New Trailer Build Thread

[Jerkeejoe]

So I decided to build myself a trailer to pull behind my tundra and thought I'd document the process and expense here.

I checked out about 350,000,000 pictures of different trailers online and started to get an idea of what I want. I will be pulling the trailer off-road pretty frequently, but will likely not do any extreme off-roading with it. It will mostly be for camping and hunting with my family and friends. Honestly, I'm building it as much because I like building things as because I really want a trailer.

After looking for a while I decided on some basic criteria. The frame would be 4'x8' and would include a 1' fuel storage rack in front of the box, which would be 4' wide by 7' long by 4' tall; I'd use the same tires as are on my truck: Cooper STT Pro 295 75 18; I'd use a Timbren axleless suspension; the trailer will have a top rack to accommodate our RTT. And I decided on a basic shape. That's it. I figure I'll kind of wing it from there.

I took to my trusty iPad to do some initial drawings and came up with the attached drawings. I settled on 2x2x1/8 square tube for the main frame and 2.5x2.5x.25 square tube for the tongue and tongue supports.

Next step was purchasing steel, ordering suspension parts, and ordering wheels and tires. I had about 500 questions about the Timbren fitment, install, compatability, etc. so i called and spoke with a very helpful and knowledgeable tech who gave me the correct part number I needed. I also had to do some research and look around to find out how to be able to use my 5x150 lug pattern tundra wheels on a trailer. I found out I'd have to use an adapter, so I ordered the appropriate adapter from USAdapters after a quick and painless call explaining what I'm looking for.

Here is the parts list so far (with eTrailer.com parts numbers):

-Timbren Axle-Less Trailer Suspension System - 4" Lift Spindle - Regular Tires - 3,500 lbs - Item # ASR3500S06
-Trailer Hub and Drum Assembly - 3,500-lb E-Z Lube Axles - 10" Diameter - 5 on 4-1/2 - Item # AKHD-545-35-EZ-K
-Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Self-Adjusting - 10" - Right Hand - 3,500 lbs - Item # AKEBRK-35R-SA
-Electric Trailer Brake Assembly - Self-Adjusting - 10" - Left Hand - 3,500 lbs - Item # AKEBRK-35L-SA

I got the following wheels for really cheap on closeout from tirerack.com so I went with them. I wanted a decent positive offset to keep the wheels as close to the trailer body as possible given the need for the adapter which will add 1.25" to the wheel setup.

https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/WheelCloseUpServlet?target=runWheelSearch&initialPartNumber=3948950MF30BMF&wheelMake=Granite+Alloy&wheelModel=GV4&wheelFinish=Machined+w/Black+Accent&showRear=no&autoMake=Toyota&autoModel=Land+Cruiser&autoYear=2017&autoModClar=

As I sit here today typing this and awaiting delivery of parts, I'm still not sure that the suspension, hubs, brakes, spacers, and wheels and tires will all work together. Trying to figure all those things out without any experience with trailer builds and without any ability to be hands on before ordering was more difficult than passing the bar exam.

That's it for now. The steel is sitting in my garage and I'm going to start cutting and welding the frame components tonight. I'll post some update pics tomorrow.

Costs:
Suspension/hubs/brakes - $860
Wheels - $215
Steel - $250

 

[Jerkeejoe]

Parts are here.

 

[rudee13]

subbed!

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Maverick123]

curious to see the end result

 

[Jerkeejoe]

Was going to start cutting and welding the frame tonight, but ended up pressure washing my filthy welding table and baking a cake for my daughter’s birthday instead. I bake, wife decorates. Steel tomorrow.

 

[Jerkeejoe]

Some progress today. Got the base frame started. Cut the 2x2x1/8 square tube tolength using my cheapo Evolution cold cut saw. Bought it for around $150 at Home Depot a while back and have been absolutely happy with it. I’ve probably got a couple hundred cuts on it and the blade is still going strong. You can also see my top of the line patent pending metal shaving catcher set up behind the saw. (Piece of scrap beadboard sitting on a trash can leaning against the welding table.)

Also got the initial frame welding done. Clamped some rectangle tube on the joints to keep everything square while I tacked it all together. Was within 1/8” of square, so I’m calling it a win.

Fair warning that I am very much a beginner welder. Feel free to mock my ugly welds throughout this build thread. Because I want to make sure the frame stays solid I’m grinding down all of the frame welds to check penetration.

I should get the cross members all welded in tomorrow.

