Newbie gmt800 Advice Needed

YukonDebbie

New member
Howdy folks. Long time lurker, first time poster. Love the site, lots of information. Some times too much information, hence my reason for posting here…

For starters, I’m a total beginner when it comes to off road driving. I’ve had several 4x4s in my life, but aside from northern Indiana snow fun, nothing outside of fire roads. I have always had this dream of building an adventure rig. Now that I’ve got a family and we are settled, it’s time.

A few years back I had an 04 z71 Burb, loved it till fuel prices got the best of our trying to save for a house. Traded it in. Took it on lots of trips, but never any trails.

Fast forward, married and two kids now. Fuel prices were $1.35 around here and we found a sweet deal on an 03 Yukon XL. Wife’s daily for awhile till fuel prices shot up again and we parked it aside from vacation trips. Now I’m getting the itch again and decided I needed something with a solid front axle, so I thought about selling it and going with a 2500 3rd Gen. ram. But after seeing a bunch of builds here and on YouTube, have decided that the Yukon will suit us perfectly fine. It was a smokin deal, have little money in it, its almost completely rust free and super clean. I’ve already got it and it would cost me way more to buy something different.

I have been poking around here for a couple weeks looking at different builds and making notes. Saving threads. But honestly, I don’t know where to start and all the information so quickly has left me frustrated on which direction I should go. As well as being new to this and not knowing which is smarter first.

Truck is completely stock with 200,000 miles. 5.3 4l60e, I know the Limits on the trans, it’s going to get rebuilt this year. Two speed t-case and g80 rear. My first thoughts were a 2-3” lift because this will mostly see highway miles and daily use. But I’m aware of the issues with the cv axles and lifting with keys and rear springs. I can do that lift for around $300.

However I found a used 6” RC lift kit for sale without the shocks, it’s installed on a Burb the guy is parting out. He’s asking $600. It’s the newer design that doesn’t relocate the t-bars. The problem is, I don’t want that much lift. But I have read several guys on here who said it’s really a 4” lift until you crank the keys up. If that’s the case, if I can get the used 6” and crank it down to get me about 4” and retain hood cv angles. I’m down for that. Not sure what the shocks will cost.

Background on me, I’m a mechanic/fabricator by trade. I restore old cars, so I know more about carburetors than I do fuel injection, but I’ve got the resources to learn and figure anything out.

So sometime this summer we are going on our first big family adventure. We are going down to visit my wife’s dad in Arkansas and going to explore the Ozarks for week. Have never been down there, but have always heard about it.

Im on a budget, but I want to do things to the truck that won’t leave us stuck in the middle of the woods if I get us too far in..

Lift.
Tires.
Winch?
Skid plates?

Where do I start? Just looking for a direction so we can safely enjoy our first big trip and it doesn’t leave us frustrated. I’m a good driver with lots of common sense on road, but without any off road experience, I want to be able to get out of a situation if I go too far…

Here’s Debbie, our 03 Yukon XL. Getting her fuel pump replaced a few weeks back. We will be sleeping inside the truck, I’ve got plans for the inside. Biggest questions are the lift at this point. Cheap keys, shocks and springs or spend $600 on a used 6”, only if I can crank it down around 4”. Don’t want a 6”…

ABCA1999-EE26-4B21-B2A7-1889F21D2A2B.jpeg
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
As a former GMT800 owner (I had an '04 Suburban from 2015 - 2019) I would not do a 6" lift unless you know you're going to need it. I put a very basic lift on mine with keys up front and Z71 springs in the rear, with Bilstien 5100 shock all around and was running 33" tires (285/75/16) on stock wheels. Total lift was maybe 2". My 'Burb was primarily a tow vehicle for our travel trailer so I didn't want to go crazy on any kind of mods that would detract from its ability to tow.

The way I looked at it, the Suburban's sheer size was going to keep it away from some of the more extreme trails (I live in Colorado) so unless I planned on sinking a bunch of money into it, I saw no use for a bigger lift or more tire. I was able to run every dirt road or trail I wanted to with the basic 2" lift and 33" tires so there was no need for me to do more.

