New FWC Swift Shell Questions

[georgeofthedesert]

Hello,
I have a new Swift Shell I picked up on Thursday last week after waiting 18 months. I'm super pumped to start using it, but have some questions from folks that have a shell and have done some additions to the interiors.

1) Fridge - I ordered an Iceco 12v fridge that is going in one of three spots. The first thought is on the floor under the cab window, the second is on the side next to the stove (we have the stove/furnace) going wide along most of that side area, and the third is in the same spot the fridge would go the sticking out into the "hall way" next to the stove. With that how have folks mounted the fridges to either the floor or the side? I know most use D rings or eye bolts to strap the handles down, which I get and seems easy. However how were those D rings and/or eye bolts mounted/attached? Since I assume they screwed in I want to make sure I do it right, and I'm not making a bunch of holes in my new camper because of mistakes. For example did you look for the "studs" and anchor to the aluminum studs or just strew them in wherever they needed to be? Also I'm not sure how thick anything is, so what size screws did you use for that? Was there a mounting reason or concern that made you chose where you put it, for example the side has a piece of wood that you can screw into vs the floor where you are just going into the aluminum.

2) Fridge wiring - I have an open slot in the fuse panel/block that I am thinking of attaching a another 12v cigarette lighter and using that to plug the fridge into. Has anyone else done it like that before? Am I better off just making the 12v cable go straight from the fridge to the fuse block and not do the additional connector? I want a fuse between the fridge and the battery and I don't want to use the 12v connector under the stove since that will stick out. So I'm really really trying to use the fuse block. If you ran the power cable from the fridge to the fuse block area, where did you run that cable to get it in there?

3) Screen door - On the screen door I think the plastic sliding part or the stationary clear plastic part is too short, I'm not sure which one is though. When I close the slider all the way there is about an inch gap between the end of the sliding piece and the stationary piece. I can stick my fingers and most of my hand straight through it. Has anyone else had this issue. I called and emailed the dealer I bought from on Friday but haven't heard back. The dealer is like 3 hours away so it's not super easy to just drop by and be like what's up with this.

4) Storage - We might have 1-4 weeks between trips. The plan is to disconnect the fridge on those gaps, however I wasn't sure if I should cut all of the power with that main power shutoff push/pull knob thing. I feel like if it was longer than 4 weeks yeah turn everything off, but if it's only going to be 1-4 I'm not sure if it matters

 

[Stan@FourWheel]

Hello

If you send me an e-mail to . . . Stan@fourwh.com

I can probably answer a couple of those questions above, and attach sample pictures to give you ideas.

Welcome to the FWC Family !

Tks -- Stan

 

[ramblinChet]

My personal suggestion is for you to take a few trips in your rig to see what works best for your application. Keep in mind you can secure the fridge and gear on the floor up near the bulkhead and then place it in position once you arrive to camp.

For my application, I wanted to position the refrigerator on the floor spaced a few inches from the bulkhead. This was essentially between the axles and along the centerline of the vehicle. In this position, the movement of the pitch and roll of the unit and contents are minimized. You can find additional information here regarding how I mounted it.


It was important to mount the unit low and a few inches from the bulkhead so I was able to fully open the top and remove the baskets with the top down. This permits me to pull over and grab a cool drink, or stop off and quickly load groceries, etc. I took advantage of the "wasted space" behind the refrigerator and use it to secure three RotopaX two gallon water GEN 2. Again, keeping the heaviest additions as low as possible and near the center of gravity of the vehicle. I ran my 12 Vdc wires directly to the fuse block.


For storage of clothes, dry goods, etc., I have long used Zarges K470 aluminum cases. If necessary, I am able to remove all four cases along with my refrigerator in just a few minutes time. You can find additional information here regarding the installation of my K470s.


There are so many options available and no two are ever identical after a few weekends of exploration. Take your time, move things around, see how others have arranged their interiors. If you only travel occasionally on the weekends, just about anything works fine. If you travel full-time, the smallest of details can leave you with a clumsy and inefficient system.

And don't be afraid to spend time camping in your driveway or backyard. Much can be learned with a safety net only a few feet away.

 

[NikonRon]

I've mounted my ARB fridge up on the side and it works well there, best possible place for it for my rig.

 

[georgeofthedesert]

My personal suggestion is for you to take a few trips in your rig to see what works best for your application. Keep in mind you can secure the fridge and gear on the floor up near the bulkhead and then place it in position once you arrive to camp.

