people with portable solar panels...

[Swiftone]

...where are you mounting your solar controllers? Apparently I have been doing it incorrectly. I have a 2012 F150 that we summer beach camp in So California. 4 days/3 nights a few times a year. Dometic CF35 runs off starter battery with solar back up.

My current system uses a Odyssey Extreme battery (65-PC1750T) as my one and only battery, and I had been supplementing it with a Renogy panel with a 30 amp PWM controller at the panel and 12 gauge wires run to Anderson PP connectors in my dash which in turn are a 12 gauge run to the battery (fused) Total length of the 12 gauge run from controller to battery is about 25 feet. So far I have not had any power issues - fridge runs 100% and we use a invertor to fill up air mattresses.

I originally set it up this way so I would have 12 volt power to my dash for "stuff" Figured it was also a good place to plug in my solar panel when parked.

So, keep as-is or should I relocate the solar controller to a spot lot closer to the battery? Looking at the battery numbers (74 ah with a 145 reserve capacity) it is possible I have been running strictly on battery power and the panel (as set up) is not really helping at all. Hope that is not that case as that is a lot of wear and tear on my battery.

Pics of current set up


https%3A//i.imgur.com/EyMo9gcl.jpg[/img]']
https%3A//i.imgur.com/uyi13zSl.jpg[/img]']

 

[TantoTrailers]

I am new to solar but from what I read the closer the controller to battery the better the charge efficiency. Mine is about 6’ from battery and 10’ from panels.

 

[dreadlocks]

A dedicated (separate from fixed panels) controller is inside next to the battery, you'll have less losses if the high voltage side is the longer run, and the controller can do temp compensation if its capable..

Too far away and the controller has no real idea what the battery voltage is and may persistently over/under charge your bank..

 

[hour]

Too far away and the controller has no real idea what the battery voltage is and may persistently over/under charge your bank..

Never understood the appeal of these portable ground deploy panels all over amazon that always come with some undesirable charge controller affixed to the back of the panel. I've seen youtube videos of people setting their battery boxes behind these units but what a pain in the ass that would be. Mfgs should just use the void of the panels as accessory storage (clips and stuff) for transport when briefcase closed. Include 8mm to clamps, rings, 8mm extension, 8mm in/out on charge controller if they must. Let cc be used in fixed position for people that lug batteries beneath their panels, or remotely mounted (and just as easily omitted from the equation for something else)

 

[dreadlocks]

There's some folding setups that come w/no controller, I'd suggest going after that.. then rewiring them so they are in a series, and hooking em up to like a SmartSolar 75/10 installed as close to battery as possible.. maybe spend a lil more for a 75/15 if you think you might expand to two briefcase panels.. at higher voltage in series you could put em on the end of 50-100ft 12awg and still have pretty high output.

https://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-Foldable-Suitcase-Without-Controller/dp/B00LXG4AXS/

 

[TantoTrailers]

My Aims Power 120W foldable came without a controller, 2nd one arrives today, I will be wiring them just like you stated but with my Renogy 30A Rover MPPT controller! Giggity!

 

[shade]

Never understood the appeal of these portable ground deploy panels all over amazon that always come with some undesirable charge controller affixed to the back of the panel. I've seen youtube videos of people setting their battery boxes behind these units but what a pain in the ass that would be. Mfgs should just use the void of the panels as accessory storage (clips and stuff) for transport when briefcase closed. Include 8mm to clamps, rings, 8mm extension, 8mm in/out on charge controller if they must. Let cc be used in fixed position for people that lug batteries beneath their panels, or remotely mounted (and just as easily omitted from the equation for something else)

That, or put the charge controller at the battery end of things with the alligator clips.

 

[dreadlocks]

I zip tied a cheap lil direct to battery w/no controller panel to the hood of my riding lawn mower, cut off alligator clips and crimped on some ring terminals, its never had a problem starting in the last 4 years.. heh.. for being cheap junk it does well if you dont have any high aspirations.

