Overlander Camper Frame Material: Aluminium vs Mild Steel vs Stainless Steel?

FurthurMore

New member
Hi all, this is my first post here.

For a while now I’ve been planning on designing and building my own overlanding vehicle. The idea is to use a a ¾ or 1-Ton full-sized pickup truck (Ford F-250 or F-350, Dodge Ram 2500 or 3500, or Chevy/GMC 2500HD or 3500HD) with a long (8ft) bed, remove the truck bed, and build my own camper on the back. Here is a work-in-progress render:


truck camper 1.png


I am still just in the planning stages at the moment, but hopefully I will be in a position to start the build in about 6 months. The camper habitat/box will be constructed of a welded metal framework, with sheet metal panels riveted on to make the walls. The frame will be primarily constructed of 1.5” (38.1mm) square tubing:

camper frame 1.png

Now the question I have is regarding which metal to use for the framework. I keep going back and forth between what material to use, and I hope some of you guys may be able to give some practical advice.
I have three options:

  • Aluminium 6061-T6 (structural grade) alloy: 1.5x1.5x1/8” (38.1x38.1x3.18mm) or 1.5x1.5x3/16” (38.1x38.1x4.76mm) box section. This is the lightest option for a given strength (supposedly – see below). It has relatively good corrosion resistance. I won’t need to worry about the potential for galvanic corrosion at the interface with the aluminium sheet metal wall panels. Can be quite expensive given the thickness I need. From what I hear it can be quite challenging to weld properly. Requires specialist cutting, grinding, and welding equipment.
  • Mild Steel (A513 structural grade): 1.5x1.5x0.065” (38.1x38.1x1.65mm) box section. By far the cheapest and most easily available option. I am worried about rust forming on the inaccessible inner walls of the tube that I won’t be able to paint, but maybe there are ways to alleviate this. Corrosion may be a large concern because of the relatively thin walls of the tube (1.65mm), and any thicker would get too heavy for my truck. The easiest option to weld together.
  • Stainless Steel 304: 1.5x1.5x0.065” (38.1x38.1x1.65mm) box section. Most corrosion resistant, but is most expensive. Hard to drill holes into - and I am going to need to drill over 2000 holes for rivets.

In the grand scheme of things, I’m not too worried about the cost difference between these materials, so that’s not much of a deciding factor.

I understand that people with larger overlanding rigs with much higher payload capacity could just go with the cheap and easy option of using thick-walled (e.g. 3mm+) mild steel box section and not have to worry about interior corrosion damage ever being much of a concern. As I am using a (relatively smaller) pick-up truck as my base vehicle, I need to make sure everything is light as possible; I’m aiming for under 375lbs / 170kg for the frame, thus the need for thinner box section walls (1.65mm max) if using steel. Maybe interior corrosion is not as much of an issue as I am imagining?

Initially I was going to go with aluminium, but I am now having my reservations about this. It is commonly said that weight-for-weight aluminium is stronger than steel. This is certainly true for the engineering concepts of Yield Strength and Ultimate Tensile Strength, especially for structural grade 6061-T6 aluminium alloy. So that sounds like the obvious option, right? However, upon further investigation, I don’t think this paints a full picture, as I will explain below.

This article, although focusing on boat building, has a lot of relevant information:

One advantage of steel is that between the yield point of mild steel (around 36,000 psi) and the ultimate tensile failure point (around 60,000 psi) there is quite a large plastic range (around 24,000 psi or roughly 40% of the ultimate strength), permitting a steel vessel to endure deflection without failure, so permitting considerable ability to absorb energy.
...
A steel vessel will absorb more energy on impact (broader plastic range). An aluminum vessel of "equivalent" design strength will be considerably less easy to dent (a plus), and will have approximately the same ultimate failure point. Aluminum is said to be less "plastic" in that regard; another way of viewing its lesser resistance to flexure and of understanding the primary requirement for rigidity of structure (to avoid flexure) when designing and building in aluminum.

In other words, a steel frame would have higher torsion/flexure resistance and impact resistance than an equivalent (as measured by other strength criteria) aluminium frame. An overlanding frame will, of course, undergo plenty of vibration, as well as torsion (although this is hopefully largely mitigated by a 4-point mounting system that I have planned).


