Pro-Link Factor 55

cjlewis

SE Expedition Society
Pro-Link Review

I have a Pro-Link and had time to talk with one of the designers at the Expo. Is it necessary, no. Is is a well designed, smart solution to simplify rigging and storage of my rigging equipment? I say yes.

Advantages in my opinion:
- Reduced damage to rollers/fairlead
- Allows use of shackle on winch line
- No need for shackles on front of vehicle (used to secure hook)
- Reusable, can be moved to new line. I have steel now but plan to upgrade to synthetic.
- Protects the synthetic line in the loop from debris, UV light (I thought this was really smart)

If you add these all up, I think they have a good product.

Disadvantages in my opinion:
- Cost
- Need snap ring tool
- Colored Pro-Links will fade in sun
- Some will say 'you don't need that'

As for the debate about splicing: I have watch the videos and believe I could do it with some reference material, however, I would not want to trust that my vehicle (or someone else's) on something I think I know how to do. Having said that some emergencies don't leave other options so I plan to carry that reference material with me.

So in the end its a pricey, clever accessory...welcome to Expo!
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
I don't either but very often during recoveries I see something that I consider significantly unsafe.
I think you're missing my point, and you appear to be missing the point of the strap/hook photo.

Is is a well designed, smart solution to simplify rigging and storage of my rigging equipment? I say yes.
What I see, for any rigging scenario i can think of, is an additional component, between your rope and your rigging, that serves no purpose for actual rigging.
Now, I admit there may be some scenario I'm not thinking of and I'd love it if someone pointed it out to me, but for now I don't see any way it simplifies rigging.
 
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cjlewis

SE Expedition Society
Thanks for the info! How bad is the fading?

I can't quantify other than to say that the bright colors fade most notably (esp. Red). This, I believe, is common for anodized aluminum. They also had a gun-metal gray which had a thicker coating and thus resisted chipping better.

This info came from Factor 55 (Mike) at the Expo. I chose the silver to combat the effects of sun/chipping.

Here is a Youtube interview with Mike.

 

rezdiver

Adventurer
Quote from video:
"why use a shackle and a hook when you can use the prolink and a shackle?"

LOL, and he said you can even get an optional titanium pin instead of the carbon steel pin, but they are exactly the same strength.
whats another extra few bucks.
 

opie

Explorer
I want to publicly apologize for my conduct in my interactions in this thread. Stepping back for a few days allowed me to clear my thoughts and realize I was conducting myself using more emotion than anything else. I let the history between Steve and I dictate my tone towards him and that was unprofessional.

Kris
 

Eventhough

Explorer
So why can't I just put may shackle though the eye and forgo the hook and the prolink? If i buy anything it will be a swivel shackel, but I don't have that kind of money either.

If you use a regular open thimble, or even tube thimble, they can crush/deform under heavy loads. I've done that to a tube thimble on my own winch line with a Warn M8000 winch - but I do wheel and winch a bunch. If you stick with a 'regular' style of thimble I suggest going with a tube thimble with a gusset that will still fit your shackle to help prevent deformation of the thimble. The difference between that approach and a ProLink is the tube thimble can get sucked back through the fairlead without a shackle attached, isn't as 'pretty' :snorkel:, and has to be spliced on, but you will save a chunk of change.
 

Antichrist

Expedition Leader
Since you have to use an open or tube thimble with the prolink anyway, why would they be less likely to deform with the pro link on it vs a shackle?
The pin in the prolink is smaller than my shackle pins, 3/8" vs 7/8" & 1"
 

Eventhough

Explorer
Since you have to use an open or tube thimble with the prolink anyway, why would they be less likely to deform with the pro link on it vs a shackle?
The pin in the prolink is smaller than my shackle pins, 3/8" vs 7/8" & 1"

You wouldn't and I didn't say you would be less likely to deform a regular thimble (open or tube and without a gusset) if using a ProLink. I was addressing bfdiesel's post about just using a regular thimble - and wanted for him and others to know if you do use a regular thimble they can deform. I've got several in my shop that I've removed from customer's lines. One came in this past week and it is N-A-S-T-Y deformed but is also from a budget line and the open thimble is/was very light weight.

The least expensive method by far is still a regular style thimble of which there are several options, but there are downsides to just using a regular thimble as have been covered several times in this thread.
 

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