Oil cooler housing part number?

jadmt

ignore button user
After close inspection with a bright light, I was able to find one small Chrysler “star” in the bottom side of the filter housing, the front side underneath after it is installed. Otherwise they are the same, down to the purple marker across the bolt heads.

I can’t figure out why this isn’t an aluminum casting. Maybe I’ll make a mold? More fun with casting!

Anyway... all of the top pictures are the amazon part and the bottom is dealership over the counter. They came in identical brown cardboard boxes with small Mopar labels.

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certainly makes no sense that for the environment it lives in it would not be aluminum or some other crack/warp resistant material. Mishimoto was apparently interested in making an improved part but I have not heard anything about when. They were reading various jeep forums and they contacted people who had theirs crack and inquiring if we would be interested in a better one but so far nothing.
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
Given the time and $$ involved to install, and the $500 I just spent for 2 plastic ones, I think 5-600 for an aluminum one isn’t out of the question. I’m not sure, but it doesn’t look like a complicated casting or fluid flow. I’ve been messing around with the idea of home aluminum casting. This would certainly be an “advanced” project, but I might work up to it. In 2019 so far, I’ve spent almost $1700 replacing coolers, I’ll do the next one myself, so no labor spend, but that would be another 600-900, and that isn’t counting the rental Jeep I needed the first time while mine was down. This feels like it is worth figuring out.
 

GB_Willys_2014

Well-known member
I didn't want to start a new thread ... but, my oil cooler died yesterday.

All things considered, I think I was pretty lucky to get 75K on the original 2014 oil cooler.

Anyhow, my Jeep is at my local mechanic awaiting repair. Spark plugs will be replaced too.

Now, hopefully this new part will last at least as long as the original.
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
My heart is sad for you... I feel the pain.

Here is an idea I had, didn’t try, but might.

It appears that this leak is only a “problem” because the oil pools in the engine valley and runs off the back onto the exhaust and transmission, I’m pretty sure that will someday lead to fire.

I seriously considered drilling a few 1/4” holes in the low point down into the engine, allowing the “leak” to drain back down, thus not pouring off the back of the engine.

I didn’t do it yet, but talking with my various car guy friends, I can’t think of an overwhelming reason not to... maybe someday.
 

GB_Willys_2014

Well-known member
My heart is sad for you... I feel the pain.

Here is an idea I had, didn’t try, but might.

It appears that this leak is only a “problem” because the oil pools in the engine valley and runs off the back onto the exhaust and transmission, I’m pretty sure that will someday lead to fire.

I seriously considered drilling a few 1/4” holes in the low point down into the engine, allowing the “leak” to drain back down, thus not pouring off the back of the engine.

I didn’t do it yet, but talking with my various car guy friends, I can’t think of an overwhelming reason not to... maybe someday.
Thanks!!!

It does really suck that FCA produced such a crappy part in the first place. Ugh.

I can live with this as a 5-6 year consumable, but it shouldn't be the case. Instead, I would make the investment in a high quality replacement part, if there was one.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