Next, there is a potential issue with welding aluminium. My understanding is that welds in steels are as strong as if not stronger than the surrounding metal, but the opposite is the case for aluminium where the welds are much weaker and more brittle than the surrounding metal. As I am a novice welder (I haven’t even started learning TIG yet, although planning to soon) - I assume it’s much more likely that I would make weak and potentially structurally unsuitable welds in aluminium, whereas this is less likely to happen with mild or stainless steel. Does anyone have much experience welding any of these materials? I am also worried about heat-induced warping which could ruin the frame when I’m fabricating it. I assume this effect is worse on aluminium than mild or stainless steel, but I’m not sure?


Another issue with aluminium is it’s limited fatigue life, which is explained well in this article:
Components made of stainless steel have infinite fatigue life, which means that they will never fail unless the load exceeds a certain level (ie. single excessive load), which causes “plastic deformation” (i.e. bending). The critical shortcoming of aluminum is its finite fatigue life, which means that aluminum components will ALWAYS eventually break. ALWAYS. It’s just a question of how many fatigue cycles the aluminum will survive. The beefier the frame, the longer it will last.

Here is more info on Wikipedia, and this graph illustrates this concept well:

S-N_curves.PNG




But all of what I have said above is all very theoretical – essentially I’m looking for real-world anecdotes or thoughts on the topic.

Perhaps I’m completely over-thinking it, and any of these three materials will do just fine for any realistic stresses that I would encounter?


Thanks for reading!
 

ChasingOurTrunks

Well-known member
I've run through the same technical analysis on steel versus aluminum, for similar reasons. I'm not building an entire camper box replacement but I am doing my own shell and rack system (so far). The other thing I ran across in my research into this that I think is worthy of consideration is the other ways of fastening aluminum bits together. In some applications, a riveted or even glued joint might be preferable to a welded joint because it will allow a bit of natural flex in the joint, as opposed to a rigid weld which can increase strain on the structure if the thing the structure is attached to is flexing (I am not sure how much flexing happens on HD truck frames but it for sure happens on smaller rigs).

However, for my truck cap frame, I decided to make it out of aluminum welded together. It was my first TIG project and I've not had any problems with it in 2 years. No cracked welds, no flexing -- it just works, and is light enough for me to install it on my own. Some welds I had to re-do as I was building it (as any beginner would) but overall it has exceeded expectations in function, but aluminum is a bit more tricky to get a good weld on than steel is. Aluminum warps a lot more, and a lot easier, than steel. It's also very easy to burn through the material. I've been planning on redoing the entire thing, but my biggest issue has been the cost of the materials. Aluminum has always been expensive, much more so than Steel, but lately it seems to be way more than I'm used to, and that makes me lean more towards steel but I'm very limited in payload as I have a mid-size truck; your HD truck should have a bit more wiggle room.

Weight is for sure an issue with steel, but you may be able to go to a lighter material using steel as a fairly strong structure can be created using gusseting, dimple dies, etc. to reinforce the structural elements of your frame, so the weight changes between steel and aluminum may not be as significant. Apart from weight, it seems like your main concern with the thinner-walled steel was corrosion, but I don't think you'll need to worry about internal corrosion -- you can always chemically treat the interior of the box sections to prevent rust (I strongly recommend Fluid Film -- in an enclosed frame it should last forever and virtually eliminate the risk of rust). I've done a few projects that way -- paint on the outside, FF on the inside -- and they are like new.

One thing I looked into but never followed through on was getting an engineer to weigh in on my design before cutting metal. My design was incredibly simple so it proved unnecessary as I have overbuilt it by quite a bit, but if I was to do it again, I would probably get an engineer to sign off on it and try to hit that weight/strength ratio a bit closer. That way at least I know my design will meet my specified needs, and with your project you mind find a bit of money up front on that saves you a ton of headaches down the road a bit.
 

john61ct

Adventurer
If you do keep considering aluminium, rather than the huge challenge that welding poses

have a look at Huck bolts (generic term lock bolts)

Famously strong and very resistant to vibration.
 

rruff

Explorer
The camper habitat/box will be constructed of a welded metal framework, with sheet metal panels riveted on to make the walls. The frame will be primarily constructed of 1.5” (38.1mm) square tubing.

