New to me 99 Suburban: 5.7 vortec repairs

unabashedpraise

Adventurer


Something followed me home. The distributor cap and rotor must have been the ticket. It started right up, and drove with no issues. It definitely isn't as quick as my zj, but I think once I do some work, it will improve. Repair records indicate: rebuilt transmission and t case, rear drive shaft yoke @40k miles ago; ball joints, rebuilt rear brakes and lines, master cylinder, rear wheel bearings, brake flush, new radiator @6 months ago. And of course dist cap and rotor Monday.

First mod/repair:


After that I replaced the driver's inside and outside door handles.

Then the cleaning began.


Needless to say, I'll be cleaning for weeks. Going to rent a carpet cleaner. May get new carpet. Not sure it's worth it.

Looks like the intake is leaking oil out the front. Was also very low on oil.

Also found this:

Went ahead and replaced cap with new. Do you think this is a combo of dex and green? Definitely will need a very thorough flush. Maybe a professional should do it?

Not since my 1970 Dodge d100 sweptline when I was 16, have I had a vehicle with this must rust. Honestly not sure what to do about it.


Overall, I'm hoping $2500 was a good price for a dependable vehicle after a little more elbow grease.


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aardvarcus

Adventurer
Frame doesn't look eat up with rust, and I don't see a hole in the door, so it isn't nearly as bad as some I have seen drive by. On the door/rockers I would at least hit it with a wire wheel/sandpaper, rustoleum prime, and paint. That will at least freeze the issue in time, and you can decide if you want to do more extensive repairs or sheet metal replacement in the future.

On my 1994 k2500 Suburban I am fixing the carpet was in a bit worse shape than yours, I tried with a simple green shampooer/cleaner for several hours and it got clean but mine was stained more than it was dirty so it still was discolored. I ended up just ordering new vinyl floor from Rock Auto after seeing it would never really look clean, despite multiple passes, pretreatments, scrubbing, and cleaners. So if you just have dirt it should clean up fine, but if there is any grease, oil, or rust ground into the carpet don't expect it to look new.
 

yota_mota

New member
Looks like lmctruck.com might be your go-to website for duration of your rehab on that beast in addition to the junkyard. I've always wanted to do a Cummins swap on a burb like that. Good luck on your progress!!


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Ducky's Dad

Explorer
When you clean up that rust, use a rust converter or something like POR 15 before you prime and paint. If you don't convert the rust, any remaining specks will continue to eat steel under the new paint. Rust never sleeps.
 

unabashedpraise

Adventurer
The carpet is pretty rough all over. I guess they used it to haul rusty tools?? Also found dried chew spit all in the dash, console, and carpet. Looked like some idiot had a full cup in the upper cup holder up front and either hit something or slammed on the brakes. Disgusting.

Conversing with a guy now that has complete carpet, visors, and sound deadening all from lmc for $325. Said he paid over $450. Gonna see if he will go for $275. Who knows?!

After using por what's there best way to cover it? I like the current colors, but it may be easier to bed liner the bottom. Now sure how it will look.


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rayra

Expedition Leader
Bed liner's not a bad idea, especially if you go with replacement patch panels for the lower rust. Seconding the LMC Truck suggestion, they've served me well on my '85 C-10 for many years. There are a few trucks show here that have bedliner finishes, see GeronRacing's Sub and AA1PR's Yukon topic. The latter particularly as he was dealing with some terrible rust-out issues.
 

rayra

Expedition Leader
Looks like it was 'built on a friday', doesn't look like there was ever a bolt installed there. And there should have been. What about the other side? That is the rear transmission mount, is it not?
 

unabashedpraise

Adventurer
Looks like it was 'built on a friday', doesn't look like there was ever a bolt installed there. And there should have been. What about the other side? That is the rear transmission mount, is it not?
No bolt on either side. Rear trans mount.

It was rebuilt in 2014, soooooo...


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rayra

Expedition Leader
Yes, I think there should be bolts there. Most trans mounts are two bolts where those holes are and a single bolt on the centerline into the crossmember. I'm not intimately familiar with that mount, don't know its exact structure but it seems there must be something in there keeping in in place somehow for it to appear to be properly aligned now, 3yrs after a trans? rebuild.
You can see the rubber of the mount is splitting, and if the engine mounts alone have been taking the lateral stresses for three years, they likely need to re replaced as well.


eta

those tabs on the transmission case do not have thru-holes, do they? You're best best is hit a GM dealer for the replacement bolts and loctite them when you install them. I'm finding a couple topics elsewhere about the bolts coming loose and falling out. And I can't seem to find trans mount replacements that look anything like your picture.
 
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unabashedpraise

Adventurer
Wow that makes a big difference! Didn't have time to clean it up, was already late getting ready to leave.




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unabashedpraise

Adventurer
Spent a couple hours finishing the door lock repairs. It's nice to know that with the touch of a button I can secure it.
On a side note, these locks must have some torque! Three of them had broken the rivets. I only had some aluminum bolts lying around to repair them. Guess I'll see how long they hold.


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aardvarcus

Adventurer
You definitely need to put bolts in that transmission mount immediately if you haven't already, you can probably find some that will fit for now at a fastenal or tractor supply. Powertrain on these only mounts at three points, front two engine mounts and the transmission mount, so the front engine mounts which are rubber damped and have give are the only thing holding the powertrain, so I would assume your transmission and transfer case could move side to side or up a bit under load as you are driving which is not what you want. Also that transmission mount looks to need replaced.
 

unabashedpraise

Adventurer
New mount ordered. Went with the cheap anchor mount. I'm not a fan of the brand as I've had issues before. But it's inexpensive and I'll get faster.


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unabashedpraise

Adventurer
I'd be looking for head gaskets, just because oil is clean doesn't mean you have a failure.
Tested it using http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=406. Good news! Stayed true blue. Tested it twice even. I know this isn't 100%, but with no perceptible change in color I think I'll trust it. I've used this before! Guess I should find one with a known bad head to make sure it works!


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