 

[Swiftone]

How does a SmartSolar 75/10 handle being under the hood? I have plenty of room to install it, but wondered how it would do in the engine compartment.

 

[john61ct]

Yes, SC should be mounted right at / close to the battery.

If FLA, not directly above it, fumes are corrosive.

Minimize the wire length, and

ensure its temp gauge is sensing the battery environment, if there isn't a remote sensor.

 

[TantoTrailers]

Question about the temp sensor. How helpful is it and how does it work? If the battery runs warm it sends less power? Is it truly beneficial or marginal gain in performance?

 

[dreadlocks]

SmartSolar networked with a Victron BMV can be a considerable distance from the battery, it will use the BMV's terminal post voltage reading wirelessly..

however they usually do just fine under the hood, as long as it can get some airflow and isint put right next to the exhaust.

With lead batteries the charging voltages change for various stages with battery temps, its not for gains in performance but to extend battery longevity by properly charging it.. its a little less important for portable secondary charge source, but starts to become worthwhile when your solar becomes the primary charge source for a bank.

 

[Alloy]

...where are you mounting your solar controllers? Apparently I have been doing it incorrectly. I have a 2012 F150 that we summer beach camp in So California. 4 days/3 nights a few times a year. Dometic CF35 runs off starter battery with solar back up.

My current system uses a Odyssey Extreme battery (65-PC1750T) as my one and only battery, and I had been supplementing it with a Renogy panel with a 30 amp PWM controller at the panel and 12 gauge wires run to Anderson PP connectors in my dash which in turn are a 12 gauge run to the battery (fused) Total length of the 12 gauge run from controller to battery is about 25 feet. So far I have not had any power issues - fridge runs 100% and we use a invertor to fill up air mattresses.

I originally set it up this way so I would have 12 volt power to my dash for "stuff" Figured it was also a good place to plug in my solar panel when parked.

So, keep as-is or should I relocate the solar controller to a spot lot closer to the battery? Looking at the battery numbers (74 ah with a 145 reserve capacity) it is possible I have been running strictly on battery power and the panel (as set up) is not really helping at all. Hope that is not that case as that is a lot of wear and tear on my battery.

Pics of current set up


https%3A//i.imgur.com/i0Wo4iAl.jpg[/img]']https%3A//i.imgur.com/i0Wo4iAl.jpg[/img]']https%3A//i.imgur.com/EyMo9gcl.jpg[/img]']
https%3A//i.imgur.com/i0Wo4iAl.jpg[/img]']https%3A//i.imgur.com/i0Wo4iAl.jpg[/img]']https%3A//i.imgur.com/uyi13zSl.jpg[/img]']

Pick up a $25 Amazon clamp on ammeter that reads DC amps then you'll know if the panel is working. If it's been working then why change...........

I would avoid putting a controller in the engine compartment.

 

[Swiftone]

Was looking at the Renogy web page this morning and they sell 3 or 4 suitcase solar panels with mid range PWM controllers hard wired and attached to the panels. These are not cheap amazon portable ground deploy panels, but quality products from a known company.

Kind of begs these questions:

1) what happened to always attaching the battery first?
2) do they feel remote controllers will adequately charge the battery?

 

[dreadlocks]

1. Solar Feed lines are always hot, they are trying to idiotproof it more than likely.. take Zamp for example, you pay 2-3x the cost so you dont have to splice/crimp on connectors to use the port your trailer came with.
2. They dont care, especially for portable panels as they are not designing em to be a primary charge source, and they are about half the size need to be.. If your battery dies a year or three early, its unlikely someone will trace blame to poor charging from a portable panel.

I cut off the MC4 plugs off my panel, and crimped and shrink wrapped an anderson powerpole to it.. it can handle being pluged/unplugged countless times, self cleaning, wont reverse connectors on me like SAE, can be daisy chained, can install locking pins so they dont come unplugged, and more.