ovrlnd camper - full vertical hatch vs full barndoors

[bgraboyes]

I have an ovrlnd on a ford f150 and love everything about it but the dust. this is NOT due to the camper but more the crazy porous f150 tailgate. the little spoiler on the rearmost portion of the tailgate makes sealing even harder. Currently have half barndoors on the camper. Also use a rigd swingout for bikes and, almost as important, a place to mount propane outside the truck bed. I am planning on ditching the tailgate and either...

1. extending the barn doors to full height or...
2. scrapping the barn doors and going for a full size hatch

I am trying to make sure i have thought of everything good and bad about both setups before full send. Things ive thought of so far..
- full barn doors - will hit the rigd swingout so wouldnt be able to open all the way, though maybe i can just mound the propane to one of the doors and get rid of the swingout. maybe just get over it and store propane inside the bed while traveling and just put it outside while camping?
- vertical hatch - will be harder to close from the inside of the truck due to the long lever arm. will drain water back toward the inside of the camper when open and i havent thought of a good way to direct water away from the inside.

just throwing my thoughts into the ether and hoping someone smarter than me catches somthing i'm missing.

 

[sideburns]

I just put down my deposit for an ORVLND, going with full height barn doors for the sealing, weight savings, and ease of closing while inside. Always hated the awkwardness of closing a hatch while inside my old topper, I can't image trying to close a full height hatch. Ovrlnd did offset full height barn doors for someones F250 with a swingout, so they can open one door without using the swing out. Might be an option. But their swingout had the tire offset too and you still can't open on door more than about 90° it looks like, though maybe if you opened one door first, then the swingout.

Here is another option for dust, positive pressure with a filtered intake. This is what I'll probably do to keep dust out, but not have to plug my drain holes up. Just mount one on the very back of the roof.

 

[kerry]

There are forward facing pop up vents designed to pressurize the camper and keep out dust. Australians use them all the time

 

[rruff]

There are forward facing pop up vents designed to pressurize the camper and keep out dust. Australians use them all the time

They are called "scupper vents" and can be bought on ebay (shipped from Oz).

The problem I see is... no control. You won't be able to close it while driving so when you are behind someones dust cloud, the dust will go right in. Plus if it rains, it will get wet.... and
No screen. Bugs, birds, and other debris can find their way in as well.

Pressurizing the cabin is a good idea, but I was thinking a vent with a rainshield, dust filter, and small blower.

 

[kerry]

The one I saw in Australia wasn’t that open. I think it had a screen but you’re right it wasn’t remotely contrllable.

 

[kerry]

 

[rajacat]

Use tailgate seals + BedRug. Make sure you order the tailgate hinge gap covering version. I have had no trouble with dust so far. If you don't want the Bedrug, order the tailgate hinge covering gasket. Double up the TG gaskets if needed. I like my F150 tailgate. It's aluminum. I use it with a tailgate assist. https://www.amazon.com/Dee-Zee-DZ43204-Tailgate-Assist/dp/B01AP2BNS0/ref=sr_1_3? I have no problem closing it from the bed. Icrid=L2VDGQR8PPCZ&dchild=1&keywords=tailgate+assist+f150&qid=1604088152&sprefix=tailgate+%2Caps%2C304&sr=8-3

Amazon.com: ESI Ultimate Tailgate Seal with Taper Seal 10ft for use with Truck Caps and Tonneau Covers: Automotive

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XLT Truck Bed Mat | Bed Liners & Mats - Bedrug | Bedrug

View the all features & benefits of the XLT truck bed mat by BedRug comes with a built-in tailgate mat. View images, video, installation, warranty, get price & find a dealer.

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[86scotty]

For your roof vent, howbout a remote controlled Maxxair vent? I have put them on several rigs and will be adding to my Super Pacific pop top on day one.

 

[billiebob]

So vehicles overcome the rear dust problem with a high pressure intake at the base of the windshield and low pressure exhaust in the tailgate. Shut that off by closing the fresh air and going to recirculate the air as with AC and you lose the pressure difference allowing dust to infiltrate.... and moisture to build up too. the easy way to fix a pickup canopy is to seal the cab to the canopy and open the rear cab sliding window. This was a common fix in the 1970s with a tube to seal the gap.

Another old school fix, more to keep the rear clear of sust and snow were air deflectors which were built into every station wagon in the late 1960s. Not sure it will stop the dust infiltration issue.

From the days when gas cost 17 cents a gallon....


and the built in D Pillar Deflectors on the 1966 ColonyPark.... this was Dads Overlander in the day lol


I like kerrys solution with an air scoop too but I'd go more this way..

 

[rruff]

the easy way to fix a pickup canopy is to seal the cab to the canopy and open the rear cab sliding window. This was a common fix in the 1970s with a tube to seal the gap.

That's what I did on every camper to date. Not gonna work on the one I'm building now though.

The main problem with any "scupper vent" is a lack of control. It's all fine when you are alone on a road, but when there is a slower moving vehicle (or a faster one passing) in front and putting up a big dust cloud, you need to close it. Plus bugs and birds and... whatever is in the air will be forced into your camper. I also see it getting torn off by tree branches.

I think a tube with a fan and filter would be ideal, but see nothing on the market.

 

[Wrathchild]

I have an OVRLND with barn doors. I have no water intrusion and dust is minimal. Before installation I pulled up the bed rail caps and sealed underneath with silicone. Sealed all the drain holes in the bed floor. Sealed the screw in tie downs. Tailgate seal and foam blocks in the stake pockets. I have a bed rug with the tailgate flap. But I cut it off since it would trap water and freeze making it difficult to shut. I also built a sill out of angle aluminum that is VHB taped to the tailgate. And doubled up the bulb seals.

 

[bgraboyes]

Wow! thanks for all the responses today! I had tried the rokblock and all the bulb seal i could fit in all the spots, sealed all the seams in the bed and put a dust flap on the bottom of the barn doors. all to no avail! I can't figure out what i am missing. My f150 tailgate has the added problem of the tailgate step which is really hard to get to seal and makes it maybe a little harder to mesh with the barn doors.(put bulb seal in there as well).

I decided to go full barn doors a few days ago and they are supposedly being built soon. I am pretty psyched about getting them on and they will actually be modular. since they are just attached by a few bolts on each side, i can always pop em off and tailgate back on if need be for moving longer items or something like that. I got tired of messing with the swingout, so i'm happy to get rid of that at the same time. I am gonna mount the propane on the door and build a fold down cook table on the passenger side door. figuring out the propane setup as the propex needs a two stage regulator but stove cant work with that low of pressure but that's a whole separate project. once the tailgate is gone, i think im gonna have a nice spot to install some bulb seal and won't have to mess with pulling the tailgate up which i'm really excited about.

If this fails to fix the dust.... i guess next would be a positive pressure system. i have the same reservations though about following another car on a dusty road and ending up just pushing dust in through the vent... we shall see. Ill post up some pics when i get the extensions installed.