Overland Explorer Vehicles (OEV) BASE-CAMP Pickup Camper - Soft-Wall and Hard-Wall Versions

Ninelitetrip

Well-known member
Howard, I agree there is nothing like a good wood stove on a winter night.

Have you seen this thread from montypower (Peter)?

He covers suspension, lift, gearing, tires, winch, lockers, etc. He is active in the forum and answers questions on his build. Also covers the build on his YT channel.

 

Chadx

♫ Off the road again. Just can't wait to get...
Howard, I'll be very interested to see your wood burning stove setup once complete. Not up my alley, but I love to see and read about people doing mods to meet their tastes.

Thanks for the clarification on which Bush Company awning you were considering. I'd compared the "270 XT" because that is what you had mentioned in your previous post. The "270 XT Max" does make more sense due to it's shape and coverage compared to the "270 XT" which targets a square vehicle (like on the back of an SUV overlanding rig). I went back and added the "270 XT Max" image and specs to that thread for future-readers info. Seems like combining one of the 270 XT Max and the 180 XT Max, like you mention, would greatly simply your "both sides" awning solution as they could be mounted on the same plane without interfering with one another. And, that combo would only leave one small corner gap in coverage.

Alu-Cab covers 107 sq feet (10 sq meters). Weight: 55 lbs
Bush Company 270 XT covers 86 sq feet (8 sq meters). Weight: 61lbs
Bush Company 270 XT Max covers 129 sq feet (12 sq meters). Weight: 74lbs
Bush Company 180 XT Max covers 92 sq feet (8.5 sq meters). Weight: 57lbs

To answer your previous question, 37" tires will not fit on any HD pickup without a suspension lift. I'm a big fan of fitting the largest tire size that will fit without any lift, but we personally don't want our rigs to be any taller due to the tree clearance issues we have on the trails we frequent and don't want a higher center of gravity. I do outfit the tallest tire that will fit on stock suspension, but run them as narrow as I can find for the desired diameter because, while I want the tire height (larger diameter rolls over obstacles better), I do not want the width as I don't drive terrain that I needs floatation (sand). Extra width just means a lot more tire weight (worse gas mileage, more unsprung weight, more wear and tear on components), harder to squeeze the tires through tight rock spacing, plus, one can typically fit a taller tire if it's narrower than one can fit if you go wider (because of wheelwell rubbing when at full steering lock). I don't quite get the fascination with such wide tires as that feature is suited to a very limited terrain. From what I read, other countries don't have the same fascination and their taller tires (34"+) are relatively narrow compared to the tires on the US market. I have been able to find relatively narrow tires for the height more recently, which is nice. I like to keep them at 265mm to 285mm wide and you can find tires 33" - 34.5" in that width. Once you hit 35", they suddenly change to very wide tires, (12"+ or 350mm+) unfortunately, in most LT, Load Rated E, all-terrain models. That being said, I love the look of all the overlanding rigs that are on massive 40" tires and huge suspension lifts, but as much as I'd like that type of rig, the overall height and width would mean we can go LESS places than we currently do rather than more.

As for running on washboard, we simply find the speed needed to float rather than relying on suspension upgrade. Ha. Granted, not always possible, but works the majority of washboard roads we've encountered. One will get shock fade as shocks heat up on long (20+ mile) stretches of washboard roads, which piggyback reservoir shocks help with, but finding that sweet spot on speed means the suspension doesn't have to move and work as much in the first place. We ran 30 - 40 miles of "Hole in the Rock" road around Escalante, UT last spring in one session in and same on the way out. On the way in, I stopped to feel my stock 1/2 ton shocks a couple times and they were not heated up at all. I ran non-stop on the way out and checked at the end and again, not heated up...but I ran it like I was in a rally car. Ha. Only shake from the road was in the slower corners where ones speed had to drop to 15 - 35mph. Above that, it was smooth as any other gravel road.
 
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HowardH

Adventurer
I have not seen the thread you mention "Ninelitetrip". I will certainly read it. Thank you.

Chad your thought, "fit the largest size that will fit stock" makes a lot of sense. I would think a 35" for sure would fit. Plus they are readily available. Honestly might try to run stock suspension first. My initial thought for an after market suspension was to optimize the springs and shocks for what the all up weight will be.

Wood burning stove set up won't be much. Just like what is commonly done in canvass wall tents. Actually I have a Clarry pellet burning stove. That is the cat's meow.
 

HowardH

Adventurer

Wow I am through the first 13 pages. I started skimming. My overall take away is stay as stock as possible and aftermarket springs front and rear custom calibrated for the constant weight of truck and camper are well worth doing. Everything else is debatable. Back to thinking I will stick with max of 35" tires unless real world operation showing them to be lacking.

Even seems Carli is a lot more for show.
 

Chadx

♫ Off the road again. Just can't wait to get...
I'm digressing away from OEV and into a subject better located in other threads/forum sections, but...

Stock F350 can take any 34" tire. There are a few specific 34.4" - 34.6" tires they can take if they are narrow enough. A true 35" diameter will usually require a 2" lift. You'll likely find that a 34" will do anything you need to do and should be doing in a F350 with camper on board. Ha. Wheelbase, approach/departure and breakover angles will be the bigger impact and 1" difference in tire diameter isn't going to effect those much.

