OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!

jagarcia89

Active member
HDPE is pretty tough. I'd bet you could stand on them without worry. I don't think they're that long. I guess it depends on your bed length but there would definitely be a gap between the back of the drawer and the front of my bed.

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Yeah I wish they had detailed measurements on their site apart from just height and length.


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montechie

Active member
Hi everyone. I've been lurking on this thread for a little while gathering ideas. I love the DIY culture of the ovrlnd camper squad! I've placed my order on an Ovrlnd shell for my yet to be delivered Ford f250, basically going to do a similar build to what a lot of people are doing here. Bedrug, Insulate, pretty basic electrical system. Also putting sail track on both sides as well as the back of the camper.
I'm planning to keep the bed of my truck empty so I can continue to use if for work, so a permanent 80/20 buildout isn't in the cards. But I've come across something interesting that I haven't seen in this thread yet that I thought I'd share. I'd like to hear what this group thinks of these bed side storage boxes. Not sure if they could be mounted in a way that they could easily be removed, but if I can figure that part out they would at least add a couple of benches to the sides of the bed along with a little bit of storage.


I like the design, except the drawers for my own use cases, I feel the price is high compared to some comparable solutions. The drawers would be good for small items, but that's about it, I would prefer a top lid system with movable vertical dividers, both for inside access and the ability to fit awkwardly shaped or medium sized items. I went with bedside JCR molle panels and just Voile/Titan strap items to them, even gas cans, propane tanks, bikes, etc. I also reuse an aluminum box from my LJ that is similar to the ton of classic truck bed boxes. Both solutions allow for way more volume of storage, totally flexible and removable, and the total is about half the price of one Mobilestrong box.
 

VanDominator13

Observer
I like the design, except the drawers for my own use cases, I feel the price is high compared to some comparable solutions. The drawers would be good for small items, but that's about it, I would prefer a top lid system with movable vertical dividers, both for inside access and the ability to fit awkwardly shaped or medium sized items. I went with bedside JCR molle panels and just Voile/Titan strap items to them, even gas cans, propane tanks, bikes, etc. I also reuse an aluminum box from my LJ that is similar to the ton of classic truck bed boxes. Both solutions allow for way more volume of storage, totally flexible and removable, and the total is about half the price of one Mobilestrong box.

Yeah, I may just have to make something myself. Those are pretty expensive and I dont see the drawers being very useful. Using the molle panels doesn’t really appeal to me. I’d rather have a small bench on either side with a flip top lid to store stuff in.
 

montechie

Active member
I added Havlock wool to the ceiling under the OVRLND headliner. Super easy to undo/redo the headliner, I like the material OVRLND used, it's foam backed and provides both a bit of insulation and breathability. There are rivnuts at each end and velcro holding the sides of the liner. We added a single layer of wool for now (2" ~R7-value). I think the headliner is snug enough to hold the wool batts in place, I'll see in a couple months. A single box of Havlock (100sq ft) provides more than enough to insulate probably any OVRLND size, with my Gladiator bed I'm going to have lots extra.

The wool is very easy to work with, cut with scissors, and can quickly pull off tufts to fill in any gaps. With two people it took us about an hour. Even though the wool is non-toxic you'll want a mask and eye-protection for the install, it drops some wool dust/fibers. Not the cheapest option out there ($150/100sqft), but I was really intrigued by using such a good natural insulator, has great mildew+moisture control over anything else and the Havlock stuff isn't chemically treated.

I still have to settle on what to cover the walls with over the wool, so that's a project for later. Breathability is key since wool has it's own moisture control, I'm looking at headliner material, auto carpeting, DWR treated canvas, or even marine carpet. The marine carpet is tempting because it is foam backed and would insulate the metal beams really well without the need for additional foam/neoprene tape.
havlock-wool.jpg
detached-headliner.jpg
wool-added.jpg
 

ns7i

Member
I'm in the thick of my interior build out!
Et8MVKTh.jpg


There's more in my build thread here: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...ng-build-adventure-thread.217522/post-3028006
 

ns7i

Member
Hello- can anyone explain the difference between the regular camper and the AF model? The website isn't clear. TIA!

The regular camper looks like the cabover portion is attached to the box of the rest of the camper. The AF camper is more like a bigger top is attached to the top of the camper that goes all the way from the cabover thru the bed. The AF cannot have extra bedding height but you can do two tone colors with it.

Here's Jay's explanation: https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17940530422828282/
 

dstefan

Well-known member
I'm in the thick of my interior build out!
Et8MVKTh.jpg


There's more in my build thread here: https://expeditionportal.com/forum/...ng-build-adventure-thread.217522/post-3028006

Nice sketch-up job on your build thread. Looks promising! +1 on your comments in that thread on being prepared to cut your own.

FWIW Dewalt makes a nice combo drill/tap. The 1/4-20 works perfectly with the existing 10 series central hole. Just use some oil and don’t use an impact wrench like some say to — you can easily break the bit. Ask me how I know …
 

ns7i

Member
FWIW Dewalt makes a nice combo drill/tap. The 1/4-20 works perfectly with the existing 10 series central hole. Just use some oil and don’t use an impact wrench like some say to — you can easily break the bit. Ask me how I know …
I was hoping to find one at the local hardware store but I had to settle for a manual tap. That is painful so I have two 1/4-20 combo taps on the way already. Definitely planning on going easy on the bits but figured I'd get a second one just in case.
 

dstefan

Well-known member
I was hoping to find one at the local hardware store but I had to settle for a manual tap. That is painful so I have two 1/4-20 combo taps on the way already. Definitely planning on going easy on the bits but figured I'd get a second one just in case.
Yep, that’s what I did too. One other thing I found helpful is to slightly countersink the top of the existing 8020 hole first. Prevents it from binding the bit at the end.
 

crismateski

American Adventurist
I added Havlock wool to the ceiling under the OVRLND headliner. Super easy to undo/redo the headliner, I like the material OVRLND used, it's foam backed and provides both a bit of insulation and breathability. There are rivnuts at each end and velcro holding the sides of the liner. We added a single layer of wool for now (2" ~R7-value). I think the headliner is snug enough to hold the wool batts in place, I'll see in a couple months. A single box of Havlock (100sq ft) provides more than enough to insulate probably any OVRLND size, with my Gladiator bed I'm going to have lots extra.

The wool is very easy to work with, cut with scissors, and can quickly pull off tufts to fill in any gaps. With two people it took us about an hour. Even though the wool is non-toxic you'll want a mask and eye-protection for the install, it drops some wool dust/fibers. Not the cheapest option out there ($150/100sqft), but I was really intrigued by using such a good natural insulator, has great mildew+moisture control over anything else and the Havlock stuff isn't chemically treated.

I still have to settle on what to cover the walls with over the wool, so that's a project for later. Breathability is key since wool has it's own moisture control, I'm looking at headliner material, auto carpeting, DWR treated canvas, or even marine carpet. The marine carpet is tempting because it is foam backed and would insulate the metal beams really well without the need for additional foam/neoprene tape.
View attachment 724320
View attachment 724321
View attachment 724322
Good to hear your experience with the Havelock, I am still researching but my current plan was havelock in the roof with polyiso in the walls. Do you have a pic of the headliner material? I may have to hit up Jay to get one built.
 

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