 

[Buffalobwana]

I have welding table envy.

 

[Buffalobwana]

Rather than grind down your welds, why don’t you post photos and see if someone can give you pointers. Polish it up with a cup brush on an angle grinder and they can look pretty nice.

Don’t know what you are using, stick or wire, gas or flux core, but sometimes flux core can be a bit “splattery” and ugly, but it works. I have fixed and built farm equipment with it. I built a set of hay forks with a 110v Lincoln using flux core that handles two big bales of alfalfa at once (that’s close to two tons).

Anyone who makes fun of your weld can go pound sand. Post it up. We were all beginners once.

 

[Jerkeejoe]

I'll post up some pics when I weld the cross members tonight or tomorrow. I'm using a Hobart 140 with solid wire and gas. A lot of the uglyness on these first welds came from messing with the settings to get the welder set up properly for the material. Other than that, the welds have at least all been solid. I learned from a buddy who does a lot of fabrication and he lovingly makes fun of my welds all the time. I'm definitely getting better though. Practice makes perfect.

And by the way, I believe within 1/8" of square over a 7'x4' frame is acceptable. Correct?

 

[Jerkeejoe]

I have welding table envy.

Built it myself! Just 2"x2" tube with a 1/2" plate top and locking casters. Was pretty cheap and easy and came out really nice. The hardest part was calling around to find a remnant piece of plate that was a good size.

 

[ottsville]

I'll post up some pics when I weld the cross members tonight or tomorrow. I'm using a Hobart 140 with solid wire and gas. A lot of the uglyness on these first welds came from messing with the settings to get the welder set up properly for the material.

And by the way, I believe within 1/8" of square over a 7'x4' frame is acceptable. Correct?

It's always good to take a few offcuts and weld them to get your settings correct. You can even cut across your welds and take a look at penetration.

If you are grinding your welds, it doesn't matter what they look like.

1/8" is close enough. Just rememberthat 1/8" if you go to square anything else up.

 

[Jerkeejoe]

Ask and ye shall receive. Pics of welds below.

Got two of the cross members welded on. Rooftop tent was delivered though so I have to stop welding for a bit to get the tent uncrated and opened up.

Should have the tongue and tongue supports welded on tonight. Start on the suspension tomorrow.

ETA: After welding the crossmembers in the frame is only 1/16 out of square on the diagonals.

 

[ottsville]

I am by no means an expert welder and am posting my "analysis" mostly to see if my thoughts are accurate when others weigh in.

Your flat weld looks good, but it likes like you sped up the gun movement about 1/3 of the way in. You can see where the weld gets narrower and it looks like your penetration might not be as good there. I would turn up the amperage a little but shoot for a gun speed about what you had around the middle of that weld.

Vertical welds are always a bit awkward. I think you need more heat and more gun speed. You may want to try and inverted "v" pattern with your gun.

 

[Jerkeejoe]

More progress today. Got the rest of the tongue cut and welded on. Also got the brakes, hubs, and adapters (to make the trailer accept 5x150 lug pattern) mounted on the timbren suspension. First time packing bearings with grease! Tons of fun.

Got the right side Timbren mounted afer welding on a piece of angle to add another mounting point. Since one side was mounted, I decided to test fit a wheel...way to much offset! The wheel hits the body of the suspension, meaning the wheels I have obviously won’t work.

So, I took a quick trip to discount tire to see what I could find out and it turns out the exact wheel and tire setup that I have on my truck will work perfectly on the trailer (with about a half inch to spare). So I went ahead and ordered the wheels and tires. I was hoping to save a few bucks on the wheels by ordering online, but now, by the time I return the wheels that dont fit, it’s costing me way more than if I had just not been a cheapskate in the first place. Lesson learned.

New wheels and tires along with temporary hitch will be here next week. I’ll have a rolling frame as soon as those arrive.

In the mean time I’m going to start on the wiring and add the front gas can/propane/water holder rack.



Here’s the angle I had to add to have another mounting point for the Timbren.



And the mounted suspension.





And for reference, here’s a pic of my truck showing the wheels and tires that will be on the trailer.

 

[Jerkeejoe]

Broke out the pressure washer today to degrease the frame and then put a couple coats of automotive undercoat on it. Wheels and tires should be here today so I'm hoping to have a rolling frame by the end of the day.



Got this Generac pressure washer not too long ago and really like it. For a little over $300 it's been a great buy.