OVRLND CAMPERS ONLY : Post your OVRLND Camper build here or a link to your build thread to inspire others!

dstefan

Well-known member
^^^ Looks good! Are you using the rigid foam boards for the ceiling too?

FWIW, I’d really encourage you to forget about Reflectix. It has very low R value. I used this stuff and its worked great for both heat and cold.

Plus, pretty good price for 48”x25’. Same to work with as Relectix, just better.
 

dstefan

Well-known member
One question about insulation. Are folks insulating the tailgate itself? (not the sealing around the tailgate) I'll be taking the panel off my tailgate soon to put on a Mountain Hatch and was wondering if anybody has felt the need to put any sort of insulation inside the tailgate? Thanks
A lot of folks use a Bedrug, which is 3/4” closed cell foam on the floor and a bit thinner in the bed walls. Its quite insulating, including the tailgate, but the TG is insulated/cushioned like the walls, not the floor and deforms around any ridges/depressions on the TG with use. I’m going to add some 1/2” closed cell foam under it like Aaaslayer when I get my rig back from regearing and lockers.

Bedrugs are really helpful keeping dust down too
 

aaaslayer

Active member
^^^ Looks good! Are you using the rigid foam boards for the ceiling too?

FWIW, I’d really encourage you to forget about Reflectix. It has very low R value. I used this stuff and its worked great for both heat and cold.

Plus, pretty good price for 48”x25’. Same to work with as Relectix, just better.


Thank you. I will be using the remaining foam board I have left. 1" thick. Still have 1 board left and scraps from the other 2 boards I used. I will have to make some taper cuts towards the ends and towards the metal dowels for proper fitment. I'm using a hot electric knife for my cuts though so it is a breeze. No mess no crumbs or foam to pick up. Just have to make good measurements beforehand and the cutting part is too easy with the hot knife.


I already bought a giant roll of Reflectix at Lowes. I know the R value is low but I'm using it mainly to cover the NON foil faced side of the foam board and also to cover some of the metal studs and help with thermal bridging a bit. I had seen you link that stuff a few posts back but I believe it was a bit too thick given that I'm already using 1" foam board and still have to do coroplast so I decided to pass on that nicer stuff.
 

dstefan

Well-known member
That’ll get the job done too! Forgot I mentioned it earlier …

One bad thermal bridge I cant decide what, if anything, to do about is the camper sill plate that rests on the bed. Gets really hot or cold. I have some stick on neoprene tape that would work, but not sure if I want to do it or not …
 

aaaslayer

Active member
That’ll get the job done too! Forgot I mentioned it earlier …

One bad thermal bridge I cant decide what, if anything, to do about is the camper sill plate that rests on the bed. Gets really hot or cold. I have some stick on neoprene tape that would work, but not sure if I want to do it or not …
if you don't mind sharing a pic, I'd like to see what you are referring to exactly. Last night I was placing my new 4" mattress up there. I found a website that does custom fitted zippered mattress covers for a very reasonable price. Today I will continue the ceiling insulation on my lunch hour. The ceiling is challenging to do due to the many cuts I have to make, but definitely doable just not as easy as the walls were lol. Making good progress though. Going to look for some sturdy felt material at Joannes that doesn't wrinkle as easy, to get ideas for headliner. Will be attaching it in strips with velcro; at least that's the plan for now, could change.
 

aaaslayer

Active member
Here's a little update from last night. Used a hot electric knife to cut the mattress. Made it easy, and clean cuts, just the fumes are terrible and I didn't use a mask (yes stupid me don't worry I held my breath during every cut then immediately stepped away to breathe again)

I'm working with 68x80 bed space so I ordered a 4" foam mattress in king size. I had to cut it down from its original dimension to 68x80, then i cut 40"x68" for the mattress you see in the pics. This is the mattress that fits up there perfectly when stowed. I fit up there if I sleep diagonal which I don't mind. I'm not that tall. When the bed is pulled out, I have another 40x68 of space. So the rest of the mattress I cut into 2 strips of 20"x68". These 2 strips will function as both box bench cushions downstairs, for the storage benches I've yet to build. When I have guests sleeping with me, I'll deploy the bed and move those cushions up top to complete the bed. Otherwise, if camping solo (which is most the time), those cushions will remain "downstairs" and I will sleep comfortably up top in the 68x40 space up there with the bed stowed.

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dstefan

Well-known member
if you don't mind sharing a pic, I'd like to see what you are referring to exactly.
I’d be happy to, but the truck is in getting gearing and lockers finished. I should have said “truck bed” not bed earlier. I mean the sill plate that has the clamps and that you bolted through.

BTW, I think the close fitting mattress you’re cutting is gonna solve a lot thermal bridging in the cabover that we experience with just using thin closed cell foam and Thermarests. Seems like the mattress thickness should help at the edges. I insulated the cabover walls carefully down to the composite “floor”, but still had to leave bare aluminum where the top composite slides. can definitely fell the cold seeping in there. May try the neoprene self stick tape there, if its thin enough.

