Pequod - A 2019 Ram Power Wagon Build

nater

Adventurer
I am waiting to get the panel (it should arrive today) to start to sort out placement. I dont want it "in my face." I am thinking about the small open storage area above the shifters. With a little fab, I might be able to fit both my HAM radio remote head there, and my sPOD panel. I dont think they would be very visible from outside the truck, but easy to reach, which is always a plus for me.
 
So an update... I was originally waiting on 4th gen ram electronics to release their kit which interfaced the factory "auxiliary buttons". Unfortunately, I would like to get a power solution squared away and they seem to be taking a while.

I looked at the sPOD system, the switchpro system, and several others (including some DIY options). I ultimately decided to go with the sPOD Bantam. It's solid state, has 8x circuits that are each rated for 30 amps, and the control panel is not too large. I opted for the "HD" control panel vs the touchscreen, as all reports indicate the touch screen is difficult to use if your bouncing around, and I just dont like that many screens in my face at night.

It arrives tomorrow, so I will begin to figure out mounting solutions for the control panel and the "fuse box" unit. They connect with a single cat5 cable, so routing through the firewall should be easy using the clutch block off plate that is left open on my automatic truck.

After getting this squared away, next steps will be lighting, my HAM radio, and a bed cap.

great choice BTW.

spod told me i was the first to install the bantam on a 2500, and let me tell you, i should not be the last. The unit went about 1.5 years and then it was having some issues. Spod had me send in the bantam to review, and they replaced a 1.5 year old system with a new unit.
cant beat that customer Service. Well, im not sure what happened, but i purchased their first to market batch, and they have had revisions.

the Bantam unit is sleek, and your wiring will be even sleeker.
Flawless integration and HD switch panel is great.
 

nater

Adventurer
great choice BTW.

spod told me i was the first to install the bantam on a 2500, and let me tell you, i should not be the last. The unit went about 1.5 years and then it was having some issues. Spod had me send in the bantam to review, and they replaced a 1.5 year old system with a new unit.
cant beat that customer Service. Well, im not sure what happened, but i purchased their first to market batch, and they have had revisions.

the Bantam unit is sleek, and your wiring will be even sleeker.
Flawless integration and HD switch panel is great.

Where did you mount the fuse box portion of it? Good to hear im on the right path
 
pop the hood and look in front of the fuse box. There is ample space available to mount the bantam in front of the fuse box, but it will need a custom mounting plate. Could do with large tin snips and some sheet metal. There is plenty of support structure to thread a few bolts too.

the spod,fuse box, battery, firewall, are all in a nice parallel series to keep wiring loom tight and clean.

the shop i had do the install took excess sheet metal and cut out a nice trapezoid shape, rattle canned it, and didnt charge me anything "additional" for it.
 

nater

Adventurer
pop the hood and look in front of the fuse box. There is ample space available to mount the bantam in front of the fuse box, but it will need a custom mounting plate. Could do with large tin snips and some sheet metal. There is plenty of support structure to thread a few bolts too.

the spod,fuse box, battery, firewall, are all in a nice parallel series to keep wiring loom tight and clean.

the shop i had do the install took excess sheet metal and cut out a nice trapezoid shape, rattle canned it, and didnt charge me anything "additional" for it.
That sounds ideal, but I'm having a hard time visualizing... got a pic?

Edit - I just looked at some pictures, looks like the 2019s may have had some layout changes, I have almost no room between the headlight and the fuse box (4" or so? ). Let me know if I'm not seeing this right!
 
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well your right, a pic of my engine bay does you no good as they have in fact made some changes.
i do not see any great locations for it, other then heavy duty velcro on the fuse box....leave excess wire for all your connections and its easy to lift out of the way to gain full access in the fuse box.
ive seen it done with spods over the years many times.
 

nater

Adventurer
Well. Had a few free minutes this weekend (hard to find recently with getting the dog ready for the season, and getting the house baby ready.

I have the wiring and loom on order for the first round of accessories. Need to get some heat shrink.

I used the spod brand 90 degree bracket, and with a little dremel action, it fits perfectly. And the only paint I had was bright red, but I can't say I hate it! 20191006_083238.jpg
 

nater

Adventurer
Finally got around to installing my purple cranium differential armor. I was on the fence about these vs new diff covers, but a buddy picked up a set of these for his truck, and they will be more than tough enough for me. Of note, the "arms" are through welded through the baseplate, so they should not pop free with a hard hit. I considered black, but could not resist adding some color under the truck for people to enjoy at stop lights...

In other news, I am almost ready to show off the mounting plate I made for my HAM radio. It will be mounted under the rear seat (where it folds), and utilize existing bolt holes (I dont like drilling into my brand new truck). Should be pretty slick if it turns out the way I have pictured in my mind!


20191009_091915.jpg20191009_091852.jpg
 

nater

Adventurer
Also added the AEV trim rims... I know AEV sets themselves in the market as a premium product, but these are really overpriced for what they are (at least based on my looking at them. I do love the way they look!20191009_110531.jpg
 
I have those trim rings too, but I’ve taken to leaving them off most of the time for two reasons:

1) if you have a flat on the trail, it sucks to take all those little screws out, and you’ll definitely lose one or at least one of their plastic washers

2) if you happen to have any shop change or rotate your tires, odds are you’re going to end up with rounded out hexes and/or threads stripped in the wheel.

Neither of theses are hypotheticals in my case, unfortunately. But they look good!
 

singlefin

New member
Is is easy to remove the decked drawers after installed? Kinda want the storage day to day but want to remove when I need the depth of the truck bed.
 
Is is easy to remove the decked drawers after installed? Kinda want the storage day to day but want to remove when I need the depth of the truck bed.
Honestly, in a full sized truck, it will take you about 15-20 minutes to remove by yourself. After you do it a few times, it will take less time. Putting it back in is similar. If you are driving a mid-sized pickup, it is a little more involved and may take 30-40 minutes, as it is connected differently near the cab.
 

nater

Adventurer
I would agree with @TheDECKEDGuy . If you have a helping hand (they are not super heavy, but are large), it would go even faster. I bet I could get mine out in 15 minutes flat, maybe 20 to put back in.
 

nater

Adventurer
I have those trim rings too, but I’ve taken to leaving them off most of the time for two reasons:

1) if you have a flat on the trail, it sucks to take all those little screws out, and you’ll definitely lose one or at least one of their plastic washers

2) if you happen to have any shop change or rotate your tires, odds are you’re going to end up with rounded out hexes and/or threads stripped in the wheel.

Neither of theses are hypotheticals in my case, unfortunately. But they look good!

I leave them on just to make it harder for my wheels and tires to walk away at night... I will pre-remove them before going to get tires rotated, etc. Even with the right tool, its a job to remove all those bolts!!!
 

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