I realize that on this board it is an article of faith that ALL vehicles must be lifted, but I don't agree. Unless you have run into situations where you couldn't go with a non-lifted vehicle but could have with a lifted vehicle, I would first ask why you are planning on doing any lift at all?
 

YukonDebbie

New member
As a former GMT800 owner (I had an '04 Suburban from 2015 - 2019) I would not do a 6" lift unless you know you're going to need it. I put a very basic lift on mine with keys up front and Z71 springs in the rear, with Bilstien 5100 shock all around and was running 33" tires (285/75/16) on stock wheels. Total lift was maybe 2". My 'Burb was primarily a tow vehicle for our travel trailer so I didn't want to go crazy on any kind of mods that would detract from its ability to tow.

The way I looked at it, the Suburban's sheer size was going to keep it away from some of the more extreme trails (I live in Colorado) so unless I planned on sinking a bunch of money into it, I saw no use for a bigger lift or more tire. I was able to run every dirt road or trail I wanted to with the basic 2" lift and 33" tires so there was no need for me to do more.

I realize that on this board it is an article of faith that ALL vehicles must be lifted, but I don't agree. Unless you have run into situations where you couldn't go with a non-lifted vehicle but could have with a lifted vehicle, I would first ask why you are planning on doing any lift at all?
I appreciate your comment, I’ve read some of your posts in other threads I’ve been looking at. It just got to be too much for me to sort through and I need someone to tell me what to do lol. The only reason I was considering the 6” is because of finding a used kit and it not messing with the cv angles. I’d prefer to do a less involved lift with little modifications because this rig is all stock and who knows it may get returned to stock after we play with it and down the road may go a different route.

As far as a reason for a lift at all, I’m not sure what I’m going to get into. Water crossings aren’t out of the question. Rock crawling is not something I’m interested in and will just turn around. But having only watched videos of a Burb going through trails in the Ozarks with a 2-3” lift and doing just fine. I’m good with that little bit of ground clearance gain for some peace of mind.
 

jbaucom

Well-known member
Those look like later model GMC 18" wheels. The GMT800 Suburban/Tahoe/Yukon/XL was designed for 31" OE tires. I don't think you'd have a problem fitting a 275/65R18 all terrain on there without rubbing, and its a very common size on 1/2-ton 4x4s for the last several years, so there are several options, including some takeoffs that can be picked up relatively cheap. I'd throw a set of those on and see how it works out before I lifted it. If I were inclined to lift it, then I'd do as little as was necessary to fit a 275/70R18, so probably 2 inches. You also get some free clearance just by losing the running boards.

At 200,000 miles I'd be hesitant to begin making major drivetrain or suspension changes to any vehicle unless I was prepared to either throw a lot of money and time at it as it reveals new "weak links," or perform a full suspension and steering refresh while I had it torn down.
 

eugene

Explorer
You mentioned the g80, does it not already have it? If not then most say its not really worth swapping in, the delayed lock can cause it to break easily when it does lock. Unless its already in there then your better off with getting something else.
285-75-r16 I put on my 2004 silverado without any modifications, they just barely rubbed the bottom of the fender liner on the front.
Check of course for the typical, rust and such.
 

YukonDebbie

New member
Those look like later model GMC 18" wheels. The GMT800 Suburban/Tahoe/Yukon/XL was designed for 31" OE tires. I don't think you'd have a problem fitting a 275/65R18 all terrain on there without rubbing, and its a very common size on 1/2-ton 4x4s for the last several years, so there are several options, including some takeoffs that can be picked up relatively cheap. I'd throw a set of those on and see how it works out before I lifted it. If I were inclined to lift it, then I'd do as little as was necessary to fit a 275/70R18, so probably 2 inches. You also get some free clearance just by losing the running boards.