Now the question I have is regarding which metal to use for the framework. I keep going back and forth between what material to use, and I hope some of you guys may be able to give some practical advice.

Are you dead set on a welded metal frame and sheet metal panels? Even if you will always be in mild weather, insulation is a good thing.

Foam core panels with skins of fiberglass, aluminum, or wood (on the inside) are not that hard to do, and provide good strength, stiffness, and insulation. There are many examples of that on ExPo that have been successful.

If you really want to weld something I think the external exoskeleton frames look pretty cool and should work well. You could build an aluminum exoskeleton and make panels with an aluminum outer skin.
 

shirk

Active member
I would suggest following this example.


External aluminum frame with bonded panels.
 

Alloy

Well-known member
Either steel or alum but no stainless.

Weight will be your enemy so choose materials that save the most weight.

Any materials will fatigue if the design is wrong.

Rule of thumb: Aluminum is 1/2 as strong as steel but 1/3 less weight.

Aluminum fabrication is specialized for the person that only works with steel.

Steel fabricaton is specialized for the person that only works with aluminum.

TiG welding produces 2X the distortion vs. MIG welding.

Diagonal bracing should always run corner to corner of a wall or panel (spaces between verticals). If you diagonal brace the panel at one end of the wall diagonal bracing the pane at the other end of the wall is not necessary.

The cross members for the floor and roof should be continuous and the longitudinals should be intercostal.

Give some thought as to what the perimeter of the inside floor ceiling and wall paneling will fasten to.

The skin can be bonded to the frame with glue/caulking
 

Alloy

Well-known member
I would suggest following this example.


External aluminum frame with bonded panels.

Agreed .......less effort and 3 times the resale value.

Edit:..... 5 times the resale value
 

billiebob

Well-known member
Mild steel, if built correctly with attention to detail and proper rain water, road spray, drainage design considerations, rust will never be an issue. The issue is allowing water to drain once it finds its way in....... which it alway will, plus using insulation not affected by water infiltration.

Even if you pick SS, crazy $$$ or aluminium, less crazy $$ you need to allow a path for water to drain. Aluminium offers a marginal weight saving but steel is far easier to weld. The temperature span between melting and boiling is much much narrower with aluminium than mild steel.

Looking at all those triangulated gussets, good idea, I'd recommend just triangles of plate plus a hole. Wayyy simpler, lighter and just as effective.

ps, mild steel is definitely more resilient than aluminium. Look at what 90% of the trailer manufacturers use..... there is a reason.

I agree with the riveting/screwing the exterior sheathing. My 10 year old cargo trailer has that and it allows you to strip the skin and change modify.... repair, anything. 6 years ago I added a left side door, did it in a day.

trlr 003.jpeg

Note how sparse the frame is and this trailer has over 100K miles on it, all in the mountains, many on forestry roads.
i think when we home build we tend to overbuild, compare your design to some commercially manufactured trailers, the right choice is likely in the middle.
 
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Peter_n_Margaret

Adventurer
The best solution is frameless using fibreglass/polyurethane foam/fibreglass sandwich panel.
No cold connections, no high stress points, lighter, stronger, water proof, better insulation, minimal tools and skills. And it is easy :)
No competition.
Cheers,
Peter
OKA196 motorhome
 

john61ct

Adventurer

To me, exoskeleton means the framing profiles are outside the skin that keeps the weather out?
 

MTVR

Well-known member
Thermal bridging would be a MAJOR issue with having the inner and outer skins both attached directly to a metal frame. No matter how much insulation you put in the voids, the heat or cold would be transmitted directly to the interior, making heating and cooling MUCH harder...
 

REF

Member
Not sure if you’ve seen these ready made panel products, but might be useful to your build, or at least for reference. Edit-looks like TC either has or is working on kits available for pickup truck applications.
Found in this build thread





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

DaveInDenver

Middle Income Semi-Redneck
You design for the material and what you can get. Steel makes sense if you can get thin wall tubing in the dimensions you want to use otherwise you're carrying around a lot more weight than you need.

A think about this, aircraft airframes are made from aluminum and you have no qualms about boarding one, do you? If you're worried about aluminum's ability to flex and resist fatigue you probably shouldn't get a window seat.
 

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