My 2013 Tundra is on LT265/70-18 and so about 32.6" tall. With proper tire placement and technique and CAMP-X loaded, I've driven quite a few rocky, very steep trails, without scraping, that were questionable enough that my wife had to get out and walk because she was getting uncomfortable. And that is a gal that regularly ATVs up crazy terrain. Unless you plan to take your rig on 4x4 trails with relatively rugged obstacles and trail ratings of 4 and up, a tire over 34" isn't going to gain you much. You're wheelbase and overhangs are going to be way more limiting and a 2" lift and 35"+ won't gain you much.

Back to campers! <thumbs up>
 
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HowardH

Adventurer
Chad I couldn't agree more. Except to say my stock F350 work truck runs 35" with no issue. Not that I even know how it ended up with those. I think Les Schwab sold one of my employee's a bill of goods while my attention was diverted.
 
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HowardH

Adventurer
Hello,

I really wanted the lifting, well collapsing roof. I less wind resistance down the road plus less is more when off paved roads. So yes softball.

No restrictions I’m aware of.
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Looking over the specs, those electric roof actuators are standard on the BASE-CAMP. I'll note that they are also a factory installed option on the CAMP-HBE; though not retrofittable. On the CAMP-HBE, Arnold mentioned that having the electric actuators means no front or rear hinge and so there would be an extra soft top window front and back and looking at the spec sheet, that is the same for the BASE-CAMP. For some, that alone might be a reason to get them. It would be very neat to have front and rear windows for a total of 8 softtop windows!

On the BASE-CAMP, since you would never remove the camper, it makes mounting these a bit more straight forward. Would be curious if the HBE uses the jack mounts (meaning it would be harder to mount the Rieco jacks for unloading) or if they would be on their own mounts.

For either camper, the rear ones look well protects as they are mounted on the back of the camper, but the front ones would be exposed to branches, etc. on tighter trails, so that may also be a deciding factor for some users.

2021-BASE-CAMP-SW-Prototype-14.jpg

Good point about driving down a narrow and treed trail, where there's a possibility of branches getting stuck between camper and front poptop actuators. Maybe they could build a deflector guard at the front of the actuator to deflect branches?

So no BaseCamp HW(hard wall), only SW(soft wall).
And pass-thru from camper to cabin, or no?

Note; their camper weight doesn't include batteries correct?
 
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Chadx

♫ Off the road again. Just can't wait to get...
Howard beat me to it. The passthrough is an option one can purchase. Howard, did you get a cost quote of that specific option? I'm curious.

MK,
The hardsided BASE-CAMP was pulled from the website and not being offered at this time. OEV is focusing on the softsided BASE-CAMP for the BASE-CAMP rollout.

OEV used to provide an AGM battery as standard with Lithium options, but the stopped doing so. There is no issue with transporting batteries across the border so that wasn't a consideration. They noted in a Truck Camper interview that "We do not supply batteries with our campers. There are so many choices and everyone has their own preferred type and brand. Our dealers can also help navigate battery choice. "

The advertised dry weights of the campers are with all standard equipment (and since batteries are no longer standard, are not included in the advertised weight). Anything that is optional adds to that base weight as does water and propane.
 

HowardH

Adventurer
Howard beat me to it. The passthrough is an option one can purchase. Howard, did you get a cost quote of that specific option? I'm curious.

yes I think it was a 2900 option. Yes they don’t provide a few things that used to be standard and probably would be considered typical.

Batteries for one. Some of their campers don’t include the steps either. Yet other things are standard. The Base Camp comes standard with two solar panels for example.
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
Howard beat me to it. The passthrough is an option one can purchase. Howard, did you get a cost quote of that specific option? I'm curious.

MK,
The hardsided BASE-CAMP was pulled from the website and not being offered at this time. OEV is focusing on the softsided BASE-CAMP for the BASE-CAMP rollout.

OEV used to provide an AGM battery as standard with Lithium options, but the stopped doing so. There is no issue with transporting batteries across the border so that wasn't a consideration. They noted in a Truck Camper interview that "We do not supply batteries with our campers. There are so many choices and everyone has their own preferred type and brand. Our dealers can also help navigate battery choice. "

The advertised dry weights of the campers are with all standard equipment (and since batteries are no longer standard, are not included in the advertised weight). Anything that is optional adds to that base weight as does water and propane.

Thx Chad, and Howard.

I remember reading that interview now. Kinda cool that they let the buyer choose the batteries; hopefully that's a positive for dealers/installers too.
 

HowardH

Adventurer
It’s a fine line. You’re selling a low volume, high dollar product. Traditionally built to order. Yet standardized products help control costs. Overland Explorer seems to be walking the line well.
 

HowardH

Adventurer
My camper is moving along. My truck is scheduled to be built the third week of this month. Two weeks to ship to Spokane than trucked to Red Deer for final assembly.

If all goes well I’ll have it early June. Over/under on fuel prices by then?
 

mk216v

Der Chef der Fahrzeuge
My camper is moving along. My truck is scheduled to be built the third week of this month. Two weeks to ship to Spokane than trucked to Red Deer for final assembly.

If all goes well I’ll have it early June. Over/under on fuel prices by then?

Looking forward to seeing Howard!
 

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