My Camping / Rooftop Tent Trailer Build

JKChad

Observer
Well, as camping season approaches, the trailer build/evolution continues. I've been tinkering with it a little over the last few weeks, I moved the rack legs back to better support the majority of the weight. That prompted me to finally bite the bullet and order some 150lb/lift linear actuators!! That has snowballed, with the wife's approval at that!, with the buildout of the first phase of a dedicated 12v system for the trailer. You know, because you can't run a linear actuators without it. Lol.. That's snowballed some other projects as well.

The 12v system will be comprised of the following:
- Qty= 2 - 6v GC2 (golf cart) batteries w/215ah capacity - I opted for the sam's club, Duracell, $89.98 versions.
- Victron blue smart 120vac to 12v/15amp dc charger with bluetooth monitoring - this will be my shore power charger, a dc to dc will be added at some point as well.
- Blue Sea: Battery cut off switch, 12 circuit fuse block, bus bar (for grounds), 12 position terminal
- 1 Bussman 80 amp circuit breaker
- 1 premade 4 switch panel with voltage display
- 1 Fergelli 4 channel RF controller, this will allow the actuators to be controlled by remote
- 1 Fergelli 30 amp spdt rocker switch - this will be the specifically for the actuators.
- Temco 2awg wire for the bridging the 2 6v batteries in series
- Temco 4awg wire for the power/ground to the circuit breaker and ground bus bar
- Temco ring terminals for all the heavy gauge connections
- Amp double crimp ring, spade, and splice connectors for all the 10awg and up wiring
- various brands of 3:1 adhesive lined and double walled shrink tube
- appropriate relay's for powering the actuators
- I picked picked up a sheet of .125" ABS plastic to make a mounting surface for all the main electronics to mount to.
- 2 Battery boxes for the batteries, with acid absorption matts.
- There will also be a secondary electrical box that I mount to the rack, under the tent, to feed power to the inside of the tent, a full length awning led, leds in the rack that light up the cargo area, and LED strips I will be installing into the tent base that overhangs(where the annex connects to)

So as of yesterday, I have pretty much all the parts in. So, this is what I'm trying to accomplish by the first week of April.
-Finish rack leg relocation; just need to finish drilling some holes to get them 100% secured
-Rework the rack legs to accept mounts for the linear actuators. I'll be removing the spring loaded pop pins to give clearance and remove the need to hold the pins open during usage. I'm also going to potentially leave the gas strut in place, since they're not in the way. That's still TBD.
-Build out the 12v system. I'm still on the fence of weather I will put this all in the front storage box, batteries in the cargo area and electronics in the front storage area, or build out an enclosure in the front of the main cargo box, on the drivers side, to house the batteries and electronics, with an access door coming through the side panel of the trailer..
-I will be converting the trailer hubs to 5x5 bolt pattern. I already have the new hubs, matching wheels for our Jeep and spidertrax 1.5" wheel spacers to allow the matching wheels to clear the grease caps. I'm doing this for a few reasons; free up room for the batteries/electronics, try and cut some weight, and eliminate the need for a trailer spare(i'll be able to use the spare from the jeep). I Just need to get some tires, going with 285/70r17 to match the jeep size,but likely not the same exact tire. I also will also being ordering a new axle tube, I need it to be roughly 3" narrower to make up for the wheel spacers. I'm doing this to keep the trailer track width matching the Jeep.
-Install new leaf springs and shackles, current springs are the originals from 30+ years ago. They're a little worn out.

If time allows,
-build side steps for the trailer
-install all the appropriate side marker lights, need the steps to do that.
-Install xprite leds rock lights under the trailer for easier night time setup, which happens more than we care to admit, and to give some night time ambient lighting.

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JKChad

Observer
Progress has been made. Current axle has been converted over to 5x5 hubs. I ran into an issue that my spidertrax spacer center bore was was to small to fit over the trailer hub. Did some measuring and figured out that a 2 3/4 whole saw would give me about 1mm of clearance over the thickest part of the hub. So I carefully, and as accurately as I could, drilled out the center of the spacer on my drill press. Since the spacers and wheels are lug centric, I feel like everything should work just fine. Hit the spacers with a little paint and you can barely tell. I might suggest to anyone going this route; reach out to a wheel spacer manufacturer and see about having a custom spacer made. I would definitely go that route next time around.

