Newb here — I need some basic recovery gear and a compressor. Where do I start?

[amongmany]

Ok, before I get out into adventuring too far, I want to make sure I have at least some basic recovery gear on hand.

My list so far includes:
- Recovery points (I've read that the front stock hooks on my GX470 are questionable for this purpose)
- Snatch straps? Kinetic rope? 1? 2?
- A few shackles
- Gloves
- Recovery boards (I'm in SoCal where most adventuring will be desert). I know, I know — buy the Maxtrax.

I also need a portable compressor and deflation kit for airing down and back up.
Right now, I'm weighing the Ironman 5.65CFM unit which is currently on sale for $150 vs. the Viair 400P Auto for $225. Anything I'm missing? Any recommendations for one over the other?

What about a deflation kit? I like the idea of one with a gauge built in so that I can deflate to a specific PSI on all tires without having to guess or overshoot and air up a little. Which is a good one? Ironman? Arb?

TIA!

 

[nwoods]

Great questions!
- Front recovery points are difficult to add, usually requiring frame mods, welding, front bumpers, winches and winch plates, or a combination of the above. Easiest to use use your rear tow hitch receiver and get pulled out backwards. The absolute simplest way is to thread the eye of the tow rope into the hitch receiver and then slide the hitch pin through and lock pin it on both sides. Cheap and effective. You can go up from there in terms of cost, complexity, and effectiveness.

- Depends on the weight of your rig and the rigs you wheel with that will be towing you. I personally like the 3" wide x 30 foot long ARB recovery straps. BubbaRope is also popular and is a true kinetic strap

- Again, ARB shackles 3/4" did, 3T weight rating (I think, its been a while, so double check that). I like to paint the screw pins bright red so that they are easier to find in the dirt/sand/mud/snow, because you will drop them. ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS thread them in until finger tight, then back off 1/4 turn before putting a load on them.

- Cheap leather gloves work for rock stacking, but not for winching. If you are paying out winch cable, the rough leather texture can snag and take you or parts of you along with it. Pro Tip, get bright orange colored gloves so they work like indicator flags when spotting someone. Also, easier to find in the dirt/sand/mud/snow, because you will drop ONE of them.

- "Advice is what others seek when they know the answer and don't like it" Yes, Maxtraxx. However, you will seldom need them. I have wheeled for many years without a pair. They do look cool strapped to the side of a truck though.

- If you like to buy things once, the Viair 450P might be a good choice. The 400P is a bit slow. Study the duty cycles. The higher the better. If you just want to air up so you can get out there and don't car so much, the "MV-50" air compressor is your friend. Sold by dozens of different companies from the land of cheap plastic products, they are under $80 and they work. The MV-80 is supposed to be better, but I've never seen one in real life. Loud, hot, slow, but they work and they are cheap. Did I mention cheap?

- The ARB, Ironman, GreenSlime tire deflators are all the same. Screw em on, they pull the valve core pin out to let out air in a hurry, and have a decent gauge on them. Good kit. Other suggestions include the Stauns, but they are not super accurate in pressure. You get 4 of them, screw `em on, walk away and talk ********** with the others in your crew, then after 10 minutes or so, they are done, +/- a few pounds of your target pressure and ready to go back into the couch. Pro Tip: the valve caps with the lanyard rings on them are fantastic, never loose another valve cap again.

- the ARB Recovery bag is a great piece of kit. Extremely well made, holds your straps, tops, shackles, inflators, etc... and when you are on tow, the large cover flap snaps over the recovery strap and acts as a drag chute in case of synthetic snapback. Also bright orange with reflectors. Great for using holding traffic flare and functions like a traffic cone with the reflectors.

I'm not "pushing" ARB, it just that I have used these things listed above, a LOT, and they never let me down.

 

[Deleted member 9101]

I'd hit up Amazon.

 

[frans]

Puma air compressor

 

[amongmany]

Great questions!
- Front recovery points are difficult to add, usually requiring frame mods, welding, front bumpers, winches and winch plates, or a combination of the above. Easiest to use use your rear tow hitch receiver and get pulled out backwards. The absolute simplest way is to thread the eye of the tow rope into the hitch receiver and then slide the hitch pin through and lock pin it on both sides. Cheap and effective. You can go up from there in terms of cost, complexity, and effectiveness.

