Pitchblack Rally Recce Raider Build

CharlieNorth

Well-known member
Yup, me again, rear springs, I tossed the helper spring and added a full length main spring. I bought mine from John Baker who obviously is no longer with us. I ran 5 leafs in total. I did most all of this build when the rig was just 12 years old, turbo swap, suspension, ARB locker,etcM1tank1.JPG
 

irish44j

Well-known member
Yup, me again, rear springs, I tossed the helper spring and added a full length main spring. I bought mine from John Baker who obviously is no longer with us. I ran 5 leafs in total. I did most all of this build when the rig was just 12 years old, turbo swap, suspension, ARB locker,etcView attachment 745566

This one is an 89, though, so i have coil springs out back :) I test drove an 87 with leaf springs and the handling difference is night and day stock for stock.

I am basically keeping a look out for springs in the back that have a higher rate but will keep the same height. Or I will get the four-door coil springs and compensate for the extra inch up front. Tbd. I don't really want to lift it further since the kind of terrain I go on doesn't really require huge ground clearance.
 

CharlieNorth

Well-known member
I have not looked at the rate numbers in a few decades, rate wise. get the 4 dr and cut as needed. Go a bit at a time but no reason to not do it. being the end of the last coil is functionally dead it simply is no issue. See what it drives like. Look at the 4dr sway bar as well. I just looked at some numbers, the 2dr swaybar is 20mm, the 4dr is 26mm
 
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irish44j

Well-known member
I have not looked at the rate numbers in a few decades, rate wise. get the 4 dr and cut as needed. Go a bit at a time but no reason to not do it. being the end of the last coil is functionally dead it simply is no issue. See what it drives like. Look at the 4dr sway bar as well. I just looked at some numbers, the 2dr swaybar is 20mm, the 4dr is 26mm

Funny you mention the sway bar, as I was just researching that aspect last night. However, I'll have to correct you there - the 2dr V6 models had the 26mm swaybar stock (I measured mine to be sure), and I remember having to get the 26mm bushings when I switched to poly. I suspect the 2dr V6 models (88-90) may also have the 4dr torsion bars as well, since they basically weigh the same up front as the 4dr - though that's more difficult to measure for sure.

I'll see if I can find some 4dr rear coils though, since I *know* those are stiffer than the 2dr coils.
 

CharlieNorth

Well-known member
The parts books show 20 for the 2dr and 26 for the 4dr. The books also show 88 and 89 with a different Pn but both listed as 20mm. Yes yours may have a 26 but that might not be original.
I have done allot of spring swaps decades back by wandering salvage yards with rule and vernier in hand.
 

irish44j

Well-known member
The parts books show 20 for the 2dr and 26 for the 4dr. The books also show 88 and 89 with a different Pn but both listed as 20mm. Yes yours may have a 26 but that might not be original.
I have done allot of spring swaps decades back by wandering salvage yards with rule and vernier in hand.
I suppose anything is possible. I also had a second V6 raidar as a parts car and it also had the 26mm, based on the old brackets that I still have. I almost wonder if it was something they did only on the Raider badge models rather than on the Mitsubishi ones.

When I bought this one It was bone stock in every way, as far as I can tell.
 

z168

Member
Since the shop was busy and they usually give me the hookup, I told them I'd just come back tomorrow to get them, not like I'm going anyplace. Other than that, the only thing I really did today was install the manual hubs that came in. Got a pair of new Aisin hubs

ltNe3rMh.jpg

newbie question - why did you opt for manual hubs? Dont the OEM automatically hook up?
 

irish44j

Well-known member
newbie question - why did you opt for manual hubs? Dont the OEM automatically hook up?
Under certain conditions yes. But they are inconsistent and they unlock if you have to go backwards, And they are hard to lock if you are already stuck lol. The manual hubs are much stronger and eliminate a possible points of failure when off-road.
 

CharlieNorth

Well-known member
newbie question - why did you opt for manual hubs? Dont the OEM automatically hook up?
Hubs, they depend on your mission, If you primarily drive roads a car could get down and occasionally onto steeper rough stuff that for the most part you will make it through with minimal backing down, the factory hubs are fine.Now if you start driving tougher stuff that is steep rough where you routinely will have a wheel in the air and now need to back down just a bit to adjust your route, now it is common for the factory hub to disengage, and you generally will not know this till you break traction going forward and the hub slams in again.
Not a big thing but also not a good thing.
 

irish44j

Well-known member
For a while I've been considering getting some spacers. This thing is short in length and tall in height and I'd like a slightly wider stance (for stability and admittedly for looks). I happened to come across a good deal on a full set of nice 1.5" spacers so figured what the hell. Anyhow, they came in today and appear to be good quality.

K5D5HqLh.jpg


So went ahead and installed, of course (blue loctite)

4ZvQ2QJh.jpg


Anyhow, the wider stance makes the truck feel more stable and less tippy when cornering. And looks decent. I still may want to get some small fender flares down the line, but we'll see.

3TI9q61h.jpg


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HOIV641h.jpg
 

TheRizz

New member
I've enjoyed reading this build thread more than any other here. I know next to nothing about wrenching, but these little trucks are just too cool not to want to save and keep running. Thanks for the entertainment and inspiration!
 

Salonika

Monterror Pilot
That small amount actually changed the feel of the handling? I mean I get it on a race car, little adjustments equal major changes in feel, but for a normal street car just doing the grocery run?
 

sedole

Active member
That small amount actually changed the feel of the handling? I mean I get it on a race car, little adjustments equal major changes in feel, but for a normal street car just doing the grocery run?

I felt a pretty noticeable difference on both my gen 1s after putting 1" spacers on them
 

irish44j

Well-known member
That small amount actually changed the feel of the handling? I mean I get it on a race car, little adjustments equal major changes in feel, but for a normal street car just doing the grocery run?

Yes, I was actually pretty surprised since the 1.5" spacers on my competition rally car are almost unnoticeable in terms of feel (And it actually IS a race car!)

But at least in theory it makes some sense since moving wheels outward lowers the roll center of any vehicle, which may be more noticeable on a tall vehicle with soft suspension like this, versus a lower vehicle with firm suspension like a race car.
 

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