Norwegian Unimog U1700L camper build

Vegard_S

Adventurer
I wouldn't consider your build to be an amateur job it looks better than some so called professional companies efforts.

You're too kind!?
My goal was all the time to built something that could kinda compare to the fancy $$$$ German made trucks, but at a more reasonable price.... 5 years later my budget is long gone (~2x early estimates...) ...but I'm happy to say that the finished result is at least near to what I was aiming for regarding the build quality and technical solutions.
 

sAsLEX

New member
Thanks! Total height now is 3,42m, The goal is to keep it under 3,5m when solar panels, roof hatches etc. is installed.

A great build and a shame your first proper trip has had to be postponed!

How tall is the box itself ? Just starting the planning phase for my own build so you may get a few questions! (Though I am now off to your website to trawl through there for answers first)
 

Sitec

Adventurer
Thanks, even though we're not able to travel very far away at the moment it is still a strange but good feeling to finally have a fully functional camper, and not just a half-finished old truck that takes up space in the driveway ?
I eagerly await that day here!! ;)
 

Vegard_S

Adventurer
A great build and a shame your first proper trip has had to be postponed!

How tall is the box itself ? Just starting the planning phase for my own build so you may get a few questions! (Though I am now off to your website to trawl through there for answers first)
Including the roof hatches total height from the ground up is 3,46m (exhaust stack is even higher, to reduse noise and smell.., but upper part of it is removed in half a minute if needed). The camper box itself is 3900x2300x2100 (LxWxH) measured on the outside
 

Iain_U1250

Explorer
You're too kind!?
My goal was all the time to built something that could kinda compare to the fancy $$$$ German made trucks, but at a more reasonable price.... 5 years later my budget is long gone (~2x early estimates...) ...but I'm happy to say that the finished result is at least near to what I was aiming for regarding the build quality and technical solutions.

Great job, looks like you followed a similar route to mine time and budget wise :) That you built it yourself makes it worth way more than the fancy $$$ German made trucks in my opinion. Hopefully things get better in the future and we can all start travelling again.
 

Craig Winters

New member
Both the two fixing points in the front of the front of the supportframe, and the one in the rear of the frame have bronze bushings with grooves for grease lubrication. The bolts in the front are Ø35mm and the one in the rear Ø45mm. All three bolts are machined from Cromax 280x steel piston rods , and they have internal channels for grease lubrication.
The two fixingpoints in the front of the supportframe supports longitudinal rotation, and the one in the rear latitudinal rotation. This is the same sollution (although a bit more heavy duty), as was used in the original supportframe, which was attached when we first bought the truck. It's a bit different than the sollution most Unimog campers seems to use on their supportframes, as they often tend to use supportframes with 4 fixing points. - But the theory is still the same, as the intention is that the stiff supportframe is attached to the flexible chassis frame in a limited number of fixing points which can pivot/rotate. - Thus allowing the chassis to flex quite alot, without transfering the flex to the box on top of the support frame, which might would result in fatal cracking.



Pleace fell free to ask, I'm no expert, but will try to answer as best as I can:)

Would you be happy to share the sub frame cad model?
 
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