Awesome input, thank you!!

RE: recovery points, there are 3 companies that make recovery points that bolt into the frame of the GX (Treaty Oak, Apex Overland and BBG) — was planning to get one of those choices.

 

[amongmany]

I'd hit up Amazon.

Yes, I shop amazon regularly. Anything in particular that you're recommending?

 

[amongmany]

Puma air compressor

I've heard good things about Puma compressors, but the additional size is a let down.

I also just read about the Viair 400H which is attractive for hard mounting, but I'm not super adept at wiring up electrical items, so I'm hesitant...

 

[Deleted member 9101]

Yes, I shop amazon regularly. Anything in particular that you're recommending?

Nothing specific, but I would definitely pay more attention to ratings than I would price or brand. Some of the off brand gear is really good and a fraction of the price of the name brand equivalent.

Get the Amazon visa (pay it off monthly) 5% cash back on most things and then shop black friday sales. Also, in the filters, you can select "used" and that can sometimes save you some money.

 

[nwoods]

I've heard good things about Puma compressors, but the additional size is a let down.

I also just read about the Viair 400H which is attractive for hard mounting, but I'm not super adept at wiring up electrical items, so I'm hesitant...

Yes, the H is hardmount, the P is Portable. Same compressor. I had a 400H in my LR3, took about 40 minutes to air up four 31" tires on 18" wheels. My Jeep had a 450P with a 2 gallon air tank, took about 20 minutes to air up 35" tires on 16" wheels (massively more air volume than the LR3). Then I got smart and got an PowerTank. Takes about 2 minutes per tire, including removing the cap and checking pressure before and after, and reinstalling the cap. Refill the tank every few trips for $20.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Awesome input, thank you!!

RE: recovery points, there are 3 companies that make recovery points that bolt into the frame of the GX (Treaty Oak, Apex Overland and BBG) — was planning to get one of those choices.

Just will mention that not all recovery points are the same thing. I have an issue with factory and most aftermarket points that don't have a rating or when they do it's not meaningful. Lacking a rating means you have to guess and if I'm spending money there has to be a reason to (1) doubt the manufacturer and (b) trust the new part.

I personally trust the welded on hoops Toyota puts on the truck, at least up to a point. Since your truck I think has two of them using a bridle would be the simplest, low risk solution. There's several ways to do that but they'll all be something like this:




If you want a fancy red one ARB makes them for the GX/4Runner/Prado. Yours I think should be p/n 2821020 (right side) and 2821030 (left side). The nice thing about these is ARB tests and assigns a rating of 17,500 lbs with no caveats. My understanding is Australian rules might require engineering recovery points and I've seen videos of TJM doing testing with a fabricated subframe to validate designs. In this case they are expensive but met my criteria of being justifiable (I bought the one they sell for Tacoma which doesn't have the two loops as an option).

https://www.morris4x4center.com/arb-winch-recovery-point-right-side.html
https://www.morris4x4center.com/arb-winch-recovery-point-left-side.html


Compare to this, which carries no rating but appears to me to be similar in concept. Not identical, though having 4 bolts and partially wrapping the frame horn seems confidence inspiring.

https://www.apexoverland.com/shop-by-brand/Front-Recovery-Points-p111923535


This one is a thick hunk of steel double bolted that is said to be 10,000 lbs. But since their disclaimer says no side loading my guess is that's just a material strength calculation and not a comprehensive design or test value. I don't know if these are really much of an improvement over the welded hoops. I'd still use a bridle unless it was absolutely not possible with these anyway. It's never a bad idea if you can but with some points you use both because trusting one individually isn't possible.

https://www.treatyoakoffroad.com/product/gx460-5th-gen-4runner-recovery-point

 

[amongmany]

Just will mention that not all recovery points are the same thing. I have an issue with factory and most aftermarket points that don't have a rating or when they do it's not meaningful. Lacking a rating means you have to guess and if I'm spending money there has to be a reason to (1) doubt the manufacturer and (b) trust the new part.