For my application, I wanted to position the refrigerator on the floor spaced a few inches from the bulkhead. This was essentially between the axles and along the centerline of the vehicle. In this position, the movement of the pitch and roll of the unit and contents are minimized. You can find additional information here regarding how I mounted it.
View attachment 762214

It was important to mount the unit low and a few inches from the bulkhead so I was able to fully open the top and remove the baskets with the top down. This permits me to pull over and grab a cool drink, or stop off and quickly load groceries, etc. I took advantage of the "wasted space" behind the refrigerator and use it to secure three RotopaX two gallon water GEN 2. Again, keeping the heaviest additions as low as possible and near the center of gravity of the vehicle. I ran my 12 Vdc wires directly to the fuse block.
View attachment 762215

For storage of clothes, dry goods, etc., I have long used Zarges K470 aluminum cases. If necessary, I am able to remove all four cases along with my refrigerator in just a few minutes time. You can find additional information here regarding the installation of my K470s.
View attachment 762216

There are so many options available and no two are ever identical after a few weekends of exploration. Take your time, move things around, see how others have arranged their interiors. If you only travel occasionally on the weekends, just about anything works fine. If you travel full-time, the smallest of details can leave you with a clumsy and inefficient system.

And don't be afraid to spend time camping in your driveway or backyard. Much can be learned with a safety net only a few feet away.

Thanks a ton for the photos. That's where I have been landing on keeping the fridge permanently and never thought of the rotopax behind the fridge.

For the Swift Shell that seems to be the best spot for it, but I'm not going to make anything permenant for a bit. With that is your fridge attached to the floor somehow? If so how is it attached? My plan is to put an anchor point on the floor under each side and just strap it from the side handles to the floor, with a thinnish piece of grippy rubber under the fridge to keep it from slipping even more. With that I'm finding all sorts of documentation for the entire process of mounting stuff to the interior but none of them mention how anchor points are being attached? If I go with D-Rings on the floor as the anchor point, how are the D-Rings attached to the floor? Do I need to locate the aluminum frame to mount to, is the floor all wood and I can just use a short wood screw as good enough, do I need to drill all the way through the floor and use a nut/bolt to attach the anchor, is there a rivet that's better (and if so what size rivet would work), etc..

lol most of the things I've found online spend an odd amount of time going over how to use ratchet straps and why they used the straps on the handles but never touch on how they added their anchor points. It's always, I added these d-rings and use these ratchet straps on the handles (followed by either changing topic or going into the straps themselves). So I'm trying to narrow down how to affix the anchor points so when I'm ready to commit to a location I can just go at it.


-George

 

[georgeofthedesert]

I've mounted my ARB fridge up on the side and it works well there, best possible place for it for my rig.
View attachment 762798

That's other location I'm looking at, but with the Swift my 45l fridge takes up almost the entire side. The debate is to put it up there and build a storage under the cab window or have the fridge under the cab window and use that whole side for storage. As I asked the person that mentioned they have under the cab window, how are your straps attached? I only see one in the photo, I assume there is a one going towards the wall out of view. How did you attach the straps to your side ledge thing (lol I apologize I have no clue what those side steps/flat areas are called so I have been referring to them as the side ledges)? Do you have the back tied down or does just having the front work well enough since it's up against a wall?

-George

 

[ramblinChet]

One of the many reasons I selected the National Luna refrigerator is because they have a wonderful mounting system available. There are many nice units out there but the companies totally drop the ball when it comes to mounting. Ratchet straps on plastic handles is a recipe for disaster which does not really secure your load plus it looks amateurish.

Here is the solution provided by National Luna. This plate bolts down to your floor using lag screws and provides the ability to quickly install and remove your unit while simultaneously offering the most secure attachment method.


These are the quick disconnect pins. Pull out, rotate, lock in place, and remove unit.


These are the machined mounts which attach to the underside of the unit.


Here is my unit installed - no straps, no weak handles, no problems:

 

[NikonRon]

That's other location I'm looking at, but with the Swift my 45l fridge takes up almost the entire side. The debate is to put it up there and build a storage under the cab window or have the fridge under the cab window and use that whole side for storage. As I asked the person that mentioned they have under the cab window, how are your straps attached? I only see one in the photo, I assume there is a one going towards the wall out of view. How did you attach the straps to your side ledge thing (lol I apologize I have no clue what those side steps/flat areas are called so I have been referring to them as the side ledges)? Do you have the back tied down or does just having the front work well enough since it's up against a wall?

-George

I used the ARB mounting tabs and secured them with wood screws into the 3/4" plywood of the camper. It never moves.

 

[Sparse Gray Hackle]

George, the floor pack is all wood. D rings or footman loops will let you secure gear as needed.

 

[georgeofthedesert]

George, the floor pack is all wood. D rings or footman loops will let you secure gear as needed.

Have you attached things like the d-rings or footman loops to the floor? If you did, was it just a standard wood screw that you used? Also what size of screw did you use?

-George

 

[Sparse Gray Hackle]

I have installed footman loops with flathead screws. Lengths vary with the thickness of the wood.