LeblAR13

New member
My story,

1) Mid Aug, Sensor reading 98 psi steady, no fluctuation. Did some research and replaced sensor with Amazon sensor.
a) about 1 week later, noticed oil leak. I figured I broke the sensor or something as the sensor now read 0 psi.
b) purchased oil cooler from Amazon.
2) Mid September, replaced oil cooler. Leak worsened.
a) removed cooler and found pinched oring on pressure port between engine and cooler (front driver side), replaced Oring.
b) Oil pressure good, still leaking,
c) Removed and replaced seal with seal kit from Quadratec.
d) Still leaking, More research. Someone suggested a Mopar cooler.
e) ordered Mopar cooler on Amazon, it came in a Mopar box. The only difference between the two is a molding ridge on the external of the pressure port, though it was very small. It was also above the Oring so it shouldn't have mattered.
f) Leak fixed and oil pressure working as noted. 85 psi cold or about about 3500 rpm. Oil Pressure about 35 at highway speeds.
3) Early December, Oil pressure sensor at 98psi again no fluctuation. More research, purchased sensor over the counter from dealership. All good.
4) Mid December, Oil pressure at 98 psi, this time I was able to watch it go. Got in the jeep, OP around 45-50 at 140 degrees. OP started climbing after a bit to 98. When cold and you rev the engine oil pressure LOWERS!! Till engine warms up then at 98.
a) bought 20day subscription to online manuals that show troubleshooting and actual wiring of the PINS and harnesses. The sensor is power by 5VDC, the center pin is the signal with about .3VDC being 0psi and 4.7VDC being top range. I found that the signal wire at the plug had 4.8VDC with the ignition on. I checked for a short in to harness to the +5VDc pin of the plug. It was good. I checked for an open ground, none. I disconnected the plug to the ECM and the voltage would go to OVDC. I found the INPUT PIN on the ECM and found 4.8VDC at that pin. THIS IS AN INPUT PIN, THERE SHOULD NEVER BE VOLTAGE EXCEPT FROM THE SENSOR.
b) I ordered a new PCM from Flagship which will be in by weeks end and that will be an easy test.

All told I've had the top of the engine off 3 or 4 times. The Mopar branded cooler didn't leak and this sensor has been verified to be operation on my test bench. The other may or may not have been bad. I never tested them because I couldn't verify the PINOUT. I've used AMAZON parts as well as dealership. I will know more soon.
1578440914341.png
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1578441041046.png

1578441473489.png
 

GB_Willys_2014

Well-known member
My story,

1) Mid Aug, Sensor reading 98 psi steady, no fluctuation. Did some research and replaced sensor with Amazon sensor.
a) about 1 week later, noticed oil leak. I figured I broke the sensor or something as the sensor now read 0 psi.
b) purchased oil cooler from Amazon.
2) Mid September, replaced oil cooler. Leak worsened.
a) removed cooler and found pinched oring on pressure port between engine and cooler (front driver side), replaced Oring.
b) Oil pressure good, still leaking,
c) Removed and replaced seal with seal kit from Quadratec.
d) Still leaking, More research. Someone suggested a Mopar cooler.
e) ordered Mopar cooler on Amazon, it came in a Mopar box. The only difference between the two is a molding ridge on the external of the pressure port, though it was very small. It was also above the Oring so it shouldn't have mattered.
f) Leak fixed and oil pressure working as noted. 85 psi cold or about about 3500 rpm. Oil Pressure about 35 at highway speeds.
3) Early December, Oil pressure sensor at 98psi again no fluctuation. More research, purchased sensor over the counter from dealership. All good.
4) Mid December, Oil pressure at 98 psi, this time I was able to watch it go. Got in the jeep, OP around 45-50 at 140 degrees. OP started climbing after a bit to 98. When cold and you rev the engine oil pressure LOWERS!! Till engine warms up then at 98.
a) bought 20day subscription to online manuals that show troubleshooting and actual wiring of the PINS and harnesses. The sensor is power by 5VDC, the center pin is the signal with about .3VDC being 0psi and 4.7VDC being top range. I found that the signal wire at the plug had 4.8VDC with the ignition on. I checked for a short in to harness to the +5VDc pin of the plug. It was good. I checked for an open ground, none. I disconnected the plug to the ECM and the voltage would go to OVDC. I found the INPUT PIN on the ECM and found 4.8VDC at that pin. THIS IS AN INPUT PIN, THERE SHOULD NEVER BE VOLTAGE EXCEPT FROM THE SENSOR.
b) I ordered a new PCM from Flagship which will be in by weeks end and that will be an easy test.

All told I've had the top of the engine off 3 or 4 times. The Mopar branded cooler didn't leak and this sensor has been verified to be operation on my test bench. The other may or may not have been bad. I never tested them because I couldn't verify the PINOUT. I've used AMAZON parts as well as dealership. I will know more soon.
View attachment 560148
View attachment 560149
View attachment 560150

View attachment 560151
Good stuff. Thanks for sharing.

