My CAT-1 project in progress

[scottswierenga]

I spent a good portion of last year conceiving, designing, planning, and beginning the build up of my first Convertible Adventure Trailer (CAT-1) and here is what I have got so far.

A used 4x8 Carry-On trailer that came with the following features:
1-7/8th" Hitch
2x8 timber decking trailer floor with two D-Rings and a Motorcycle Wheel Chock mounted on it
Factory tailgate (& hinges) removed
2000lb curved axle with 5x4.5" hubs
Slipper Springs
Factory 12" wheels
Factory taillights, side-marker lamps, and 4 Pin wiring harness
Factory swing-away tongue jack stand w/foot

Recently completed trailer modifications:
Deleted the d-rings & wheel chock
Deleted the tiny factory fenders
Over Axle Conversion w/new perches
31-ish" tires on 16" wheels
3" wheel spacers to fit the new wheel/tires combo
Wiring Harness repairs & new bulbs

Proposed future trailer modifications still in Research & Design stage
4-corner adjustable or stabilizer jacks
Additional/supplemental trailer lights
Large Fenders

On top of the trailer will be mounted the 4'x8'x36"T cargo box which is under construction at the moment. The box features include:
1/2" Ply floor & Top
3/4" Ply sides, front, & back
2x4 skeletal framed interior
A swing-away, removable, "Tablegate" on lift-off hinges. It will receive folding or removable legs mounted on it. (Open, remove, deploy legs, and abra-ca-dabra!! 4' x 3' table space!)
Hand Fit aluminum trim work from 1/2" and 3/4" U Channel
The box top will be removable in it's entirety, giving me the usage option as a stake bed trailer with sidewalls
Box top will get two 6' cross bars made from Unistrut to serve two purposes, haul up to 3 kayaks, and act as lifting points to remove the top
Above and to the rear of the tires as the box sits on the trailer, will be the two spare tires
The method (and location) of mounting the 11# LP Tank has yet to be determined
Shovel & Ax mounts likely on the front or passenger side
Quite certain an access hatch should be added to the drivers side of the box towards the front
Flirting with the idea of filling that hatch with a custom built slide out kitchen feature

That's about where it is all at right now. I still have lots of little ideas floating around inside my brain for various things, and I am pleased with how it's all coming together.

One question for you.
I think the floor of the trailer box should have some kind of covering on it and not just raw/sealed/painted plywood. I envision it taking a light beating over the years from tossing things in, sliding things out, and likely getting wet things put inside on occasion. What options would you recommend? Single piece vinyl flooring, a sacrificial floor of 1/4" plywood, just paint it??
I ask for your input.

 

[old_CWO]

given that you are building with an eye towards utility use as well as dedicated adventure trailer (good idea), I vote sacrificial floor. Exterior rated plywood is cheap. Soak in a couple coats of boiled linseed oil and give her hell. When/if it gets goobered up in a few years, toss and replace.

For what you are describing perhaps consider 1x2 skeleton, 1/2 ply walls and 3/8 for floor and lid. That should be plenty stout if glued and screwed well while shedding a good bit of weight and cost.

If you haven't seen them, look into Explorer Box trailers. The builder's guide available for those might help you with ideas and construction methods. Lots of really clever home built plywood adventure trailers on that web site.

 

[scottswierenga]

I've not worked with wood oils before. Would any of it sluff off onto fabrics of gear put into the trailer? (Tent bags, backpacks, life jackets, etc)
I'd hate for things to potentially get oil stained up.

The photo you see was taken prior to mounting the box front and prepping some trim work for it. I considered 2x2 for the internals, but then I checking it out when I went to purchase materials. I found the 2x2 pine to have far too much flex in it and I was uncomfortable using it. I was worried it did not have enough rigidity to not all come apart when heading down rough roads or trails. I chose to sacrifice weight for durability.

I will certainly look into the Explorer Box Trailers you mentioned. Thanks for the heads up on that one.

 

[old_CWO]

Boiled linseed oil is a really old school wood finish. It was and is still used for furniture finishing, tool handles, gun stocks, etc. I have been using it on low buck applications for years and never noticed any problems with transfer unless significantly over applied. It can get sticky if you glob it on and don't wipe it down. One good trick is to thin the first couple coats with 50-25% mineral spirits so it soaks in faster. Obviously modern finishes can be better but the price to value on good old BLO is hard to beat. Smells good too - like your granddad's wood shop. Because, well, he was probably using it.

 

[Bonsai4youbyken]

I wanna see pix now

 

[scottswierenga]

Here is the photos I have taken to this point