I also got my new trailer tires, 285/70r17 Pathfinder AT's, mounted of the factory jeep wheels. I will be adjusting the fender to cover the tire properly for now. I will likely order another bare axle tube from dexter, that's narrowed about 2.5.3" to pull the wheels/tires back in closer to the frame.
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Spanna 53

Member
I am in Australia and haven't seen spacers used like you guys in the States we generally get a wider axle to suit as by fitting a spacer I feel it puts more load on the smaller outer wheel bearing our local steel and hard wear store has a large range of trailer parts from couplings ,springs ,axles brakes etc and does custom folding of tub body bits so I hadn't even thought of buying a trailer in a kit form till I started to follow this forum .ijust dream up the next project and go around with my shopping list and drawing and bring home enough bits to get under way and pick up any special bits a couple of days later good luck Ross
 

JKChad

Observer
Could you get a custom axle and do without the spacers?
My current axle width is very close to the same track width as the jeep. Unfortunately, the spacers are needed to allow the hub grease cap room to tuck behind the center bore of the jeep wheel. The center bore of the factory jeep wheel is about 2-3mm to small for the grease cap to poke through. So, I would have to buy aftermarket wheels, most have a larger center bore than factory, to clear. I would likely still run into issue with an aftermarket center cap not clearing. So buying 7-8 new wheels, to not need spacers and have everything match isn't in the mod budget right now. Lol.

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JKChad

Observer
I am in Australia and haven't seen spacers used like you guys in the States we generally get a wider axle to suit as by fitting a spacer I feel it puts more load on the smaller outer wheel bearing our local steel and hard wear store has a large range of trailer parts from couplings ,springs ,axles brakes etc and does custom folding of tub body bits so I hadn't even thought of buying a trailer in a kit form till I started to follow this forum .ijust dream up the next project and go around with my shopping list and drawing and bring home enough bits to get under way and pick up any special bits a couple of days later good luck Ross
A 1.5" spacer plus a factory jeep wheel creates the same offset as most commonly used aftermarket wheels, around 4.5-4.75" back spacing. So the leveraging effect wouldn't be much different than running an aftermarket wheel. You definitely have to be careful with spacers. The bolts holding the spacer to the hub have had loctite applied, torqued to spec, and paint marked for easy monitoring. I also use a trusted brand, spidertrax. I have ran them on 2 different Jeeps for close to a decade with over 100k miles, combined. Running them on my trailer that only weights about 25-30% of my jeep, should be just fine.

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jwiereng

Active member
I don’t doubt the mechanical soundness of the spacers and assume they are installed properly.

Would not a proper sized axle eliminate the need and cost of the spacers?

I recently had a custom axle build with 52 inch spring centers and 72 inch hub face for $130 Canadian loonies. 6 on 5.5” hubs for $32 each so I can run Toyota FJ wheels on trailer. I think a pair of spacers is priced in the same price ballpark.
 

JKChad

Observer
I don’t doubt the mechanical soundness of the spacers and assume they are installed properly.

Would not a proper sized axle eliminate the need and cost of the spacers?

I recently had a custom axle build with 52 inch spring centers and 72 inch hub face for $130 Canadian loonies. 6 on 5.5” hubs for $32 each so I can run Toyota FJ wheels on trailer. I think a pair of spacers is priced in the same price ballpark.
See my first response above. The axle is proper width now. We want to run the factory jeep wheels that match our jeep. You can't run the factory wheels without spacer due to a clearance issue with the trailer axle grease cap. I had matching wheels for my Tahoe prior to these. The tahoe/Silverado wheel has a huge center bore and cleared the grease cap without issue. I built the trailer before we had our jeep. So I spec'ed the first axle I had made to run hubs with the GM/Toyota 6x5.5 lug pattern. Finally got around to swap the hubs to match the jeep but had to go the spacer route due to what I mentioned above.

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JKChad

Observer
Sorry I missed the details about grease cap clearance. Speed reading is not good for me.
No worries, I'm always a bit long winded.. I'm over here all geekin out on stuff that most don't care about.. lol

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JKChad

Observer
I've been working like crazy to get some of the projects I want completed before our trip next month. here's a few updates

Actuators mounted
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Mocking up my fuse block/relay panel.
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Built a battery tray.
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Formed the actual fuse block/relay panel out of abs plastic and got all the components attached, wired, labeled, and bench tested.
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More to come I'm the next post.
 

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JKChad

Observer
This afternoon I knocked a few more items on my never ending list.

Figured out how I wanted to mount the battery tray and got it painted.
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Next up I got my battery kill switch mounted along with my 120v ac power pass through connector installed for the battery charger.
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After that I started on my switch panel that will be mounted in a slim outdoor electrical outlet cover on the exterior of the passenger side of the tool box.
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I have figured out exactly where I want to mount it but it'll be in this general area.
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I plan to have the wiring completed over the next few days for the actuators, rock lights, and all the lights and power that will be up in or on the rack and tent.
 

JKChad

Observer
I wasn't tired after I got my son laid down for bed. So, out to shed I went! Got my switch panel and the enclosure finished and ready to wire up. Tomorrow I will figure out exactly where I want to mount it and get it wired up and ready to plug into the panel. Then it's just a matter of pulling some wires on the trailer for the actuators and lights and this system will be ready to go.
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