A couple of questions, if you don't mind:

- Any codes?

- What is your year and mileage?

***

My update: picked up my Jeep yesterday. Issue appears to be resolved. Although, a lot of what appears to be residual oil is making its way down onto my driveway.
 

NatersXJ6

Explorer
My story,

1) Mid Aug, Sensor reading 98 psi steady, no fluctuation. Did some research and replaced sensor with Amazon sensor.
a) about 1 week later, noticed oil leak. I figured I broke the sensor or something as the sensor now read 0 psi.
b) purchased oil cooler from Amazon.
2) Mid September, replaced oil cooler. Leak worsened.
a) removed cooler and found pinched oring on pressure port between engine and cooler (front driver side), replaced Oring.
b) Oil pressure good, still leaking,
c) Removed and replaced seal with seal kit from Quadratec.
d) Still leaking, More research. Someone suggested a Mopar cooler.
e) ordered Mopar cooler on Amazon, it came in a Mopar box. The only difference between the two is a molding ridge on the external of the pressure port, though it was very small. It was also above the Oring so it shouldn't have mattered.
f) Leak fixed and oil pressure working as noted. 85 psi cold or about about 3500 rpm. Oil Pressure about 35 at highway speeds.
3) Early December, Oil pressure sensor at 98psi again no fluctuation. More research, purchased sensor over the counter from dealership. All good.
4) Mid December, Oil pressure at 98 psi, this time I was able to watch it go. Got in the jeep, OP around 45-50 at 140 degrees. OP started climbing after a bit to 98. When cold and you rev the engine oil pressure LOWERS!! Till engine warms up then at 98.
a) bought 20day subscription to online manuals that show troubleshooting and actual wiring of the PINS and harnesses. The sensor is power by 5VDC, the center pin is the signal with about .3VDC being 0psi and 4.7VDC being top range. I found that the signal wire at the plug had 4.8VDC with the ignition on. I checked for a short in to harness to the +5VDc pin of the plug. It was good. I checked for an open ground, none. I disconnected the plug to the ECM and the voltage would go to OVDC. I found the INPUT PIN on the ECM and found 4.8VDC at that pin. THIS IS AN INPUT PIN, THERE SHOULD NEVER BE VOLTAGE EXCEPT FROM THE SENSOR.
b) I ordered a new PCM from Flagship which will be in by weeks end and that will be an easy test.

All told I've had the top of the engine off 3 or 4 times. The Mopar branded cooler didn't leak and this sensor has been verified to be operation on my test bench. The other may or may not have been bad. I never tested them because I couldn't verify the PINOUT. I've used AMAZON parts as well as dealership. I will know more soon.
View attachment 560148
View attachment 560149
View attachment 560150

View attachment 560151

Was there a specific symptom that made you decide to chase replacing oil pressure sensors? Is there some sort of variable oil pressure regulation in these engines? I saw 96 PSI cold on mine and 45 PSI warm and really had no reason to doubt it. The new one reads about the same as the old one.

I haven’t gotten around to pressure testing yet, but the old cooler appears to leak between the aluminum exchanger and the plastic mount. An actual failure of the part, not the seals or sensors around it.
 

GB_Willys_2014

Well-known member
Was there a specific symptom that made you decide to chase replacing oil pressure sensors? Is there some sort of variable oil pressure regulation in these engines? I saw 96 PSI cold on mine and 45 PSI warm and really had no reason to doubt it. The new one reads about the same as the old one.

I haven’t gotten around to pressure testing yet, but the old cooler appears to leak between the aluminum exchanger and the plastic mount. An actual failure of the part, not the seals or sensors around it.
There is a code, P0520???, for a bad oil pressure sensor, and the oil pressure will exhibit wonky pressure readings.
 

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