Pajero/Montero NL Blister Fender gen 2.5 Shock Absorber discussion

So I placed my order with Rock Auto for the Bilstein B8 5100's for the Ford Super Duty 24-065283 8.23’’ 21.50’’ 13.27’’ Stem EB1* 1/2” | 12mm Yes 398/94 14mm - this will be for the rear.

Then I will be placing my order on Monday for the front B6 Bilstein 24-017947 4600 shock made for the Pajero.

Thanks for the help @Toasty

Will give feedback once fitted.

Now to make some bump stop spacers and get longer brake lines.
Any suggestions for the brake lines?
 

Toasty

Looking for that thing i just had in my hand...
B-line makes some if you want good quality stuff, if you want cheap you can buy a rubber line for any of the leaf sprung Monteros or pickups it's longer.


 
B-line makes some if you want good quality stuff, if you want cheap you can buy a rubber line for any of the leaf sprung Monteros or pickups it's longer.



Thanks!
Would like to go braided, mite as well.

Do the handbrake cables need any extensions at all?
those already seem "tight" on my truck
 
The 12mm studs will work but the bottom you'll need to remove the sleeve and install a locknut so you don't have to over torque and crush the eyelet. Or replace the bushing and install a 16mm sleeve.

As for valving, stock is 463/269 on a non adjustable suspension Montero, the softest setting on the adjustable is 362/183 to give you an idea on that. Type in the part numbers you found and see what their valving is. If you go with a longer than 13" compressed length shock you may need to get bump stop spacers, I recall that specific shock was the tallest possible with the bumpstops coming in contact before the shock bottomed but i still recommend a spacer or taller bump especially if you haul heavy loads or drive fast.

Hey @Toasty or anyone else with advice.

So my shocks arrived! Super amped to get cracking with them, also got new tie rod ends and ball joints for the front while I am at it.

IMG_7082.JPGIMG_7083.JPG

I have a question now, regarding the bottom eyelet mounting for the rears:

IMG_7087.JPGIMG_7088.JPG

My first question is, are those stainless sleeves shown here, necessary for the installation of the shock? As I understand, they are to sit securely in the rubber bushing so that any rotation of the shock eyelet around the mounting bolt is metal on metal, and not metal (bolt) to rubber (bushing), as to not wear away at the bushing, is this correct?

Can I run a shock just on the bushing and bolt without the metal sleeve?
The Bilstein shock bushing ID is 16-17mm, perfect for the M16 mounting bolt used on the oem rear, so not using the sleeve would mean an ideal fit.

@Toasty you mention ditching the sleeve and using a lock nut with an M12 bolt, this would lead me to believe the sleeve isn't needed?
Also, I could machine up some reducer top hats to make the mounting bracket securely take an M12 bolt. My concern here, is even stepping up to a higher grade bolt of 12.9 for the M12 bolt, it's sheer strength is still not that of a lower grade M16, which the OEM bolt is.
Have you Safely used M12 bolts there? I would like to avoid this.

My thought is this:

- Bore out the rubber bushing on the shock to say 20mm from its original 16mm, get in a 16mm sleeve and use it like that with the original bolt. What do you think?

or

- No sleeve and rubber on bolt action?

Please let me know your guys thoughts?

Any comments on what the sleeves are for and how critical they are?

Thanks!
 
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Hey guys,

Just removed my Rear Sway Bar and installed the Bilsteins in the rear! ( Haven't driven it yet, no time yet!)

I wan't to ask,
any clever, cool or innovative ways to setup/make rear coil spring retainers for the Monty's/Pajeros? Especially if you have any idea's that would not allow rotation of the springs when they come out of their perch so it seats back correctly!

Thanks!
 
Hey guys, so small update here:

I have installed the Front Pajero specific B6 4600 Bilstein Monotubes ( B6 Bilstein 24-017947 ), and the Rear B8 5100 Bilstein Monotubes off of an F250 Ford as mentioned previously ( B8 5100's for the Ford Super Duty 24-065283 )

Along with this I have removed the rear sway bar.

