On to the rocker cover gasket and grommets. While this isn't a hard job it can get a little messy. I started off by disconnecting the throttle, cruise, and transmission cables from the throttle body then removing the 3 10mm bolts that hold the cable bracket down to the intake manifold. Once you have those out of the way you can remove the plastic spark plug wire retainer with two 7/16 nuts that hold it down. After you have all that unbolted you can disconnect the two hoses on top of the valve cover, be careful as these are usually hardened due to age and can easily break the plastic nipples they are attached to if pulled too hard. After all of that you can actually remove the 7/16 bolts and studs that hold the rocker cover down and remove the old gasket. Take note which bolts and studs go where as you take them off so you can re-install them correctly. You'll have to wiggle the rocker cover to be able to lift it off as there is a giant washer on the rear head stud that holds down the ground strap to the fire wall, you can remove it for this service if you prefer but make sure it is clean and tight when you are done otherwise you will have lots of fun electrical issues!
Now that the rocker cover is removed you can see the rockers, valve springs, and push rods. I usually give these a thorough visual inspection to look for any signs of fatigue and or excessive heat which can show a lack of lubrication. The old rocker cover gasket will lift off the two locating pins and fit snugly in the bottom of the nearest trash can.
Grab a clean rag or shop towel and wipe down the sealing surface on the cylinder head till it's clean and then simply lay the new gasket down making sure you line up the holes for the locating pins. Then Clean off the valve cover sealing surface and if your gasket kit came with them you can replace the grommets on the hold downs also. I also like to replace the breather nipple grommets because usually they have also hardened and can seep oil. Take not that if you choose to replace them you should probably replace the two breather nipples as they like to break when being removed.
Re-install the rocker cover and torque the bolts to the factory spec which is 70-80 inch/lbs starting from the center and working out to the ends. Re-install all the other hardware and hoses and you're good to go. Start the engine and inspect for leaks, if there are none shut it off and check the oil level and correct as necessary.
I don't have the dreaded rear main seal leak but I'm sure it will show up eventually…
Some actual moving forward news lol
I purchased a set of 5 TJ Moab 16x8 wheels with good MT/R's on them for a really good deal but I'm not sure if I want to keep the tires as I have really had my eye on a set of Falken Wild Peak A/Ts if my budget will allow.
I had a great technical conversation with Nick over at
Expedition Lighting and ordered up a 22" led light bar and a few of the 2x2 pods to be mounted up later, If you really want to know how LED lighting works Nick is the man to talk to.
I'm thinking of working on a C-Clip retainer eliminator for my Chrysler 8.25 also. I like the 8.25 because I have one in my truck (duh) and it has quite a few redeeming qualities for my purposes over the bolt in XJ D44 and D35 that Jeep offered. I like the thicker axle tubes for better handling of heavy loads, the better Hypoid on the gears, larger tooth contact patch and bigger pinion shaft than either of the other two. Yes I know it doesn't have as much aftermarket support as the others but I not rock crawling and only plan on running 32" tires at most so the parts that are available will do nicely. The reason I choose to try this project is purely for serviceability on the road. Pulling the C-clips sucks to swap an axle or repair a wheel bearing. I'm thinking of machining an adapter to use a press on bearing for the axle and a cup to make it able to slide in and out of the housing like a D44. It's a fresh thought in my head with a few sketches on a piece of paper so wish me luck.
I'm currently debating bumpers / recovery points. I am really leaning towards a
Back Bone and
Tail Bone from Detours as they don't weigh a ton and offer full reinforced recovery points and tire / winch mounting. Not to mention they are budget friendly.
