out. That was about a two minute process and cleared the way for a smooth install which will follow up sound damper after the rack is complete.
Installed the mounting rails and kept the original floor tie-downs for use until the drawer system is complete. The platform is just that, a platform for now with the final design having drawer(s).
Found the angles for the platform to follow the cabin lines, milled two mounting rails and duplicated the left and right sides.

First install!

We then installed the front and rear rails, center support beams, and then fitted for the front support beams.

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Final welds this weekend and next week we will start the front removable platforms on the side of the fridge/freezer!
Just posted a few parts up on the Classifieds.

*Used, excellent condition: LR roof rails

*Brand New: Cooling deflector for behind the OEM bumper

*Brand New: Genuine ZF transmission filter and gasket

All in Oceanside, SoCal

Check out the CLASSIFIEDS or PM me.
Since I missed the Western Rally, I decided to get a bit of work done. While I was away, the trans filter mod, Redline fluid, and Terrafirma 818 sliders arrived.

The slider install was fairly easy, minus the driver's side interference of the rear A/C lines running along the inside frame. Once I bent the bracket and cleared the lines, install was a snap. I cleaned the under sill off, fogged the inside with WD-40, applied blue Loctite and torqued it up from bottom to top, inside and out.

Once the sleeping rack is complete, we will start on the underbody protection with various thickness of aluminum where necessary.

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I installed the same sliders on my LR3. Install was a breeze, and the sliders are a good deal for the price. They don’t protect the compressor or the tank like some sliders, but they are a nice addition and look great
This is a great thread. I especially appreciate the detailed walk through of the mechanical upgrades/fixes/updates.

What do you think is the best change/fix/update you've made?

Is there one you wish you hadn't done?
This is a great thread. I especially appreciate the detailed walk through of the mechanical upgrades/fixes/updates.

What do you think is the best change/fix/update you've made?

Is there one you wish you hadn't done?
@Hawkbeard Thanks for the comments on the build thread! Victory is coming along as fast and as much as I can afford her to with all of my distractions. I try to keep the installs and maintenance as detailed as possible so it will help someone else out in the end. I know I have learned so much from this community and I am just trying to pay it forward.

Thus far, my best mod is no secret; 17" wheels with KM2's (and all the other true 17" off-road capable rubber); I believe the 17" with true air-down capability really let the traction control open up to full capability. The second is the interior sleeping set up which is by no means a fast process, but has been really fun so far. I hope to get the rest of the fab on the sleeping platform frame done this weekend and then I can start cutting the top!
My fab buddy is hard down and sick for the last few days so I am letting him recover and then we will finish the sleeping platform frame. Today, I dug out the Traxide kit from the parts box and started pulling the rest of the interior to start this wiring mess. My plan is maybe an S-Pod and I am considering running a third battery in the interior, or maybe just one really big a$$ battery inside and keep the compressor in the second spot under the hood.......I'm open for ideas!

On that note, I took the headliner down today to ensure I complete my full wiring inspection of the vehicle. Thus far, everything looks really good, zero corrosion and my sunroof drains are clear and secure.

On that note, Victory's headliner is sagging so I plan to recover all of the cloth areas in either black or go gray again....undecided. FYI, if you want to take the headliner down, it's quite easy and the whole process of getting the rest of the interior out was less than 30 minutes.

Process for removing the headliner:

1) Remove the A-pillar, B-pillar, C-pillar, and rear upper hatch covers.
2) Remove both sun visors.
3) Remove all oh-sh!t handles
4) Main harness connector in the front A-pillar by the dash (Right Side)
5) Main harness connector on the back left upper by the third brake light.
6) Slowly pull down on your side of choice as it is only held up by plastic pin clips like the rest of the panels in the LRs.
7) Once its down, angle it to pull it out from the rear of the vehicle.

I'm considering no installing the rear lower side panels with the cubbies and making my own as my goal is to eventually remove the third row windows and make expedition panel doors in those!

Bud, this Disco is really starting to look absolutely EPIC!!! i wish I have the skillset and machinery that you have to do all these things.....
Thank Rob! I feel like its spent more time in the garage the last few months than anything with all of this project stuff. Ever since the wiring problem, I've decided that starting the full project is as good of time as any since the interior is all the way going back now! lol
I had an alternator failure last night on the way home from my buddy's fab shop! Not much to say about that other than it's always good to have an alternator on the shelf and I'm so good at it, I can have an alternator swapped out from start to finish in under an hour now! I'm not sure if that's a good thing or reinforcement to always have my spare alternator

Indications: flashing battery light at idle, goes away with touch of the accelerator. Then I got the tip angle sensor, trans fault, suspension fault, dash went out completely, and I was able to limp it to the petrol station parking lot! Took a lovely "Roadside Service" tow home!

Slapping the dollies on!

On that note, we made some serious progress yesterday and the sleeping platform is ready for me to put the top on. I am not sure when I will get to it, but more than likely it will be after the Traxide install so I have the panels back in the cab and the front seats installed.

For now, here are the removable front sections! They will attached to the main cargo platform by barrel hinges or drop hinges as some call them! That way they lock in place but can be removed fast and easy with no unbolting! I've also had the design in mind that the front legs will extend so I can tilt the front panels up for some reclining action! Woot Woot! More to follow on that!

Clamp up fit-check! Again, these pieces will be quick-release removable! The back section in the cargo area is bolted down so it will take a bit to get it out but still fairly easy due to design.


Front pieces are just propped up in this photo. The adjustable legs are not done yet!
After I installed the new alternator today, I decided it was a great time to rebuild the front valve block since my front end was sagging overnight. I posted a "DIY Instruction" on the forums here for all the details of the project!

Parts found here: $35 per block (2 x valve blocks = $70)
BP Utah EAS Valve Block Rebuild Kit

Very EASY Project!

RR LR3/4 Valve Block Rebuild



All done and working perfectly again. I'll get around to the rear in the next week or so but right now their are no issues back there! hahaha
Yesterday I tackled the two-piece transmission filter change! I will not go into detail on this other than follow the AB Link YouTube video and this job will go off without a hitch!

AB 2-Piece Transmission Filter Change

My only change to how this process went down was to shave the heat shield bolts down to a shorter length for ease of install. The four 8mm bolts that hold the heat shield MOUNT to the transmission is the hardest part. Doug recommends removing the front prop-shaft to ease the install of the mount, however, I found shaving down three of the short bolts was an easier job since they do not support anything other than the heat shield mount.

On a final note, I plan to modify my skid plate to hold the heat shield so when I drop the skid plate, I do not have to ever worry about the a$$ pain of putting this heat shield on again!
On a final note, I plan to modify my skid plate to hold the heat shield so when I drop the skid plate, I do not have to ever worry about the a$$ pain of putting this heat shield on again!
Definitely on my list. Are you saying you'd be bolting it "down" to the skid plate, instead of "up" to... whatever it currently attaches to? Almost like sandwiching it, I'm imagining.
@Hawkbeard that is correct, I plan to sandwich it or mount it on the skid plate so when the plate comes down, the trans pan is immediately accessible. I will do the same for aftermarket skid plates when the time comes. If you watch the video, you will see the bracket the heat shield attaches too; the bracket bolts in four places to the transmission and of course, all are in horrible!

On that note, I'll double check the alignment when I put my skid plate back on and go from there. Right now, I plan to run the vehicle a few days with no underbody protection to ensure I do not have leaks.