NAS LR3 build with an overseas twist

T.J.

New member
150K seems like a solid interval for preventative suspension maintenance, particularly with big trips planned. Anyone headed to the Uwaharrie Safari in April?
 

latarheel

latarheel
That's an option, but given age of components and the way they tend to be interdependent-not to mention my own inspection from being on the lift, it's about time to replace the consumables known as LCAs thus I'm about 99% certain that will already be on the list.

Since we're nearing 150k, with big trips this summer, I'd rather knock out a suspension refresh than piecemeal it.




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latarheel

latarheel
My mechanic just replaced LCA ‘s on my LR4 @ 75k as they were rattling on bumps and expansion joints and recommended uppers @ 120k


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Ray_G

Explorer
Makes sense, my LCAs were done at 80k. That I've nearly gotten to 150 on the UCA's is good enough.

Will start with the front, and then likely do the back. I do wonder if the coils change the wear/tear on this at all.
 
My uppers and lowers I think I did at around 90-100k and did them and everything else up front at once so the alignment was square right out of the gate and reset the clock on all components at once.

I don't think the coils matter, I honestly believe that replacing worn parts in the suspension and with part new with remaining old causes the old to wear out faster and the new ones slowly behind them. But this is purely my opinion from dynamic components on aircraft so I stick with what I know.....lol
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
That's an option, but given age of components and the way they tend to be interdependent-not to mention my own inspection from being on the lift, it's about time to replace the consumables known as LCAs thus I'm about 99% certain that will already be on the list.

Since we're nearing 150k, with big trips this summer, I'd rather knock out a suspension refresh than piecemeal it.
When my fronts were shot couple summers ago around 130k? I decided to also do the rears. Well, even though I didn't feel a massive "must replace now", once out, there was almost nothing left of the rear control arm bushings. I did all 8 arms.

I am the type to want the whole system to be tight again so I also replaced:
-sway bar bushings front and rear, end links and toe in the rear
-8 control arms. Up front I used the Meyle HD lowers for their version of upgraded/larger joint.
-all 4 rotors with EBC 17" size and of course a new caliper carrier for that size rotor, new ebc pads, new fluid of course.
-new struts up front
-strut spacers - I mention this because I've wondered how cool would it be to use the spacer on top of the steel spring struts....?

This is ALL DIY-able. There are a few tricks though even from a size and/or specific shape of tool that can make it way easier. For example the front sway bar driver side uppoer bolt is a PITA but there are 2 things that can make it snappy easy.

You have interior space, I only had the "never rains in Seattle during the summer" driveway due to garage ceiling clearance too low.
 

Ray_G

Explorer
When my fronts were shot couple summers ago around 130k? I decided to also do the rears. Well, even though I didn't feel a massive "must replace now", once out, there was almost nothing left of the rear control arm bushings. I did all 8 arms.

I am the type to want the whole system to be tight again so I also replaced:
-sway bar bushings front and rear, end links and toe in the rear
-8 control arms. Up front I used the Meyle HD lowers for their version of upgraded/larger joint.
-all 4 rotors with EBC 17" size and of course a new caliper carrier for that size rotor, new ebc pads, new fluid of course.
-new struts up front
-strut spacers - I mention this because I've wondered how cool would it be to use the spacer on top of the steel spring struts....?

This is ALL DIY-able. There are a few tricks though even from a size and/or specific shape of tool that can make it way easier. For example the front sway bar driver side uppoer bolt is a PITA but there are 2 things that can make it snappy easy.

You have interior space, I only had the "never rains in Seattle during the summer" driveway due to garage ceiling clearance too low.
Sadly I don't really have the interior space easily-my townhouse's garage is consumed by the S1, the RTT, and two motorycles. In theory I could remove them to bring the LR3 in but even thinking about that makes my head hurt. The workshop I have easiest access to is in WV, so about 2 hours away.

The more insidious variable is time. That I'm find I simply don't have.

Thus this got outsourced; ultimately what came to pass was LCA bushings on the front were going (well, one was) and thus those got replaced with RRS arms-and the tie rods were causing the wobble; so those all got replaced wholesale too.
Worth the $ to just have it done by the local indy that I trust.
 
I kept all my OG control arms and plan to cut the old out bushing and stuff poly bushings in them for the next go around and will probably do the same if the current sets ever need replacement. I find myself keeping almost all original parts to hopefully repurpose.
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
150K seems like a solid inter
150K seems like a solid interval for preventative suspension maintenance, particularly with big trips planned. Anyone headed to the Uwaharrie Safari in April?
val for preventative suspension maintenance, particularly with big trips planned. Anyone headed to the Uwaharrie Safari in April?
Where are you located? I'm in NC right now. I've never done the rally but i've poked around in Uwharrie (correct spelling ;)
 

Jwestpro

Explorer
I kept all my OG control arms and plan to cut the old out bushing and stuff poly bushings in them for the next go around and will probably do the same if the current sets ever need replacement. I find myself keeping almost all original parts to hopefully repurpose.
And Ray, we need to build some long travel control arms and axles, etc. Could be so awesome ;)
 

Ray_G

Explorer
I kept all my OG control arms and plan to cut the old out bushing and stuff poly bushings in them for the next go around and will probably do the same if the current sets ever need replacement. I find myself keeping almost all original parts to hopefully repurpose.
I kept the arms this time around for that very purpose too.
Where are you located? I'm in NC right now. I've never done the rally but i've poked around in Uwharrie (correct spelling ;)
I do wish I could get to the safari in April, missing URE right now-mainly for the people-and the coffee at Uwharrie Mercantile.
And Ray, we need to build some long travel control arms and axles, etc. Could be so awesome ;)
Concur, I'd really like to see some more adjustable coilovers...that would be nice.
Who is your trusted Indy shop? I’m in Alexandria.
So it isn't a Land Rover specific shop, but check out Lincolnia Automotive, I have been using them for years for all kinds of work. They don't care if you supply your own parts, don't overcharge, and have a following in the surrounding area that-to me-is illustrative of a shop that cares about its relationships with people. Tell Marzi the guy (or his wife) with all the Rovers sent you, and he and Castro (the head mech) will take care of you. Mind you if its something electrical, I'd use the dealer-but anything that is hardware goes to them.
r-
Ray
 

Ray_G

Explorer

When they say get an alignment after control arms and such...there is a reason.


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Ray,

That is a great plug for why I say the suspension components should "ALL" be done at once! At a minimum FRONTS or BACKS as a pair and complete component set (UPPER?LOWER). Not saying the alignment will never come in without doing such, but your print shows how out of wack these components get when they are worn.

Thanks for the info!
 

SHS14

Member
Did you consider using poly bushes? I’ve used them on previous cars and they definitely last forever and are tighter, but they add NVH also. I’m at 60k and wondering if I need to start saving up for suspension refresh.
 
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