I personally trust the welded on hoops Toyota puts on the truck, at least up to a point. Since your truck I think has two of them using a bridle would be the simplest, low risk solution. There's several ways to do that but they'll all be something like this:

View attachment 626030


If you want a fancy red one ARB makes them for the GX/4Runner/Prado. Yours I think should be p/n 2821020 (right side) and 2821030 (left side). The nice thing about these is ARB tests and assigns a rating of 17,500 lbs with no caveats. My understanding is Australian rules might require engineering recovery points and I've seen videos of TJM doing testing with a fabricated subframe to validate designs. In this case they are expensive but met my criteria of being justifiable (I bought the one they sell for Tacoma which doesn't have the two loops as an option).

https://www.morris4x4center.com/arb-winch-recovery-point-right-side.html
https://www.morris4x4center.com/arb-winch-recovery-point-left-side.html


Compare to this, which carries no rating but appears to me to be similar in concept. Not identical, though having 4 bolts and partially wrapping the frame horn seems confidence inspiring.

https://www.apexoverland.com/shop-by-brand/Front-Recovery-Points-p111923535


This one is a thick hunk of steel double bolted that is said to be 10,000 lbs. But since their disclaimer says no side loading my guess is that's just a material strength calculation and not a comprehensive design or test value. I don't know if these are really much of an improvement over the welded hoops. I'd still use a bridle unless it was absolutely not possible with these anyway. It's never a bad idea if you can but with some points you use both because trusting one individually isn't possible.

https://www.treatyoakoffroad.com/product/gx460-5th-gen-4runner-recovery-point

Excellent info, thank you!

 

[SDDiver5]

I had a knock off air compressor for about a year when I was in college. It worked great for blowing up a football but took me about 40 mins to air up all my tires. I ended up not using it for tires and would just go to the closest gas station and use their air.

Now that I am not a broke college student, I believe in buying once and buying right so I plan on getting myself a Viair or ARB compressor as a Xmas gift to me.

 

[huachuca]

Lots of good advice in the previous posts.

A shovel should be the first item in your recovery gear, especially if you're going to be travelling solo.

Recovery points - Not familiar enough with your vehicle to make a useful comment

Straps - I carry three (2" x 20') of a generic brand TOW straps (non-elastic w/sewn looped ends - no metal hooks). Mine get used and abused around the farm and don't last more than a couple of years before becoming too frayed to trust. These are useful when its necessary to move something slowly and incrementally. I also carry a Bubba Rope SNATCH strap which is great when there's plenty of room around both the vehicle being recovered and the one doing the tugging but it's elasticity doesn't provide much control over the distance an object is moved. To round it out, you should carry a 'tree saver' strap even if you don't have a winch. It can be used to form a bridle. A few 6" sections of a dowel (or broom handle) are useful when joining two or more straps (keeps the loops from becoming irreversibly bound together after tension).

Shackles - I carry both hard (3/4" pin) and soft. I'm old and its taken me some time to have confidence in the soft version but I'm coming around.

Gloves - Mechanix (leather palm inserts)

Recovery boards - Guess I'm not a real overlander as I've never owned a set.

Compressor - The Ironman you referenced is sold under multiple brands/models. I have the MV-90 version by SuperFlow. Its a much better unit than it's little brother the MV-50 and has done the job for 5-6 years with no complaints. Be aware the 5.65 CFM claim is at a negligible PSI rating; No way it flows that much at any meaningful PSI. No experience with the ViAir but the company has a good rep.

Deflators - Several similar choices for this if you want the type that removes and retains the valve core. Mine is by Boulder Tools; it does what it claims and the gauge is reasonably accurate. You should also add a quality tire repair kit and know how to use it.

Find some scrap 2x8's at a construction site and add a few 12" sections to your kit to use as a base for your jack.

 

[john61ct]

What is the authority that certifies such "schools"?

 

[Josie'slandcruiser]

IMO what size tires you have will influence what size of air compressor to use. For up to 31 inch tires the typical smaller 12 volt compressor works (if a bit slow.) For 35 inch or larger tires I prefer an engine mounted, belt driven compressor (York) or a CO2 bottle for fast refills.

Yes, to getting a sturdy recovery point and rear. A kinetic recovery (yank) strap and rated "D" shackles too.

Max Trax are expensive at $300 a pair but will work in sand, snow, mud, etc. and have a life time warranty.

Oh, and be sure to get a real shovel, like a "T" handle one from the local hardware store.

Good luck!