Por-15 opinions and Experiences

Doing some rust repairs to my truck bed and it will be removed. Thinking about coating the truck’s frame with POR-15 rust encapsulator while it is off. Would like to know the forum’s opinion on this product.
 

javajoe79

Fabricator
Good stuff for sure. Follow the directions. I’ve used it for years. I just did a 79 bronco frame for a customer. If you let it dry on your skin, it will be there a while.
 

JaSAn

Grumpy Old Man
I did the frame, bumpers, winch, and underbody of a '51 Power Wagon about 15 years ago; still no rust. It is impervious to brake fluid, gas, oil, gear lube, lacquer thinner.

A couple of things:
- get and use a fresh air breathing mask, not just a filter. This stuff can do damage to your lungs if you breathe it in.
- follow their directions for metal prep.
I sandblasted the metal, washed with their cleaner, used their metal prep, and covered the POR-15 with Chassis Coat Black.
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
Huge fan here too, I used their products to clean, coat, and primer several old cars. Use the metal prep products and follow the instructions closely.
 

vtsoundman

OverAnalyzer
Clean the metal - the flakey stuff. Works best of applied over a light layer of rust. It is called Pour Over Rust /Paint Over Rust...it is really nice stuff.

The fumes are very very toxic - read the MSDS - it is loaded with isocyanates.
Use a OV respirator when messing with this stuff. one can develop toxic shock pretty quickly and one of the lasting issues can be heightened sensitivity to chemicals. Not to be a fear monger - but I love the stuff and have personally witnessed what can happen if you mess around with isocyanates (and POR-15).

Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk
 
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DirtWhiskey

Western Dirt Rat
I have used POR 15 with success but it is highly prep dependent for whatever reason. I've now switched to Mastercoat which is a two part system: https://nomorerust.com/store/home/14-mastercoat-super-special-chassis-kit.html

It is a primer (the best primer I've ever used) and a top coat frame paint called AG111 and it's the best system I've used. They made their name in the bridge painting game. In my experience way less prep sensitive. You really need to knock the scale and any loose stuff off for any product but I've put this stuff over roughed up painted surfaces and it really holds. Not cheap but most of your cost will be labor (don't forget to value your time!) anyway so a few extra shekels doesn't bother me. Buy some paint stripper wheels (be sure to verify your grinder doesn't exceed the wheels rpm rating, or better yet get a variable speed grinder) and maybe an air needle scaler. Better yet have the frame blasted!

Of note as mentioned these frame paint systems are all highly toxic so I don't recommend spraying unless you have a real ventilator system.
 

Fredricksen

Member
I needle scaled my frame and gave it the POR 15 treatment.

AND... My oil pan is an absolute abomination with rust and age..and JB weld (no judgement please)
I would need to lift the engine to replace the pan and that is not in the cards at the moment.

I called the POR 15 customer service line asking questions regarding which, if any, of their products could help..
I was curious since they have patch and putty products as well.

The guy was super knowledgeable and helpful. He recommended I use their degreaser, then metal prep, then the Rust Preventive Coating like it was fiberglass resin.. alternating the coating with fiberglass matt to build up the layers and reinforce the pan. He said it is impervious to the oil, and the temperatures as well.

So that project is on my schedule for the end of the month.. yay me!
 
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reddrum

New member
Incredible paint/protector. Started using it 20+ years ago when I worked at a place doing Ferrari restorations. Can put it over light rust, but make sure nothing flaky is left.

Just did the frame of my truck when I took the bed off as well.
 

Outdoorsben

Observer
A bit late to the thread but when I did a frame off restoration on a CJ5 we used it on all the metal parts under the body as well as the bumpers. Not a spec of rust on it 10years later in New England. We must have not put enough of the UV coat on it as the top of the bumper flaked off but the underside where there was no sun was still perfectly fine.
 

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