Power supply systems?

[Hummelator]

I am building a tear drop trailer and would like to have it wired for power.
Would be running an ARB fridge and a few led lights when dark. And Maybe a fan vent when sleeping. Would like it to have a solar recharge system.

I am aware of ark pak's exsistance but havn't done much research yet.
Wanted to see what companies make such systems

Anyone have some knowledge in this area?

 

[1Louder]

Search for ArkPak, GoalZero 400, and sometimes they are called solar generators when paired with a panel. I think if you are building a teardrop using one of these devices is not really necessary for your primary electrical system. Why not put in a fuse block, battery, and basic wiring to power what you need?

 

[Hummelator]

After a bit of research I think I might do that actually. Didn't even occur to me that I'd have to run wires anyways for lights:drool:

 

[KMG]

I have had good luck with the CTEC 250 Dual and Smartpass combination. Simple, Reliable, Reasonable Priced.

 

[DBSwartwood]

Check out this deal

These guys have been around a few years and have a great deal on this light-weight Li-ion setup. I'm considering buying one and I haven't even outfitted my truck with a fridge yet.
Inergy Solar Kodiak

 

[mmaattppoo]

Also very please with the CTEK D250S Dual (sans-Smartpass). I've been running the D250S Dual for just over a year with an auxiliary 76Ah deep cycle AGM battery to run an 37 qt ARB fridge freezer and LED lights and a fan for a RTT. I recently added 150 Watts of solar panels to take advantage of the D250S' MPPT solar charge controller capability to extend the approximately 48 hrs of power the battery is able to provide on its own. Solar panels will eliminate the need to idle the engine each day to partially top up the battery.

Here's a link to my build thread: http://expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2127653

A significant benefit of a DC to DC charger installed near the house/service battery (esp. for installations where the service battery is some distance from the starting battery) is that they are able to provide adequate charge voltage to ensure a fully charged battery...something that won't happen if the service battery is simply wired in parallel with the starter battery. Additionally, a DC to DC charger should include the ability to automatically isolate the service and starting batteries to avoid flattening the starting battery.

EDIT: As others have suggested, you will want to wire and fuse your trailer and size your battery bank for the accessories you intend to run. However, considering the cost of quality batteries (esp. deep cycle AGM type batteries) you will want something more than a run of heavy cable from you starting battery to charge and maintain your investment in house/service batteries.

Even if you ignore the relatively minor voltage drop for a long run of heavy gauge cable, you are likely to have difficulty fully charging and maintaining even a moderately sized battery over time without a means of ensuring adequate charging off your starting battery and alternator. You should consider a DC to DC charger in you plan even if only to ensure your batteries are charged and maintained properly. Additional benefits of some DC to DC chargers is an inbuilt solar charge controller; a must if you plan to incorporate solar panels. As an example the D250S has a built in MPPT solar charge controller.

Another detail to consider with DC to DC chargers is the current they charge at. On its own the D250S can charge at up to 20 amps off an alternator and up to 80 amps with the Smart pass add on. Charging with solar panels will vary depending on the type/capacity of the panels and the type of charge controller (PWM or MPPT).

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[wirenut]

If your building a trailer you might as well wire it for a real power system. Those no need to pay extra for a pre-packaged generic system.
I'd install LED lights and a good battery bank. Maybe 2 6 volt golf cart batteries in series or an AGM if you want to put it inside. Add a fuse block and run wires to your water pump, stereo, etc.
Solar panels are cheaper on a dollar/ watt basis the larger you go. I'd go about 120 watts minimum to get a reasonably good deal. Add a good charge controller, maybe with meters, and you should be good. You can add an inverter too if you'd like.
If you want to recharge when plugged in IOTA makes some nice on board type battery chargers.