Please Check My Wiring Diagram

[Jerkeejoe]

I'm an absolute noob when it comes to this stuff, but I've done a fair amount of research and think I have a setup that will work.

The idea is to have everything except for the fuse box and solar panels on/in a cart like this one: Rolling Cart so that I'll be able to take power dang near anywhere I can lug this setup. The solar panels will be hinged together to make a portable setup. The fuse box will be permanently mounted to the trailer.

I'm thinking I'll connect the charge controller to the fuse box and inverter using Anderson connectors or something similar so that I can simply unplug from the fuse box and be completely disconnected from the trailer. Not on the drawing are disconnect switches that I will wire between the solar and the charge controller and between the batteries and the charge controller.

 

[lowrider_rt2000]

2 questions...what size amp is your charge controller? What size is your inverter?

Sent from my WJ

 

[Jerkeejoe]

30 amp charge controller. Haven’t decided on an inverter yet.

 

[lowrider_rt2000]

Your inverter will likely have to connect directly to battery.
Charge controllers "load" output is usually limited to or less than whatever maximum of charge controller.
In your scheme, thats likely 30A, so dont expect an inverter much over 250W of inverter output.

Yes. I would directly connect the inverter to the batteries. There will be too much of a load on the charge controller. That's how I have my setup. I used the output on the charge controller to run led lights and a 12v fan.

Sent from my WJ

 

[Jerkeejoe]

That makes sense. So, charge controller will connect direct to batteries, and inverter will connect directly to batteries (with a disconnect switch between batteries and inverter).

Otherwise everything good? Ok to use Anderson connectors to connect portable solar/battery/charge controller setup to fuse box installed on trailer?

 

[Alloy]

If you want to add a battery monitor in the future run all the neg to a common point (bus bar or stud on he chassis) then run 1 neg to the battery. Later on this wire can be cut and a shunt installed.

A disconnect between the solar panels and the controller

A battery disconnect

Battery temp sensing

2 x 6V (golf cat) will give you between 220Ah - 260Ah depending on the group size. It is best to avoid having batteries in parallel. Batteries in series or a single battery is the best.

Both the 250w - 300w inverter and controller loads are small enough that these could be pulled off the fuse box then everything would have circiut protection.

Use fine stranded wire and a good crimper. The fine stranding increases the contact inside crimped terminal ends

 

[Jerkeejoe]

I understand that the 12v parallel is not ideal, but it’s what I have for now. I think the way I have it diagramed is the best way to run parallel though.

I made some modifications to the diagram. Added disconnects, fuses, and a discharge monitor. I believe the charge controller will show me the power from the solar, to the batteries, and the “load.”

 

[lowrider_rt2000]

This my setup. I've been using this setup for 3 years now. My inverter has a remote on/off with output and battery level switch/controller. It uses an Ethernet cable from the inverter to the remote/switch. Your scetch looks like my setup. I'm very pleased with mine.

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[Jerkeejoe]

Ok, time for an update. Got most of the parts in.

Updated diagrams showing how I plan to set up the rolling cart. Batteries will go in the bottom box. The rest of the mobile components go in the top box. The panels connect to the controller via Anderson connectors mounted to the exterior side of the top box. Batteries connect the same way from below. Fuse box and switch panel will be permanently mounted to the trailer and wired to the interior and exterior lights and will also connect via Anderson connector.

 

[Alloy]

I understand that the 12v parallel is not ideal, but it’s what I have for now. I think the way I have it diagramed is the best way to run parallel though.

I made some modifications to the diagram. Added disconnects, fuses, and a discharge monitor. I believe the charge controller will show me the power from the solar, to the batteries, and the “load.”

View attachment 469326

That looks good. . . best way to parallel batteries

Connecting the controller and inverter to the shunt and having one neg from the other side of the shunt to the batteries will allow the meter read the whole system.

I like to used the A Type BlueSea switching breakers so I don't need worry about using all may spare fuses if there is an issue.

The manufacture ratings of solar panels can be exceeded with reflecions and/or higher altitude. It is best to size the wire/fuse at 125% of the rated output.