The other insulation mop up I need to do is seal the 45° corner miter cuts Jay has on the composite. Being open definitely hurts the composites ability to serve as an insulating barrier. Not sure it’ll make much difference though — theres not much to warm the air layer trapped in the composite.

Are those still open on the newer campers?
 

aaaslayer

Active member
I’d be happy to, but the truck is in getting gearing and lockers finished. I should have said “truck bed” not bed earlier. I mean the sill plate that has the clamps and that you bolted through.

BTW, I think the close fitting mattress you’re cutting is gonna solve a lot thermal bridging in the cabover that we experience with just using thin closed cell foam and Thermarests. Seems like the mattress thickness should help at the edges. I insulated the cabover walls carefully down to the composite “floor”, but still had to leave bare aluminum where the top composite slides. can definitely fell the cold seeping in there. May try the neoprene self stick tape there, if its thin enough.

The other insulation mop up I need to do is seal the 45° corner miter cuts Jay has on the composite. Being open definitely hurts the composites ability to serve as an insulating barrier. Not sure it’ll make much difference though — theres not much to warm the air layer trapped in the composite.

Are those still open on the newer campers?

Ohhh, you mean the aluminum angle iron? Yes I know what you're talking about. I never even thought about that part lol. Didn't think it'd be a big deal, but I think that neoprene sticker foam will be good for that. May not insulate much if any, but it'll make it easier on your hands when touching.


Yes the mattress I cut to be a nice snug fit and with the covers I'm having made, it'll be nice and snug to the point of touching the cabover section which I think will definitely help some. I didn't even plan on insulating that particular area. Today I did about 40% of the ceiling now. Ran out of foam to put up there because it's in my garage at home and I'm still at work. I'll cut up more pieces tonight and continue over the weekend.

So on my v.2 camper the cab over is made from aluminum C channel. As it meets at the front to wrap around there is a 45* joint, and yes they're "open". Not sure what you meant by that, but you have the composite board sitting on the C Channel as that's where the strength comes from to hold your weight up top. I will not be insulating any of that part at the front of the cab over though, I think the 4" foam mattress will help enough. I'm not looking for absolutely total insulation like say a slide in type of camper. I'm used to a rooftop tent with no heater or insulation just my sleeping bag and that was more than enough for a good night's sleep. I think the insulation of the side walls and ceiling will be a big help, the reflectix, and the wall will help. I think that'll be more than sufficient for me, and my wife and daughter. I also have a heater for them if need be but plenty blankets and the insulation and sleeping bags will be plenty enough.
 

aaaslayer

Active member
Can you share that site? I may go the mattress route eventually.
Definitely! Keep in mind this is my first time using them, and the only negative reviews I came across were from people who said they made their covers slightly oversized. But they do state on the site that they add up to 1" per side if need be to make things easier to fit in the cover. At first that kind of made me hesitant in buying, but I paid $137 dollars SHIPPED for 3 covers, with zipper, UV resistant and waterproof 600d fabric. That's DIRT CHEAP to be honest, so if it's slightly larger than my mattress, I can live with that. They have 25% off this weekend for MLK. Yesterday when I found them they didn't, so when I saw that today I immediately jumped on it. I was getting quotes of $300 or more from other sites so at $137 shipped it was a no brainer.


https://www.coversandall.com
 
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aaaslayer

Active member
Hello,


Here's an update. Finished up the insulation. 1" foam board, reflectix, and got my walls today. Coroplast in white. The black will be for my ceiling and for the storage benches. Can already tell a major difference inside the camper when I'm working inside of it at night time and it is low 40s outside.


Got my mattress covers in the mail today but no one was home to sign for them so they'll try again tomorrow. Walls will be cut to size over the weekend and put up using velcro for now. Also bought aluminum rivnuts that'll I'll be putting into the studs to assist in holding the wall up and also used to attach L track inside the camper.


After the walls are done, it's time to build out my storage benches.
 

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dstefan

Well-known member
Also bought aluminum rivnuts that'll I'll be putting into the studs to assist in holding the wall up and also used to attach L track inside the camper.
Looks like a great start!

FWIW, for my Coroplast panels I went to two different fasteners. For through attachments into the frame in the corners and a few edges I used 3/4” self-tapping lathe screws with a smaller diameter 1/8” drilled starter hole. Super easy and they have an integrated washer type flat head. If you dont screw them down too tight they dont distort/collapse the coroplast and they have held really well over time. I've also used these for bungee anchors. Thought maybe they’d pull out, but they hold great for that use too.

Where the coroplast butts up to the sill plate or corners, I found some 4’x 1/4” alu angle at McMaster Carr. I cut it to about 2” pieces and put VHB on one side only. They work well to hold the edges and corners tight and flat where needed.

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Sorry, no pics of the lathe screws on hand and my truck’s in getting its 500 mile diff fluid check and change after the regear break in. Can get one tomorrow if you need.

I used alu Rivnuts in several places too, mostly for heavier things like the wood panel and electric switch box combo, my Wave 3 heater and some 8020 add-on. Works great, but a bit of a PITA and overkill IMO for light stuff.
 
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