The Gladiator is on 35’s.TFL just posted this video; a few notes to keep in mind when watching:
- The Gladiator Rubicon is described in another build video. It’s twin-locked with a 2.5” Lift (maybe 2”, I’m not 100% sure) with at least 33” tires (Factory tires are 32”, I believe).
- The Defender in the video is a First Edition. It’s totally unlocked, and the only mods are a set of KO2s (Nothing fancy, same size as stock just better grip) and a set of lifting rods which, as you’ll hear in the video, “trick” the suspension into thinking it’s on-road height, when it’s actually lifted.
I’m pretty impressed with how well the Defender did. I know it’s just one video, but that Gladiator with all it’s bells and whistles is supposed to be the bees knees off road, and it’s being compared with a Defender that isn’t really properly set up, but the Defender walked up the hill with minimal fuss. Of course, the old Defender — Which is a 90, locked, on 36” tires — did far better, but that’s a highly built machine relative to the others and one would expect it to do so.
I also am curious about the lift rods - I understand what they do, but I don’t fully understand what elements determine how the Defender uses it’s TC system. The TC system seems so good that I wonder if ‘tricking’ it with lift rods may actually make it perform worse than if it’s just left alone — from what I can tell, the lifters make it ride at ‘off road‘ height all the time, but the same height and clearance could be achieved with a button push, right? Unless the lifters allow you to go to max off road height with the button, and then they add an additional bit of clearance? I don’t think that’s the case in this video but I don’t know, Does anyone with more experience with this kind of a mod/suspension system care to weigh in?