At 200,000 miles I'd be hesitant to begin making major drivetrain or suspension changes to any vehicle unless I was prepared to either throw a lot of money and time at it as it reveals new "weak links," or perform a full suspension and steering refresh while I had it torn down.
Yes the newer 18’s were on it when we got it. Really makes it look a lot more modern than the original wheels. I’d love to keep them, but tires are substantially more expensive for an 18 vs a 16 or 17… Have talked about removing the running boards, but I will have to have something in their place due to a shorter wife and two small girls…

I have not taken the time check over the suspension and steering components yet. Pretty well maintained truck and everything feels tight. Fully on board with rebuilding whatever needs it. Have no worries about the engine at this mileage. Not my first with this kinda mileage or more. The trans shutters in reverse, so that’s getting done before this particular summer trip.
 

YukonDebbie

New member
You mentioned the g80, does it not already have it? If not then most say its not really worth swapping in, the delayed lock can cause it to break easily when it does lock. Unless its already in there then your better off with getting something else.
285-75-r16 I put on my 2004 silverado without any modifications, they just barely rubbed the bottom of the fender liner on the front.
Check of course for the typical, rust and such.
It is factory equipped with the g80. Works fine. Just going to service it. No point in replacing it now if it ain’t broke. Down the road, as we see this adventure progress, I’ll look at better options. But at this point I haven’t even hit the dirt yet…
 

SubSar

Member
If you haven’t already looked at it check out my 03 Suburban build. I was/am in a similar boat as you. Limited budget, not looking to hardcore off road, mainly highway.


I have to agree with the other replies. I would not go to a 6 inch lift. It’s overkill for what you are doing. Keys, Z71 springs and 2 inch spacers out back. Make sure you check if you have the Comfort Smooth Ride option with Self Leveling shocks, I explain what happened on my first round of trying to lift the SARBurban with keys and spacers.

At 200k I would start budgeting a transmission and transfercase if they are both original.
 

YukonDebbie

New member
If you haven’t already looked at it check out my 03 Suburban build. I was/am in a similar boat as you. Limited budget, not looking to hardcore off road, mainly highway.


I have to agree with the other replies. I would not go to a 6 inch lift. It’s overkill for what you are doing. Keys, Z71 springs and 2 inch spacers out back. Make sure you check if you have the Comfort Smooth Ride option with Self Leveling shocks, I explain what happened on my first round of trying to lift the SARBurban with keys and spacers.

At 200k I would start budgeting a transmission and transfercase if they are both original.
Just read your thread last night. Thanks for the insight! Helpful. Transmission is getting done soon. Had not considered the t-case. I will check the shocks, but I had planned on replacing them with this work.
 

YukonDebbie

New member
Just use it as is on some trips with the fam, and let those trips dictate what you need/want to do to it...

Prebuilding trucks before a lot of useage, for said activity, almost always results in money lost redoing things
Well aware of this philosophy. Built a race car once out of a daily driver. Raced it twice and then it just stayed a highway cruiser lol.
 

YukonDebbie

New member
Is it common for the 4L60E transmission to have problems at 200k?
Seems to be about the popping point. Ours currently works fine, with the exception of reverse will shutter. No point in my mind in letting it go, especially with how we plan to drive it. Get it done and not have to worry about it.

But I do have an aunt that has one in a Tahoe, with nearly 500,000 miles and it’s never been rebuilt… all in how you drive it and take care of it.
 

Martinjmpr

Wiffleball Batter
Is it common for the 4L60E transmission to have problems at 200k?

Or sooner. Mine went out at 160k and then again at 180k. First time I had it rebuilt, second time I had it replaced with a reman'd, waranteed unit from GM.

However I did a lot of towing through the Rocky Mountains. I was pulling a 4,000lb trailer over 11,000' passes 4 to 6 times a month for 5 months of the year.
 

eugene

Explorer
It is factory equipped with the g80. Works fine. Just going to service it. No point in replacing it now if it ain’t broke. Down the road, as we see this adventure progress, I’ll look at better options. But at this point I haven’t even hit the dirt yet…
Yep, just have to remember to not be hard on it as the delayed lock can cause a bit of a shock when it engages, thats usually when people break them. And remember its not a limited slip so don't put in any friction additive when you change the fluid.
 

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