So far I am enjoying the shocks front and rear and the ride is nicely damped and comfortable, albeit with some extra roll in the rear from the sway bar removed. I don't mind the sway bar removed so far, I do drive with my family (wife and daughter) so I am very aware of how it has affected the handling with more roll&leaning in the rear, I don't really drive over 100-110KMPH/60-65MPH. I am getting use to it, I wouldn't say its for everyone, but myself and my wife don't mind it, we are just careful at highway speeds about sudden/emergency swerving as that is the only time I feel like the car is uneasy.

For the purpose of my following questions, I am running Ironman uprated Torsion bars, lifted around an inch in the front over stock. Also Nissan GQ Patrol STD Springs, around 3.5"/85mm lift +- in the rear.

So I took the car out for a little flex test today on a cargo ramp at a local store.
Pics below:

I am quite stoked with the articulation/flex, it definitely seems good, from my experience I would put it at around an 80 series landcruiser with a 2" lift for comparison. Maybe a bit better+-.
When taking my measurements underneath for how much l want to space my bump stops, and checking clearances etc, a few questions came to mind:

- I am stoked with the flex, but somehow imagined I would gain more with these shocks providing around 2" more travel at the shock (must more than your regular 2" lift shocks off the shelf for the pajero). From the Pics, what are your opinions on the amount of flex? Do you think it should be more, or does that look about right?

- My first area where I checked to see where I need to bump stop my travel was the shock body against the Radius arm in the rear, where I stopped in the pics, I would need around a 1"/25mm bump stop spacer, to keep the shock body at a "fair" distance before contacting the radius arm under more flex and binding/damaging the monotube shock. At that 25mm bump stop spacer limit, the shock body has around 3mm space/gap to the radius arm.
With this in mind:
The shocks still have almost an inch or more travel left.
I didn't realize binding on the radius arm would be my "biggest" concern or limiting factor. Has anyone else experienced this, and is there anything you can do to gain a bit more travel and still have space between your shock body and radius arm?

- I thought my springs my get to the point of "popping out" because of the amount of suspension travel, but they still seem pretty securely in their perches at this point mentioned with the shock radius arm limit.
Being that the Patrol springs fitted to my truck are around at least 3"/75mm longer than regular springs, is that why they are still secure, being so tall? As I have heard I would need spring retainers with these shocks/travel length shocks, and mine would fall out. But as I said, mine don't, does that mean something is limiting the travel that I should be getting or are my springs just that tall?

- Can the Panhard Bar limit travel? Mine is still standard length and mounted to the standard mounting points. Would this in anyway limit the suspension travel?

- So the shocks still have more travel in them to give, it's mainly the radius arm - shock body space limiting at the moment as far as I can see.

Looking forward to any advice, thanks!

IMG_7217.JPGIMG_7219.JPGIMG_7221.JPGIMG_7229.JPGIMG_7232.JPGIMG_7233.JPGIMG_7234.JPGIMG_7236.JPGIMG_7237.JPGIMG_7241.JPG
 

Swigglemeister

New member
Thanks for the info! ? Really appreciate it!
Found these options on the Bilstein catalog as well:View attachment 729922

Still looking for the right valving for the FJ/4Runner option I posted
I ran those 5156's before and they were really nice. I'm no shock expert and honestly once you get custom valved shocks even at the low end of the price spectrum everything over the counter becomes about the same. The most bang for your buck is going to be whatever you get a deal on.
Sorry to bud into your past conversation Symmetry and Toasty but I have a question regarding valving. I'm needing new shocks all around and after stumbling upon this thread and Symmetry's video with the 5100s I'm looking to go down the same "Flexy" path as you two have previously discussed. Regarding the valving on some adjustable shocks produced locally here in Australia based on your experience @Toasty with the aforementioned 5165s would you say this can handle comfortably 200-300kgs of added weight with 366/240 or something similar to the standard Montero/Pajero valving but valved more accordingly to the added weight? I'm new to this whole valving thing and would like some guidance regarding everything. Thanks in advanced
 

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